Results 1 to 12 of 12

Thread: How to remove cross over pipe

  1. #1
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    54

    How to remove cross over pipe

    I have been trying to remove the cross over pipe from my 1979 R65. For the last two months I have been hitting it with PB Blaster. Then I applied heat and even with a pipe wrench I can't get it to budge. I would just leave it on if the clamping thing on the other end wasn't broken off. Any suggestions. If your going to say cut it off, how?

    Thanks,
    Attached Images Attached Images
    19512
    Buffalo, NY

    1971 R75/5, 1982 R100/RS, 1978 Triumph Tiger (in bits)

  2. #2
    I don't know how to get it off for sure, short of cutting but do know how I would cut it if I decided I had to do it. First I would cut the pipe off beyond the length of the stubs on the header. An angle grinder or hacksaw would do this fine. Then I would use a Dremel style tool with a cutoff disk attachment. I would carefully cut slots on opposite sides of the crossover pipe. I might even make four such cuts 90 degrees apart. I would then use an awl type tool driven in between each of the segments and the exhaust header. This should physically break the rust free. It would be necessary to very carefully control the depth of the slots so as to not unduly damage the header. This would have to be a slow deliberative process.
    Last edited by PGlaves; 02-07-2020 at 06:07 PM.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  3. #3
    Debbie's Servant Lee's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    SW Iowa
    Posts
    7,067
    Quote Originally Posted by jschara View Post
    I would just leave it on if the clamping thing on the other end wasn't broken off. Any suggestions. If your going to say cut it off, how?

    Thanks,
    Why do you need to remove it?
    On my 1984 R100RT I left mine unclamped so I could spread the headers when changing the oil filter.
    If I remember right the clamp on one side fell off the first year.
    Lee
    2016 R1200RS
    MOA # 30878
    Past BMW Bikes: 2011 K1300S, 2003 K1200RS, 1991 K75S, 1987 K75T, 1984 R100RT

  4. #4
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    54
    Thanks Paul. If I do do cut it off, your tip makes sense.

    Lee. I just thought that it had to have a tight fit for better exhaust.

    Thanks again, Jim
    19512
    Buffalo, NY

    1971 R75/5, 1982 R100/RS, 1978 Triumph Tiger (in bits)

  5. #5
    After 41 years of heat cycling, internal water/steam and acidic vapor exposure, and whatever environmental exposure the outside of the pipes have seen, Iíd tend to expect that the headers and crossover pipe have effectively welded/corroded themselves into a single piece thatís unlikely to be non-destructively disassembled into its OEM component parts. Reuse the assembly as-is, or re-lube the supply chain and treat the bike and yourself to a new set of pipes.

  6. #6
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Nibley, UT USA
    Posts
    1,369
    Quote Originally Posted by khittner View Post
    After 41 years of heat cycling, internal water/steam and acidic vapor exposure, and whatever environmental exposure the outside of the pipes have seen, Iíd tend to expect that the headers and crossover pipe have effectively welded/corroded themselves into a single piece thatís unlikely to be non-destructively disassembled into its OEM component parts. Reuse the assembly as-is, or re-lube the supply chain and treat the bike and yourself to a new set of pipes.
    Very practical advice above.

    If the OP is dead-set on removing the pipe, I would suggest the application of *serious* heat from a welding torch, until the pipe is glowing red. That much heat liquifies the rust and is a common technique in muffler shops dealing with decades-old auto exhausts. And of course, some discoloration is going to occur on the header pipe, which means a new crossover pipe will look somewhat out of place. That leads back to how nice a new set of headers and crossover will look, and how with a proper coat of heat-resistant anti-seize how easy they will be to remove in the future.

