Best Oil Royal Purple or Mobil 1 synthetic 2001 K1200RS

Just had a question what would be the best oil to use I know there are a ton of brands. I was thinking about using Royal Purple for my next oil change. I was using mobil 1 but I was just curious if it is better.
I just seeing if anyone had recommendations. I also was considering using the KN oil filter as well. Thanks for the advice. Happy Holidays

If anybody actually answers this troll before April Fools day they ought to be banned from the entire internet.

I would not lose any sleep over which oil is best. Mobil 1 is very easy to find so that would be a plus for me.
I used Castrol GTX dino oil in all of our Brick engine K bikes without any problems.
Instead of K&N I would use the BMW oil filter or a Bosch filter from Beemerboneyard. https://www.beemerboneyard.com/11421460845s.html

meads77 said:

Just had a question what would be the best oil to use I know there are a ton of brands. I was thinking about using Royal Purple for my next oil change. I was using mobil 1 but I was just curious if it is better.
I just seeing if anyone had recommendations. I also was considering using the KN oil filter as well. Thanks for the advice. Happy Holidays

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It must be winter...

Do NOT use the K&N filter, numerous issues have been reported with them. You’re better off buying the Mahle or Bosch filters from https://www.beemerboneyard.com/k121.html. They also offer a discount to BMWMOA members; check for the code in your ON magazine.

IMO, Royal Purple is expensive and offers no benefit over other correct oils, save that it’s adherents somehow feel greater peace of mind and the satisfaction of membership in a smaller, more exclusive usergroup. You didn’t specify which Mobil 1 you were considering, and it makes a huge difference. Mobil 1 V-Twin MC oil in 20w-50 will be fine, M1 Silver Cap 20w-50 is just marginally OK, squeaking by due to the fact that all 20w-50 oils are allowed, but not guaranteed, to have higher levels of ZDDP. M1 Green Cap would be a definite no, but as an “energy-saving” oil I doubt you’d find it in the correct weight anyway.

It’s all about the ZDDP levels, JASO ratings (M1/M2), and API ratings. Suitable oils that are generally less costly than the two you’ve mentioned include Castrol 4T (sometimes on sale at Amazon for <$6/qt), and Castrol GO!, which is commonly available at FLAPS like O’Reilly’s and Autozone, often on special. That availability is a plus if you need to top up or change oil on the road. There are others as well—you’re looking for a brand-name, 20w-50 wt oil that is rated SG or as close to SG as you can get—and many of those are now being sold specifically as “motorcycle oils.” Check your owner’s manual and buy oil that meets the mfg spec listed there.

Best,
DeVern

PS: why are there so many oil and tire threads and almost no threads on anti-freeze?

Thanks guys for the insight. I was just trying to get some ideas on where to go. I know a post like this can open a can of worms because of all the brands and everything.
I have a whole maintenance list I need to do over the winter. My winter list of work includes Brakes, Oil change, Transmission fluid change, Brake fluid flush, Plugs, Fuel Filter, Antifreeze Coolant Flush and Air Filter. Just been awhile since everything has been done since I picked up the bike a couple years ago according to all the services records from the original owner and it just hit 92k miles. So thanks for the advice on everything.

GTRider said:

Do NOT use the K&N filter, numerous issues have been reported with them. You’re better off buying the Mahle or Bosch filters from https://www.beemerboneyard.com/k121.html. They also offer a discount to BMWMOA members; check for the code in your ON magazine.

I

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I like Mahle filters because the OEM filter is Mahle but I don't think Beemerboneyard carries a Mahle for the K1200RS.

I won't weigh in on what oil to use, but I always use OEM filters, if the manufacture has faith in their filters quality, then why use an aftermarket? Same with air filters for me too, I don't think reusable K&N will filter air as well as a OEM paper type, for the same reasons.

I stop selling and using K&N filters. One is they told me to leave the air filters dirty they work better, two there oil filters are made in Thailand, nothing against Thailand, but I think there is better choices out there. Three I think there prices is getting out of control I think they relying on there name to sell there products just like other companies do. There is a lot better filters out there for better prices.

oil

Always use the most expensive and hard to get oil. You'll have the satisfaction of knowing that you've contributed to the fortune of the best advertiser around. Also make sure that it is labeled "gluten free", a more powerful term than CNC machined billet aluminum.
As far as using a K-N filter, then you must be of the inclination that more air flow increases performance. If this is the case then save your money and just cut the element out of the filter that you already have for maximum air flow at a minimum cost. Added advantage is that there is no element to get dirty.
Sorry Paul. I couldn't wait for April.

