R80RT —> R80 conversion

I just took the fairing off of my 1986 R80RT. I am looking for advice and recommendations.

Here are my next issues:
1. I want a windshield. I’m thinking that I should get a windshield and mount it on the fork and also mount turn signals to the fork.

2. I will have to mount the clock, voltmeter and ignition switch somewhere, and have somewhere to stuff the wires.

Thanks in advance.

And why did your take off the fairing?

Try an "S" fairing

I have two of them from Boxer Cafe', very well made replicas of the real thing at a 1/4 of the cost of the real ones. One is going on my R 60/6 Police tribute and the other is on my '95 K 1100LT cafe' project.

You might have do some extra tinkering to get it mounted, I did a little heavy lifting with the Brick Cafe' but it was well worth it.

nickrides said:

And why did your take off the fairing?

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Since you asked: I bought this 1986 R80RT motorcycle new in Oct 1985. I have 84K on it.
The mounting bracket broke on on the left side, probably when I hit a deer about 20 years ago. It was repaired with a threaded rod and JB Weld, but it wasn’t secure and rattled a lot. Also another bracket part broke on the right side. Overall the fairing was in poor condition, both cosmetically and structurally. I felt it would make me happier to convert to a plain R80. So it’s not like I’m depriving future generations of thing of beauty and cultural significance. I also have an R100RT, so I will still be able to ride behind the same magnificent fairing.

Alright
I was just curious why you took off a fairing and you were looking for a windshield.
Good luck
Those R 80's are the best!

I guess you’ll need to decide how much windshield you really want. An “S” fairing, or one of the available clones, usually has a dashboard that the clock & voltmeter can be put into. If you’re thinking of a larger, clear handlebar-mounted shield, the school solution for the clock and voltmeter would have been, at one time, also mounting them on your handlebars using the OEM accessory gauge pods that used to be available for just that purpose (on G/S and other unfaired models), but I think those have been NLA from BMW for quite awhile. You may be able to find them used from the usual used parts sources. Or you could make-do without the clock or voltmeter, and remove the attendant wiring harness. Boxer2Valve has a current series of videos documenting a similar mono-shock RT conversion, that you may find helpful, particularly for the electrical reconfigurations for signals, ignition switch, etc.

i bought turn signals on eBay and I should get them next week, so that will be the next step in the project. I don’t have much time to devote to the project so it will take a while. Fortunately I’m not in a rush. Thanks for the advice.

Actually, those accessory gauge pods may have attached to brackets on top of the fork tubes, rather than to the handlebars. Dunno—I’ve always had fairing dashboards (S, RS, and RT) to put the clock and voltmeter into.

Mounting clock and voltmeter

khittner said:

Actually, those accessory gauge pods may have attached to brackets on top of the fork tubes, rather than to the handlebars. Dunno—I’ve always had fairing dashboards (S, RS, and RT) to put the clock and voltmeter into.

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I’m not familiar with these. I will have to slide the forks down in the triple trees in order to install the turn signals, so that would be a good time to put anything else on the forks. Can you suggest where I can look - a picture, website, anything? Thx

khittner is correct on this. The pods attached to the tabs, (normally used for the S fairing top brackets) on the top of the fork tubes.

Motometer instrument pods mounted on an '81 model:

http://dropbears.com/gallery/bmw_instruments/BMW_1981_Motometer_clock_voltmeter_VBG.htm

U stated u wanted a windshield for your bike. In the previous post there is a pic of the extra gauges added to a standard R80. If you look a little closer, they are surrounded by the BMW windshield set for this bike. They are currently available. I run them on my airheads, totally satisfied.

barryg said:

U stated u wanted a windshield for your bike. In the previous post there is a pic of the extra gauges added to a standard R80. If you look a little closer, they are surrounded by the BMW windshield set for this bike. They are currently available. I run them on my airheads, totally satisfied.

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Got a source for the pods/"holders", Barry? I'm not seeing them as available on the current parts listing at Bob's: https://www.bobsbmw.com/store/microfiche/BrowseParts.aspx?GroupName=Instruments+%26+Gauges+(62)&MBike=51802&GroupID=62

I have vague recollection that they've become unobtanium, though the various used parts sources/vendors may have them.

Went to Bob's site and checked the microfische. Looks to me like everything is a a available. Kinda pricey, but a vailable.

barryg said:

Went to Bob's site and checked the microfische. Looks to me like everything is a a available. Kinda pricey, but a vailable.

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The "E" code in the fiche's "availability" column next to the unit price means that the part is NLA. I haven't tried calling Bob's (as their general note on NLA parts suggests) to see if they otherwise have a source for a used or repro part. BMW's IP staffers may well disagree, but this seems like a reasonable application for 3-D printing.

