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'95 K75 heated grips
- Thread starter 27376
- Start date
I would try find the connections for the LH and RH grips and disconnect them and turn on the control. If the fuse holds, them plug in one grip and if that works try the other. If the fuse blows with just one of the grips plugged in you have a shorted grip heater on that side. If the fuse blows with the grips disconnected, then you will need to look over the wiring for any pinches of worn spots in the insulation.
Have you done any work on the handlebars and the forward part of the motorcycle right before you noticed the issue? Often problems like this are self inflicted. You might have pinched a wire while doing some other repair.
Have you done any work on the handlebars and the forward part of the motorcycle right before you noticed the issue? Often problems like this are self inflicted. You might have pinched a wire while doing some other repair.
John,
We ask, when you are starting a thread in the Flying Brick section of this forum, that you include the year and model of the bike in question IN THE TITLE of your thread. There are many different Flying Bricks with widely varying specs and systems. I have added that info to the title for you. Please do so in the future.
The odds are one of the grips is shorted out. Is there any visible external damage to either grip (especialy at the end)? The grip wires exit the handlebars through a hole between the bar clamps. The connector is under the tank. You can remove the tank and follow the wires to the connector. Unplug the connector and check each pair of wires for a short with an ohmmeter. Turn the grips on with the connector unplugged to see if the fuse blows, indicating a short in the harness.
If you find one of the pairs of wires is shorted, go to the left grip and bend the inner lip of the grip back to reveal the two phillips screws that hold the grip to the bar. Take them out. GENTLY slide the grip out a little bit to determine whether it starts to pull on the wire that you determined is shorted out or if it is the other one that is shorted out (indicating that it is the throttle side that is bad).
When removing the bad grip, remember to tie a string to the wire before you pull it out, so that you can use the string to pull the new grip wire through the handlebar.
We ask, when you are starting a thread in the Flying Brick section of this forum, that you include the year and model of the bike in question IN THE TITLE of your thread. There are many different Flying Bricks with widely varying specs and systems. I have added that info to the title for you. Please do so in the future.
The odds are one of the grips is shorted out. Is there any visible external damage to either grip (especialy at the end)? The grip wires exit the handlebars through a hole between the bar clamps. The connector is under the tank. You can remove the tank and follow the wires to the connector. Unplug the connector and check each pair of wires for a short with an ohmmeter. Turn the grips on with the connector unplugged to see if the fuse blows, indicating a short in the harness.
If you find one of the pairs of wires is shorted, go to the left grip and bend the inner lip of the grip back to reveal the two phillips screws that hold the grip to the bar. Take them out. GENTLY slide the grip out a little bit to determine whether it starts to pull on the wire that you determined is shorted out or if it is the other one that is shorted out (indicating that it is the throttle side that is bad).
When removing the bad grip, remember to tie a string to the wire before you pull it out, so that you can use the string to pull the new grip wire through the handlebar.
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