Broken Tabs

hwerner · Mar 8, 2020

hi

I am wondering if anyone has a fix for a broken tab. I bought the 2015 RT used and went to charge the battery. When I put the cover on one the three tab that holds the triangular plastic fell on the floor. It seems that this piece was previously repaired.

I tried Palasti Aid and while the tab held as soon I applied force it broke again.

Not really into a $300 part to fix this small thing so I was wondering if anyone has a fix.

thanks in advance

HW

drgnhtr · Mar 8, 2020

Plast Aid

I've used this on more than a few things and it worked like a champ.

https://www.plast-aid.com/

EUGENE · Mar 8, 2020

drgnhtr said:
I've used this on more than a few things and it worked like a champ.

https://www.plast-aid.com/

Oh yes this work for me too!

Omega Man · Mar 8, 2020

More info here- https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthrea...r-Body-Panel-Tabs-One-Solution&highlight=tabs
OM

azgman · Mar 8, 2020

JB Plastic bonder will work as will ABS Cement (at least it has in the past)

e2c21c5d-17aa-4f28-aced-af1923501a0e_1.fb8d66a2c7b2276fb7c0f7658be79f8c.jpeg

hwerner · Mar 8, 2020

drgnhtr said:
I've used this on more than a few things and it worked like a champ.

https://www.plast-aid.com/

thanks for the quick replies.

I used Plast-Aid and the tab broke off again.

The issue is that the part that is breaking is really a receptor for a pin that is seated by force. When I applied the force required to see the pin the joint snapped.

I suppose I will need to get creative and reinforce the seam with something for create one out of metal that is mounted to the back of the Tupperware piece.

thanks

azgman · Mar 8, 2020

Agreed, adding some sort of gusset for strength would help.

robsryder · Mar 8, 2020

To re-attach the female (rubber grommet) plastic piece I would use some epoxy. I have had success using a sandwich of epoxy-aluminum-epoxy to add strength. Typically I use a small bit of an aluminum can. One could try plastic welding, but it is important to use the correct plastic rod for the "welding". I have better luck with the epoxy. Kits are available with multiple types of the plastic welding rods; an example is given in the link below -

https://www.amazon.com/40PCS-Plastic-welding-welder-plastic/dp/B073YS6454

To lessen the force applied to the repaired female (rubber grommet) part it would be useful to apply a small amount of silicone (e.g. Sil-Glyde from NAPA) to the rubber grommet.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7651351?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google

pglaves · Mar 8, 2020

After the piece holding the grommet is reattached - before engaging whatever sticks in the grommet - reduce the diameter. I dislike the system of these "mushroom" things stuffed into those grommets even when the grommets are in a hole in a steel piece welded to the frame. So on my K75s and R1150 and others, I always sand down the male portion to make it smoother, smaller, and easier to insert and remove.

khafner · Mar 9, 2020

broken piece

That tab is just a locator. I have put mine on many times with no washer and things worked OK. If you do that it will lessen the pressure to push it in. The other thing is to ream out the inside of the rubber bushing so that it fits easier.

gator · Mar 9, 2020

New Plastic adhesives

I have had great luck with these new uv activated adhesives. They work much like the adhesives that Dentists use.
I have not tried any on this type of material but have been happy with how it has worked on other plastic repairs.
Gator

hwerner · Mar 9, 2020

robsryder said:
To re-attach the female (rubber grommet) plastic piece I would use some epoxy. I have had success using a sandwich of epoxy-aluminum-epoxy to add strength. Typically I use a small bit of an aluminum can. One could try plastic welding, but it is important to use the correct plastic rod for the "welding". I have better luck with the epoxy. Kits are available with multiple types of the plastic welding rods; an example is given in the link below -

https://www.amazon.com/40PCS-Plastic-welding-welder-plastic/dp/B073YS6454

To lessen the force applied to the repaired female (rubber grommet) part it would be useful to apply a small amount of silicone (e.g. Sil-Glyde from NAPA) to the rubber grommet.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7651351?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google

thanks very much!!

hwerner · Mar 9, 2020

khafner said:
That tab is just a locator. I have put mine on many times with no washer and things worked OK. If you do that it will lessen the pressure to push it in. The other thing is to ream out the inside of the rubber bushing so that it fits easier.

cap · Mar 9, 2020

I had an R1150RT on which the trim panels had similar issues. It is a common problem. The most innovative solution I ever saw involved using super-magnets. That is, replacing the plastic pin (which had sheared off) with a disc-shaped magnet, and inserting a bolt into the grommet from the rear. So, the magnet grabbed the tip of the bolt, that was slightly protruding from the grommet.

