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Thread: R80RT —> R80 conversion

  1. #16
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    RealOEM lists the pods as "ENDED". Guess that's what the "E" stands for on Bob's site.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  2. #17
    John D'oh
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dp1guzzi View Post
    I’m not familiar with these. I will have to slide the forks down in the triple trees in order to install the turn signals, so that would be a good time to put anything else on the forks. Can you suggest where I can look - a picture, website, anything? Thx
    Removing the fork tubes from the lower triple clamp is unnecessary and not recommended. Everything needed to convert your RT to a ‘standard’ machine can be added from the top by removing the 3 large fasteners holding the top plate to the steering head and fork tubes. The upper S fairing/instrument pod mounting brackets fit under the left and right fork nuts in place of the washer under those nuts. They are held in correct alignment by a 6mm bolt through top plate (the notch in each bracket shows you where). Headlight mounts require upper and lower rubber gaskets and the turn signal brackets are held in place against a machined boss on the top of the lower triple clamp by the headlight mount assembly. Turn signal wires fit into the headlight mounts through a grommet in the side and exit to the signals through the signal stocks.
    Older standard models positioned the ignition switch on the left side of the headlight using the switch assembly as one of the mounting fasteners. There is a group of specific metallic and rubber washers that have an installation order.
    I’m certain that your handlebar switch gear can be reused and guessing the RT ignition switch wire loom will relocate. I’m not sure if the clock/volt gages will require separate wire looms but what ever is required has to have correct plugs. While you have the top plate removed, lower the fork assembly as a unit until you have access to the lower steering bearing and clean/grease it (the top bearing is removed for service). Consider lighter fork springs as the bike has less weight and changing fork fluid/servicing hydraulic brakes. How are the brake lines?
    Several online parts purveyors provide digital schematics. Study them carefully to understand the various assemblies affected by your project goals. You will need some basic tools and a torque wrench in 25-250ftlb and inch pounds 0-50 for the steering bearing tension. This is a job for someone with a good airhead skill set but can be managed if carefully thought through by an average wrench.
    Good luck
    John D'oh

  3. #18
    MOA 27106 Dp1guzzi's Avatar
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    Thank you for the advice. I got the turn signals from eBay today. They have a notch that is supposed to fit tabs on the R80 lower triple clamp to prevent rotation, but mine doesn’t have such tabs, I guess because it was an RT. The fork measures 38-39 mm in diameter. The hole in the directional mount is 43mm. I can drill a hole and put in a pin to keep it from rotating. But how to make it secure? A hose clamp could be used but it would be ugly.
    Unfortunately, I have to work this weekend, so I won’t make any progress on this project.

  4. #19
    John D'oh
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    Reference 1986 R80RT parts on MAX BMW and view 31 0360 ‘lower fork cross brace’ schematic. There are two small holes drilled in the cast cross brace by each fork tube clamping boss into which a small roll pin is inserted- one on each side (P#6). That pin provides an anchor point for each signal stock, R&L. On a standard machine it protrudes from both the upper and lower faces of the cross brace to provide a locating pin for the turn signal stocks and, a locating pin for a rubber fork tube cover (or bellows commonly). The roll pin becomes a vent for the bellows as they compress with the sliders moving in response to the road. The headlight mounting assembly consisting of P# 12, 13, 14, and 15 (including the headlight mounting “ears”) which when installed together and clamped in place by the installation of the top plate then hold the turn signal stalks in place. The bellows are installed on the fork tubes from the bottom necessitating removal of the sliders if you want to add them. Otherwise the RT seal covers and exposed fork tubes will suffice. Routing the turn signal wires through the ears and out through the underside of the stalks is kind of a challenge as it seems like it was designed by an evil German Troll. The wire length and connector style are up to you to sort out. Of course parts availability is the key here. Gather everything first. Viel Glück
    Last edited by Na Cl K9; 02-10-2020 at 07:13 PM.
    John D'oh

