And, as previously stated, use a properly fitting oil filter cup wrench. Its a necessity on the R1100/R1150 motors.
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oil filter change
- Thread starter RICH7196
- Start date
And, as previously stated, use a properly fitting oil filter cup wrench. Its a necessity on the R1100/R1150 motors.
gsaddict
Pepperfool
FWIW
I tighten 5/8 to 3/4 turn after oiled gasket contact.
Never had a leak in 40+ years
Never had a stuck filter when I went to remove.
I own 5 calibrated torque wrenches.
Edit: I've seen more issues with larger range torque wrenches being used on the bottom end of their range.
1 wrench will not reliably cover all ranges.
They should be stored set at 5% of their range and calibration checked periodically.
I tighten 5/8 to 3/4 turn after oiled gasket contact.
Never had a leak in 40+ years
Never had a stuck filter when I went to remove.
I own 5 calibrated torque wrenches.
Edit: I've seen more issues with larger range torque wrenches being used on the bottom end of their range.
1 wrench will not reliably cover all ranges.
They should be stored set at 5% of their range and calibration checked periodically.
lee
Debbie's Servant
Same with a Brick, the filter is inside the sump.
rich
#37829
And with two full turns on the install he is going to need a pretty stout cup wrench. I think I'd be removing it now and replacing it while it is still fresh and recently installed. I don't know if that would help or not, but still, 2 full turns...... oofta.
I'm actually surprised something didn't get stripped out at that point.
Nothing about 2 full turns. As it was clarified later in the thread, I guess he could of said a couple of twists
2 full turns would have been quite a different result.
OM
rich
#37829
Nothing about 2 full turns. As it was clarified later in the thread, I guess he could of said a couple of twists
2 full turns would have been quite a different result.
OM
Oops, reading closer he says hand tightened and then 1 full turn. (the sun wasn't up yet, my bad)
Oops, reading closer he says hand tightened and then 1 full turn. (the sun wasn't up yet, my bad)
It's tough to decipher the actual going's on through the typed word. A while back I (last resort) air-chisled an oil filter off a Chevy pickup. I should have taken a picture of what was left of the filter before I was called
OM
Oil change today...I hamfistedly put my filter on too tight and tried to back it off and couldn't - the tool just skipped along. I saw this post and took a piece of sandpaper and lined the inside of the tool and it gripped better and came right off. I would have never thought of that had I not seen your post.
Firm contact plus half a turn might be hand tight depending on the grip you have. I do want to see somebody install a filter on an R1100 or R1150 using hands without tools. Best of luck.
I do tighten hand but do use oil filter socket that I used to remove filter
pglaves
#13338
One big problem riders have with oil filters is filter wrenches that almost fit but not quite. For example, if you have a classic K bike or an Oilhead and use OEM filters you will not find a properly fitting filter wrench at a local auto parts store. The filter flutes are different. The one that really fits is made by Hazet in Europe and is a beefy aluminum forged tool, not stamped out of sheet metal. I am not sure of the later models.
Last edited:
lee
Debbie's Servant
lee
Debbie's Servant
Ditto, except the "bought mine in 1988" part.
The stamped steel ones are fine until you run into an uncooperative filter. Then you need the one Lee and Mr. Glaves reference.
I see you can buy one on Amazon for $30. I don't know what it costs at a dealer.
Edit: Looks like it's cheaper at a dealer, $26.15
https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsDetails.aspx?source=catalog&diagram=ST_11_4_650
Cyclenutz.com is an MOA advertiser and sells a very nice aluminum wrench:
https://www.cyclenutz.com/BMW-Universal-Oil-Filter-Wrench_p_227.html
Works great!
https://www.cyclenutz.com/BMW-Universal-Oil-Filter-Wrench_p_227.html
Works great!
Attachments
Maybe some of you can help this New Member-
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?97714-2012-R1200R-Damaged-Oil-Filter-Spigot-Mount-Stud
Looks like a toughie.
OM
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?97714-2012-R1200R-Damaged-Oil-Filter-Spigot-Mount-Stud
Looks like a toughie.
OM
BTW there are some pretty good aftermarket oil filters out there that have a hex fitting on the bottom — 17mm I believe — that make it very easy to install and remove the filter with your normal wrenches.
Also, might I suggest, that you open up the filter and take a look to see what’s accumulating in there. Even use a little magnet to drag through the folds in the filter. If there’s crud send the oil sample — that you should have taken as it drained from the crankcase during your oil change — to a testing lab like Blackstone (there are others) for analysis. Usually about $25 bucks. If you do have something going on in the engine they can often narrow down the problem by identifying the various metals in the sample. They give you a full written report and you can even call to talk to them about it if you’re inclined. Some metal in the oil is normal. This will help with your peace of mind or encourage you to start that savings account.
Also, might I suggest, that you open up the filter and take a look to see what’s accumulating in there. Even use a little magnet to drag through the folds in the filter. If there’s crud send the oil sample — that you should have taken as it drained from the crankcase during your oil change — to a testing lab like Blackstone (there are others) for analysis. Usually about $25 bucks. If you do have something going on in the engine they can often narrow down the problem by identifying the various metals in the sample. They give you a full written report and you can even call to talk to them about it if you’re inclined. Some metal in the oil is normal. This will help with your peace of mind or encourage you to start that savings account.