    Best,
    DeVern
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST ó 1984 R80 G/S-PD ó 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C ó 2010 K1300GT ó 2018 R1200GS
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  7. #7
    Registered User beemeruss's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Edmonton AB Canada
    Posts
    101

    Cheap crossover

    If the crossover is the same size - ie 30mm ID - as the /6 /7 bikes here is a tip that I will pass on to those cheap bastards like me. The chrome wand sections of older vacuums are the correct diameter and have very good chrome and thick wall section. Mine are 250mm in length and I cut 2 shallow slits, maybe 25mm, at each end at 12:00 and 6:00 to allow just a smidge of compression of an appropriate clamp. Yeah, the bright chrome is as obvious as a missing tooth but disassembly is waaay easier than wrestling with an old rock-dented original. Just as with the headers, a little anti-seize will keep them free of corrosion for a long time. If the crossover for the R65 has a different diameter, please ignore.
    Cheers,
    Russ '76 R90/6 '78 R80/7 '78 R100RS

  8. #8
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Buffalo, NY
    Posts
    54
    Good tip. I'll keep that in mind.

    Thanks, Jim
    19512
    Buffalo, NY

    1971 R75/5, 1982 R100/RS, 1978 Triumph Tiger (in bits)

  9. #9
    The crossover pipe for an R65 is smaller diameter than those on the rest of the /7 bikes, but, perhaps your local Kirby representative still has a solution that could be cut and/or bent to fit, in the finest airhead manner.

  10. #10
    Registered User b25bsaboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Calgary, AB. Canada
    Posts
    589
    Quote Originally Posted by jschara View Post
    I have been trying to remove the cross over pipe from my 1979 R65. For the last two months I have been hitting it with PB Blaster. Then I applied heat and even with a pipe wrench I can't get it to budge. I would just leave it on if the clamping thing on the other end wasn't broken off. Any suggestions. If your going to say cut it off, how?

    Thanks,
    Good evening, Timely topic as I just pulled down a set of X-Over pipes that originally came off a 1982 BNW R110Rs that was left over from a pile of parts I bought several years ago after a chap I knew made a Bobber out of it! I bought home a 1972 BMW r75/5 that as in dry storage for some 20 years that had exhaust pipes that needed replacing and thought I would use the ones off the 100RS.Only one problem is that after all these years then X-Over pipe would not let go on the right pipe side. Oh here we go again. Been to this rodeo before and I knew patience is key. Soaked the X-Over and right slip ranges and heat , clamp in a soft jaw vies and slowly wiggle back and forth, First two or three times, didnít budge The previous ownwe or mechanic ground off the clamp attachment, so I then heated it to about 130 degrees F, placed a sharp flat chisel and slightly tapped enough to spread ever so lightly the groove section. Put more thread penitent this time down the X-Over pipe and rehaeat and wiggle it back and forth! Slight movement and keep wiggling and it eventually came off

    Ok thatís my story, but I have a question about R100RS and R75/5 exhaust pipes. Are they interchangeable? I took the R100RS gave them a cleaning and tried to see if they fit. I am surprised to say they fit fine and I had a set of sealing rings from another project tht fit perfectly. Would appreciate a comment and I am going into the shop tomorrow to see if the mufflers will still fit!
    Rick MacPherson
    Success is Not a Destination, But a Journey.
    Accredited Motorcycle Appraiser
    1968 BSA Starfire, 73 R75/5 SWB, 2010 Honda GL-1800 Razor Motor Trike

  11. #11
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    21,007
    What year R100RS? It appears that the part numbers and size (38mm) are the same between the /5 and the twin shock RS. Not so for the post '84 RS...different animal.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  12. #12
    Registered User b25bsaboy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Calgary, AB. Canada
    Posts
    589
    Quote Originally Posted by 20774 View Post
    What year R100RS? It appears that the part numbers and size (38mm) are the same between the /5 and the twin shock RS. Not so for the post '84 RS...different animal.
    I was told it came rom a 1982 100RS!
    Rick MacPherson
    Success is Not a Destination, But a Journey.
    Accredited Motorcycle Appraiser
    1968 BSA Starfire, 73 R75/5 SWB, 2010 Honda GL-1800 Razor Motor Trike

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 22
    Last Post: 11-17-2014, 05:58 PM
  2. 00 R1100RT- Looking for a cross-over pipe
    By COOLTOMCAT in forum Oilheads
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 03-31-2009, 11:07 PM
  3. Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-23-2008, 05:05 PM
  4. Y pipe or Pre-Pipe (collector)?
    By screwtop in forum Oilheads
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 06-08-2005, 05:03 PM
  5. Y-pipe
    By DougT in forum Oilheads
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 02-23-2005, 08:22 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •