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'88 K75C Choke cable size

rall275

New member
I've got a K75C built in 6-23-87 and can't get the choke (idle advance) adjustment to adjust anymore. I believe the cable is stretched as turning the end after loosening the nut does nothing. For both positions, my cold idle rpm is higher than spec. Can you confirm, at max choke position, there should be 1.5mm clearance between the idle stop screw and its stop. For lower choke setting, should be 3mm clearance.

It's stock, so do you think I have the low, standard, or high bar version of the choke cable? EME will be my supplier once I figure this out.

I'm suspecting the standard, but wanted to know if anyone knows so I don't have to remove it to measure.

Also, choke cable replacement, difficult job or easy?

Thanks for any input on the matter.
 
https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?96111-K75-Handlebars

Clymers manual has the numbers reversed (typo). Should be 1.5mm (.059") at first click and 3mm (.118") at the second, fully on, click.

A stretched choke cable will not make the bike idle too FAST.

I don't believe there is a spec for COLD idle, only for hot idle. If your warmed up idle is too high, there are a multitude of things that will cause that, including too tight choke adjustment, throttle position switch out of adjustment, throttlebodies out of balance, etc



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Thanks Lee. Well, when I turn the crosshatched adjuster, I'm watching the idle stop screw and I'm seeing no movement to or from the stop. That leads me to believe it might be a faulty cable. Warmed up idle is in spec. Thanks for the info on cylmers typo, I thought that it was counterintuitive when I reread that position of choke control and distance.

I'll continue to analyze the situation.
 
Do you see movement when you move the choke lever? Do you get the appropriate movement (1.5mm and 3mm)?

Is the knurled adjuster moving up and down in the threaded bracket?



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yes, when I turn the choke lever to the two positions, there is movement. the 1.5 and 3 I thought was the clearance above the stop after the 2 choke positions were achieved. Yes, the knurled adjuster is moving up and down. I was adjusting it close to it's limit as it was almost above the threading at one point.

So, there's adequate movement, I'm saying the clearances are off a little, I think the clearances are too large, thus the higher than optimal rpms at each position, although I know you said there is no rpm spec for these choke settings. As I adjusted the knurled adjuster upward (I believe counterclockwise rotation), I didn't notice the clearance changing
between the stop screw and the stop below it.


Thanks Lee.
 
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Keep in mind that the overall length of the cable is not what determines the amount of movement when the fast idle is engaged. That is determined by how much longer the inner cable is than the outer sheath, and of course how much engagement cam/knob moves that cable.
The various model-based lengths are purely to fit the different handlebar heights. I'd bet that taking the overall length out of the equation, that the length different between the outer sheath and the inner cable is the same for all the cables.
 
Yes, the knurled adjuster is moving up and down. I was adjusting it close to it's limit as it was almost above the threading at one point.

So, there's adequate movement, I'm saying the clearances are off a little, I think the clearances are too large, thus the higher than optimal rpms at each position, although I know you said there is no rpm spec for these choke settings. As I adjusted the knurled adjuster upward (I believe counterclockwise rotation), I didn't notice the clearance changing between the stop screw and the stop below it.


Thanks Lee.

You are turning the adjuster the wrong way. Turn it clockwise. That will screw it into the bracket and lower the clearance between the idle screw and the stop and lower the rpm.






:dance:dance:dance
 
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