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Just bought a 2003 K1200GT!

The brake light bulb appears to be working (need a mirror to view both of them) and I don't know if there is more than one brake bulb. Easy enough to find out, will post the results!
 
Did you check the brake light bulb?

Just checked the rear bulb. What threw me is that the running light works, and then the brake light works when the brakes are depressed. I then swapped the (+) terminals on the rear brake light so I swapped the brake with the running light. Turned the bike back on, the running light was no longer on with the ignition, but the brake light came on when the brakes were depressed. And the ! sign was no longer on the dash.

So it was doing what it was supposed to, when the brake element burns out, it dims the running light and then uses the running light for the brake light (same element does both jobs). Just need a new bulb and I'll be in business! Can't wait to try the cruise control.
 
Got a new rear light bulb, ! symbol is gone, cruise control works!

When I drove it home yesterday, I never exceeded 5K RPM or so.....today I went down an industrial street (dead on Sunday) and tried the brakes, all I can say is WOW, are they over the top good!

Then I tried the right hand in accelerating.....HOLY *HIT this bike is FAST! The first time I shifted at 6K RPM, the next time 7K RPM, I could not believe how the bike pulls! I did not have the balls to bring it up towards redline. Definitely like a sport bike. I'm glad I don't have the newer 155 HP version! 130 HP works just fine.....
 
Yep fast and smooth.
It's not fussy about what gear you're in or the RPM when you open the throttle.
 
Lee-

I see you had an 84 K110LT. EDIT: Now I see you had a R1000RT, but you might still be able to answer the question.

Well what do you know, my name was passed along at the dealer to somebody who is trying to sell their Dad's bike (he is in the hospital on his final stages of life), which is also a K1100LT. It red, has the speakers on the rear top case, hasn't been registered since 2013, and needs a fuel pump and front brake work, there is no front brakes whatsoever, I don't know if somebody took the pads out or what. It's gonna need a complete rebuild on the front brakes. Can't hear it run, but it is reported to be a good bike, just not been ridden for many years, and they have figured out it would cost too much to get it running to sell.

I saw it, it's very dusty, but appears to be well taken care of, just needs some TLC. I already looked up to see what it takes to do the fuel pump, that's easy and inexpensive, and I could fix the brakes without issue, even if I need some parts. I am an experienced mechanic.

It looks like the bike isn't really worth more than $2K realistically if it was in running condition and all cleaned up. I think I can get it for $500. I'm a project guy, I have room for it, and would love to work on it and bring it back to life. I have a friend that would be interested in it, or my 25 year old son.

Should I take the plunge? Is it a great touring bike? I know it's not a modern touring bike. But it is darn cool. I like that it's "smaller" as compared to present day bikes.

k11001.jpg



k11002.jpg



k11003.jpg
 
Probably at a farm or hardware store.
It's a Channel Lock filter wrench.
https://smile.amazon.com/Channelloc...annellock+filter+wrench&qid=1582480264&sr=8-3

Lee,
Thanks for the link! I need to change the air and fuel filter this spring and this will be a better wrench than I used the last time. Which brings a question. The link you sent is for the 212 Channel Lock wrench with a max. 4.25" opening. There is also a 215 model with a 5.5" capacity. It's been a while since I changed the fuel filter, but in my mind that retaining ring is at least 4" if not bigger. Am I mis-rememebering?
 
Lee,
Thanks for the link! I need to change the air and fuel filter this spring and this will be a better wrench than I used the last time. Which brings a question. The link you sent is for the 212 Channel Lock wrench with a max. 4.25" opening. There is also a 215 model with a 5.5" capacity. It's been a while since I changed the fuel filter, but in my mind that retaining ring is at least 4" if not bigger. Am I mis-rememebering?

I checked my wrench and it's stamped 212. I measure the opening as 3.5 inches to the end of the tooth. :dunno
 
I checked my wrench and it's stamped 212. I measure the opening as 3.5 inches to the end of the tooth. :dunno

And the wrench you have obviously fit the retaining ring? In researching that 212 wrench it seems there were some that were a max. of 3.5" but now they are 4.25" - or at least they have changed the packaging and the way they are measuring the opening.
 
Lee-

I see you had an 84 K110LT. EDIT: Now I see you had a R1000RT, but you might still be able to answer the question.

I don't know much about that model other than the fuel pump is easy to change on that vintage of K bike.
Don't start it before looking at the pump because the rubber damper may be dissolved from ethanol gas.
 
Paul
It looks like that K1100 has ABS, I can see the hydraulic unit on the swing-arm.
With the bike sitting that long the pressure modulator may need a rebuild.

k11002.jpg
 
Yep, it has one on each side. I figure there is going to be something that's not a quick turn of the wrench with that bike. But it's calling my name!

LOL
 
My thoughts on the K11:
You are probably right in its not being worth more than $2k even in good running shape.
A lot of people who had K11LTs loved them, in part because, as you noted, they were smaller than the behemoths that followed. That said they weren't anywhere near light; feeling especially top heavy at low speeds.
That generation was famous for failing it's brake master cylinders, so figure on rebuilding those at a minimum. Yours (?) has ABS I which was a pretty basic system. Real slow reaction times. If the system doesn't work after some basic maintenance on it, I'd give serious consideration to simply bypassing it rather than putting the effort into getting it functional.
The photos suggest the sidecovers are missing.
ABS aside, they were still pretty basic which made for easy wrenching.
The radios were known for being worthless.
Those rims dented easily.
Given all that, the cheap price, and the fact you have the time and space, it looks like you owe it to the community to put another BMW back on the road!
 
That's correct.

Lee (and those who might care), I bought one of those Channellock 212 wrenches like you have. All the listings (including the Channellock product page) I found said it had a span of 2.75 to 4.25 inches, however the one I received from Amazon was 2.5 to 3.75 inches. Curious if there had been a change in specs and somehow I'd gotten old stock I called Channellock customer service. Today they called me back and said there was a mistake on their web page and there is only on version of the 212 model, and it's 2.5 to 3.75 inches measured from the base of the teeth with the handles parallel. I was impressed that they would actually call back which counts for me as excellent customer service. They have already corrected their web page. Can't wait to put them to use changing my K12RS fuel filter. :)
 
I have a similar wrench in my tool cabinet, but I'm a cheapskate airhead owner who sometimes goes for the low-cost option on infrequently used and low-tech tools. I think this is the wrench I have, but it only opens to 3.25".

I've been able to use it on my brick-K, but also have one of these which has bailed me out a time or two on various vehicles.

And of course, a strap wrench works too--if the strap is thin enough to slide in place.

But if you want a truly permanent piece of kit, the Channellock 212 is the go-to.
:)

Best,
DeVern
 
I have a similar wrench in my tool cabinet, but I'm a cheapskate airhead owner who sometimes goes for the low-cost option on infrequently used and low-tech tools. I think this is the wrench I have, but it only opens to 3.25".

I've been able to use it on my brick-K, but also have one of these which has bailed me out a time or two on various vehicles.

And of course, a strap wrench works too--if the strap is thin enough to slide in place.

But if you want a truly permanent piece of kit, the Channellock 212 is the go-to.
:)

Best,
DeVern

The "vicegrip" open jaw tool from Harbor Freight looks pretty interesting. For my specific application of removing and replacing the fuel pump assembly retaining ring on my K1200RS strap wrenches have just barely worked. I think the Channellock 212 type wrench looks like the right tool, plus Lee seems satisfied with his. I did find the Channellock less expensive at $22.00 than I would have thought for a quality USA made tool.
 
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