The magnet was attached to the plastic panel using epoxy, and it was a good bond.

Given the type of break in your plastic that holds your grommet -- a cantilever configuration -- you have a large bending moment. I don't think that you will be successful repairing that type of failure without fabricating some kind of gusset. But if you were to attach a steel backing plate to the frame (plumber's tape?), then use the magnet method, you could achieve a secure attachment for that corner of your panel.

Cap

hwerner · Mar 9, 2020

cap said:
I had an R1150RT on which the trim panels had similar issues. It is a common problem. The most innovative solution I ever saw involved using super-magnets. That is, replacing the plastic pin (which had sheared off) with a disc-shaped magnet, and inserting a bolt into the grommet from the rear. So, the magnet grabbed the tip of the bolt, that was slightly protruding from the grommet.

The magnet was attached to the plastic panel using epoxy, and it was a good bond.

Given the type of break in your plastic that holds your grommet -- a cantilever configuration -- you have a large bending moment. I don't think that you will be successful repairing that type of failure without fabricating some kind of gusset. But if you were to attach a steel backing plate to the frame (plumber's tape?), then use the magnet method, you could achieve a secure attachment for that corner of your panel.

Cap

Excellent suggestion!! Thanks.

pettynerd · Mar 12, 2020

My wife has fixed a few side covers with a fiberglass nail repair kit, they looked as good as new and didn't break again.

AjaxTheDog · Mar 12, 2020

If you have a very clean and tight fit of the two broken parts I swear by this stuff which is freaking amazing and available for a pittance at Home Depot. If there is old glue residue or the parts do not fit together tightly with no gap then it's not as good as epoxy reinforced with fiberglass or some similar fiber backing. Otherwise I have repaired things with this that were not fixable by any other means, and they did hold together over time.

Omega Man · Mar 12, 2020

AjaxTheDog said:
If you have a very clean and tight fit of the two broken parts I swear by this stuff which is freaking amazing and available for a pittance at Home Depot. If there is old glue residue or the parts do not fit together tightly with no gap then it's not as good as epoxy reinforced with fiberglass or some similar fiber backing. Otherwise I have repaired things with this that were not fixable by any other means, and they did hold together over time.
View attachment 77496

Any attachments with adhesive/epoxy/glue can be improved with a “mesh” reinforcement such as fiberglass fabric, even mesh drywall tape. Sorta spreads the stress load.
I’m a fan of West System G-Flex 2 part epoxy myself.
OM

hwerner · Mar 20, 2020

cap said:
I had an R1150RT on which the trim panels had similar issues. It is a common problem. The most innovative solution I ever saw involved using super-magnets. That is, replacing the plastic pin (which had sheared off) with a disc-shaped magnet, and inserting a bolt into the grommet from the rear. So, the magnet grabbed the tip of the bolt, that was slightly protruding from the grommet.

The magnet was attached to the plastic panel using epoxy, and it was a good bond.

Given the type of break in your plastic that holds your grommet -- a cantilever configuration -- you have a large bending moment. I don't think that you will be successful repairing that type of failure without fabricating some kind of gusset. But if you were to attach a steel backing plate to the frame (plumber's tape?), then use the magnet method, you could achieve a secure attachment for that corner of your panel.

Cap

I bent and cut a small piece of plastic to reinforce the break and then used Plastaid. It seems to be rock solid.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

usablue · Mar 22, 2020

hwerner said:
hi

I am wondering if anyone has a fix for a broken tab. I bought the 2015 RT used and went to charge the battery. When I put the cover on one the three tab that holds the triangular plastic fell on the floor. It seems that this piece was previously repaired.

I tried Palasti Aid and while the tab held as soon I applied force it broke again.

Not really into a $300 part to fix this small thing so I was wondering if anyone has a fix.

thanks in advance

HWView attachment 77414 View attachment 77415

Funny, (funny odd not funny Ha Ha) I had the exact same thing happen to me, same year RT too, It really did not take much and mine broke coming off. A few suggestions here but I don't see anyone who actually fixed it or did I mis read something. I like the magnet but I had not thought of reinforcing it with drywall tape or similar, good idea.

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