RealOEM lists the pods as "ENDED". Guess that's what the "E" stands for on Bob's site.

Dp1guzzi said:

I’m not familiar with these. I will have to slide the forks down in the triple trees in order to install the turn signals, so that would be a good time to put anything else on the forks. Can you suggest where I can look - a picture, website, anything? Thx

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Removing the fork tubes from the lower triple clamp is unnecessary and not recommended. Everything needed to convert your RT to a ‘standard’ machine can be added from the top by removing the 3 large fasteners holding the top plate to the steering head and fork tubes. The upper S fairing/instrument pod mounting brackets fit under the left and right fork nuts in place of the washer under those nuts. They are held in correct alignment by a 6mm bolt through top plate (the notch in each bracket shows you where). Headlight mounts require upper and lower rubber gaskets and the turn signal brackets are held in place against a machined boss on the top of the lower triple clamp by the headlight mount assembly. Turn signal wires fit into the headlight mounts through a grommet in the side and exit to the signals through the signal stocks.
Older standard models positioned the ignition switch on the left side of the headlight using the switch assembly as one of the mounting fasteners. There is a group of specific metallic and rubber washers that have an installation order.
I’m certain that your handlebar switch gear can be reused and guessing the RT ignition switch wire loom will relocate. I’m not sure if the clock/volt gages will require separate wire looms but what ever is required has to have correct plugs. While you have the top plate removed, lower the fork assembly as a unit until you have access to the lower steering bearing and clean/grease it (the top bearing is removed for service). Consider lighter fork springs as the bike has less weight and changing fork fluid/servicing hydraulic brakes. How are the brake lines?
Several online parts purveyors provide digital schematics. Study them carefully to understand the various assemblies affected by your project goals. You will need some basic tools and a torque wrench in 25-250ftlb and inch pounds 0-50 for the steering bearing tension. This is a job for someone with a good airhead skill set but can be managed if carefully thought through by an average wrench.
Good luck

Thank you for the advice. I got the turn signals from eBay today. They have a notch that is supposed to fit tabs on the R80 lower triple clamp to prevent rotation, but mine doesn’t have such tabs, I guess because it was an RT. The fork measures 38-39 mm in diameter. The hole in the directional mount is 43mm. I can drill a hole and put in a pin to keep it from rotating. But how to make it secure? A hose clamp could be used but it would be ugly.
Unfortunately, I have to work this weekend, so I won’t make any progress on this project.

Reference 1986 R80RT parts on MAX BMW and view 31 0360 ‘lower fork cross brace’ schematic. There are two small holes drilled in the cast cross brace by each fork tube clamping boss into which a small roll pin is inserted- one on each side (P#6). That pin provides an anchor point for each signal stock, R&L. On a standard machine it protrudes from both the upper and lower faces of the cross brace to provide a locating pin for the turn signal stocks and, a locating pin for a rubber fork tube cover (or bellows commonly). The roll pin becomes a vent for the bellows as they compress with the sliders moving in response to the road. The headlight mounting assembly consisting of P# 12, 13, 14, and 15 (including the headlight mounting “ears”) which when installed together and clamped in place by the installation of the top plate then hold the turn signal stalks in place. The bellows are installed on the fork tubes from the bottom necessitating removal of the sliders if you want to add them. Otherwise the RT seal covers and exposed fork tubes will suffice. Routing the turn signal wires through the ears and out through the underside of the stalks is kind of a challenge as it seems like it was designed by an evil German Troll. The wire length and connector style are up to you to sort out. Of course parts availability is the key here. Gather everything first. Viel Glück

Na Cl K9 said:

I checked your first post to verify the year and type and see you have listed your machine as both a 1980 and a 1986. Reference 1986 R80RT parts on MAX BMW and view 31 0360 ‘lower fork cross brace’ schematic. There are two small holes drilled in the cast cross brace by each fork tube clamping boss into which a small roll pin is inserted- one on each side (P#6). That pin provides an anchor point for each signal stock, R&L. On a standard machine it protrudes from both the upper and lower faces of the cross brace to provide a locating pin for the turn signal stocks and, a locating pin for a rubber fork tube cover (or bellows commonly). The roll pin becomes a vent for the bellows as they compress with the sliders moving in response to the road.

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RealOEM shows this pin grayed out. On the MaxBMW fiche, the item is not listed in the table, and I thought indicating that it's not included for that model/year. On earlier models, I thought the sole function of this pin was to let the fork gaiters to breathe. Did the '86 R80RT still have the gaiters?