  5. #20
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Na Cl K9 View Post
    I checked your first post to verify the year and type and see you have listed your machine as both a 1980 and a 1986. Reference 1986 R80RT parts on MAX BMW and view 31 0360 ‘lower fork cross brace’ schematic. There are two small holes drilled in the cast cross brace by each fork tube clamping boss into which a small roll pin is inserted- one on each side (P#6). That pin provides an anchor point for each signal stock, R&L. On a standard machine it protrudes from both the upper and lower faces of the cross brace to provide a locating pin for the turn signal stocks and, a locating pin for a rubber fork tube cover (or bellows commonly). The roll pin becomes a vent for the bellows as they compress with the sliders moving in response to the road.
    RealOEM shows this pin grayed out. On the MaxBMW fiche, the item is not listed in the table, and I thought indicating that it's not included for that model/year. On earlier models, I thought the sole function of this pin was to let the fork gaiters to breathe. Did the '86 R80RT still have the gaiters?
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  6. #21
    MOA 27106 Dp1guzzi's Avatar
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    No, no gaiters

  7. #22
    John D'oh
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dp1guzzi View Post
    No, no gaiters
    No ‘gaiters’ (rubber fork boot/bellows) and no roll pin on the RT or RS but the 90S/R100S used a pin to locate the long turn signal mounts for the S fairing and headlight mounting assembly (the lower rubber gasket on the headlight mounts has a hole that fits over the pin). In that case the pin was not driven through the lower triple clamp to provide the vent because, no fork boot was planned. Roll pins are available at most hardware/fastener stores but finding a metric pin might be a challenge. I’ve managed to get them seated using some strips of emery cloth to reduce the OD a bit but they have to fit tight.
    Last edited by Na Cl K9; 02-09-2020 at 12:33 PM.
    John D'oh

  8. #23
    B Reams brook.reams's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Na Cl K9 View Post
    No ‘gaiters’ (rubber fork boot/bellows) and no roll pin on the RT or RS but the 90S/R100S used a pin to locate the long turn signal mounts for the S fairing and headlight mounting assembly (the lower rubber gasket on the headlight mounts has a hole that fits over the pin. In that case the pin was not driven through the lower triple clamp to provide the vent because, no fork boot was planned. Roll pins are available at most hardware/fastener stores but finding a metric pin might be a challenge. I’ve managed to get them seated using some strips of emery cloth to reduce the OD a bit but they have to fit tight.
    Note, these are available from BMW ( 07 11 9 941 471 ROLL PIN - 5X50), and I believe also from ACE Hardware, although I could be hallucinating on that point. :-)

    Best.
    Brook.
    Brook Reams - Arvada, CO
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    Various Two-wheeled Vices, All BMW || Website: Airhead Rebuild Projects
    2004 R1150-RS||2002 F650-GS||1983 R100RS||1977 R100RS||1973 R75/5

  9. #24
    Registered User barryg's Avatar
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    Fork boots/gaiters are cool on old airheads.

  10. #25
    MOA 27106 Dp1guzzi's Avatar
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    Now for the windshield and auxiliary lights

    Ok, the R80 conversion is done. Not cosmetically beautiful, but it runs and everything works, and with the decreased weight it is much friskier. I got the mounting parts for the voltmeter and clock from Motobins to put them on the tops of the forks. I would like to add a windshield and some white LEDs on the front. I haven’t removed the lower struts that held the fairing and I think I will mount the LEDs on them. I would like recommendations for a windshield and LEDs. Thanks!

  11. #26
    Registered User 6322's Avatar
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    Lot's of options for windshields but keeping it light, I've put National Cycle deflectors on several BMWs. They're light, mount with two knobs to the handlebars, made of Lexan, durable and reasonably priced. They won't keep you dry in a heavy rain, but they'll take the wind blast off of your chest and deflect the wind over, past your helmet with little wind noise around the helmet.
    IMG_0097.JPG
    P8100004.jpg
    Good luck with your choice.
    Gary Phillips - #6322
    Wildland Firefighter, Retired, Riggins, ID
    Heartland Moto Locos BMW Riders
    '77 R100/7 Dirt Hack, '83 R80ST, '85 K100RS w/EML, '93 K1100LT, '00 R1100RS

  12. #27
    MOA 27106 Dp1guzzi's Avatar
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    Thanks. Looks good, but I want something taller than that. I suppose what I want will have to be mounted to both the handlebars and the forks.

  13. #28
    Registered User barryg's Avatar
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    Memphis Shades has a large selection of metric windshields. A lot of motorcycle dealers carry their product and they have a pretty good web site. I use to use their windshields years ago. I live pretty close to the factory. I would ride over and usually buy several, all different kinds and sizes with all the mounting attachments. Good people and good product. Their just outside of Memphis,Tn; east in Rossville.

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