throttle body sync

hi all.. i have a '99 R1100RT.. dies out at stop signs.. not all the time , occasionally.. Idle is right at 1100 rpm, seems to be right on..
do you think this is a throttle body sync issue, or valve adjustment.. Thank you, Rich

also.. do you need to remove tupper ware to make adjustment?

Yes. Remove the fairings. Do a valve clearance check or adjustment. Take the bike for a 20 minute ride and do a throttle body sync.

Once this is done, you will have a baseline so that you can diagnose any further running issues that come up.

I would continue this with, do you have a service history for the bike? Do you know when the fuel filter was last changed?

Before doing the sync, count the turns closed, then remove the big brass screw on each throttle body and clean them.
They get gummed up.
Clean the bores with a Q tip dipped in solvent.
Lightly lube the O ring on the screw.
Replace the screws to the recorded turns out.
Start your sync.

Does your bike surge (aka hunt) at small throttle openings? If so, try the Zero = Zero synch method, developed by MOA Member Rob Lentini (may he RIP)

If your bike does not surge, I would not advise you to use this technique.

Ian

Visian said:

Does your bike surge (aka hunt) at small throttle openings? If so, try the Zero = Zero synch method, developed by MOA Member Rob Lentini (may he RIP)

If your bike does not surge, I would not advise you to use this technique.

Ian

Click to expand...

Rob was an early experimenter with Oilheads and made many important tests. As with all technology, those that come later stand on the shoulders of those who came before. In this case, later research showed that zero=zero was wrong and should not be used.

The last thing one should try as a last resort is realigning the TB stop screws. If one needs to though, the correct zero=250 procedure is here at step 1.5: https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthrea...nd-Zero-Zero&p=1091142&viewfull=1#post1091142

With all respect to the original poster and the other good suggestions made.... the original post involved a very basic question regarding one of the most simple and routine maintenance procedures. My feeling here is that the suggestions offered should be more in line with the apparent wrenching level of the original poster. Just my.02.

+1, but people do come back later and read the threads.

When a poster asks whether the plastic has to come off to perform a certain service I assume an unfamiliarity with that bike or that service. That is not a negative. But replies ought to reflect that fact and helpfully guide the poster on how to proceed.

During the 20 years I wrote "Benchwrenching" I had to walk that fine line to address both the novice and the experienced at the same time without losing the novice or boring the experienced. We need to try to do the same here.

PGlaves said:

When a poster asks whether the plastic has to come off to perform a certain service I assume an unfamiliarity with that bike or that service. That is not a negative. But replies ought to reflect that fact and helpfully guide the poster on how to proceed.

During the 20 years I wrote "Benchwrenching" I had to walk that fine line to address both the novice and the experienced at the same time without losing the novice or boring the experienced. We need to try to do the same here.

Click to expand...

Starting simple is never the wrong thing to do, like asking simple questions. Even very, very experienced wrenches forget simple.

Once you are over your head, ask more questions. Very, very experienced wrenches know that sharing the wealth, so to speak, builds experience, for both.

Not every answer you might get will be the right one for you.

Look at failure as adding to your experience.

Hello Group

I have no idea what kind of tuning method you are looking at using to balance the intakes. This can be as expensive as you want BUT in my battles with my
99 R1100RT I have built a manometer. This consists of connecting 2 tubes to the bottom of the intakes (1 on each intake), these run to a water balance.

Balancing consists of balancing the right side to the left side. I have also found from research that 1" motion of mercury equates to 13" water motion, I think
water may make balancing easier / closer than mercury but I have never used mercury to balance anything but clocks. When I balance mine it
usually comes down within 1/4" of even.

Yes I hate to say this but the fairings have to come off both for the valve adjustment but also the carbs. The cables need to be disconnected at the intake for the closed position balancing. After this has been established the cables need to be reconnected for the "just off idle" balance position ( this is the cable adjuster position) there should be a small bit of movement at the ends of the cables.

While the fairings are off you may want to remove the evaporation can and tubing that is associated. ( ONLY IF NOT A STATE REQUIREMENT FOR EMISSION CONTROL )

Millwrightmonkey

99 R1100 RT---105K
87 R1100 RT--- 87K
76 Honda CB550 FOUR
65 Honda CB160

If the cables are correctly adjusted there is no need to disconnect any of them to do a proper TB balance.
No even BMW suggests this.

PGlaves said:

When a poster asks whether the plastic has to come off to perform a certain service I assume an unfamiliarity with that bike or that service. That is not a negative. But replies ought to reflect that fact and helpfully guide the poster on how to proceed.

During the 20 years I wrote "Benchwrenching" I had to walk that fine line to address both the novice and the experienced at the same time without losing the novice or boring the experienced. We need to try to do the same here.

Click to expand...

As someone who is on the steep end of the learning curve, that approach is much appreciated. I've learned alot from everyone's help on this site and appreciate the ability to ask the "stupid" questions without feeling like a complete idiot...