Any of the “branded” oils that meet spec should do you fine. I use Royal Purple in some of the 16-26hp “small” engines I have. Especially the ones that have a pull-start.
OM

1074 said:

As far as using a K-N filter, then you must be of the inclination that more air flow increases performance. If this is the case then save your money and just cut the element out of the filter that you already have for maximum air flow at a minimum cost.

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What does air flow have to do with oil filters

k1200lt00 said:

I stop selling and using K&N filters. One is they told me to leave the air filters dirty they work better, two there oil filters are made in Thailand, nothing against Thailand, but I think there is better choices out there. Three I think there prices is getting out of control I think they relying on there name to sell there products just like other companies do. There is a lot better filters out there for better prices.

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I think if some research is done, it will be found that the “best” or “optimum” (air) filter performance is achieved a ways after first installation.
OM

Just a fad!

Come on you guys, Oil and air filters are just a fad, you don't really need those things do you? I shaved .18 ounces off the weight of my bike, reduced lubrication and induction system resistance by 35% and I save $18.50 a year just by eliminating those totally unnecessary (per the internet) filters.

Oil choice is a little more detailed and you do have research it a little but the best is the recycle oil from Popeye's Fried Chicken joints, don't use that nasty old generic french fry oil as it may mess with the "carb"s on your bike.

Seriously: In my simple minded, cheap but really simple minded world I go with a factory filter, Castrol 20 W 50 for all the pre-hexhead bikes, after that I use a factory oil filter and whatever BMW recommends for that bike, its part of the dealer support system you know.

For the '06 and later bikes I figure by the time I get through all the oil additive requirements and legal crap regarding what oil can be used and then going out and finding it I would be better off stopping at the dealer getting the oil filter service kit and oil and paying the price they ask.

I can't believe I responded to an "Oil Thread"

For filters (air/fuel/oil) I use a custom cheese cloth/Levis cotton application in a small size shadow box. For oil, in my higher mileage bikes, been using non pasteurized peanut butter. For newer bikes, especially in the summer, sweet clover oil and Sherman Williams rust resistant sour cream in eggshell. YMMD.

Now on to best air in those there tires....

You really ought to try the new pumpkin spice oil. It leaves a pleasant scent when the bike backfires

Thanks all for the advice and the hard times lol. I deserve it everyone have a great new year.

k1200lt00 said:

I stop selling and using K&N filters. One is they told me to leave the air filters dirty they work better, two there oil filters are made in Thailand, nothing against Thailand, but I think there is better choices out there. Three I think there prices is getting out of control I think they relying on there name to sell there products just like other companies do. There is a lot better filters out there for better prices.

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By all means, use or don't use whatever you like. I will add that dirty filters DO work better than perfectly clean ones. You can trust me, I'm an engineer who used to work for a filter company (industrial).
Think of the paper filter element as a window screen. The pores in the paper are analogous to the gaps between the screen's wires. When the screen is clean, the air can move freely thru the gaps, as does the dirt in the air. As the dust and dirt builds up on screen, the gaps get fewer and smaller. In this condition the air flows less freely, and the contaminants being carried by that air are more likely to get caught by the smaller gap openings.
This applies to both air and oil filters, as their operational principles are the same.
The problem comes as the filters get older. Those gaps continue to close up, and if left in place too long they will eventually clog and restrict the fluid flow. Not good.
So the bottom line is that dirty filters will filter better...….right up until they don't.

meads77 said:

Just had a question what would be the best oil to use I know there are a ton of brands. I was thinking about using Royal Purple for my next oil change. I was using mobil 1 but I was just curious if it is better.
I just seeing if anyone had recommendations. I also was considering using the KN oil filter as well. Thanks for the advice. Happy Holidays

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As some one who has spend too much time cutting open oil filter cans to inspect their contents, I can tell you there is a difference.
I've cut open oil filters from my flying bricks, and from my cars. I can tell you for certain that no aftermarket filter has even contained as much filter element (paper) as is contained in the OE filter for any of my vehicles.
I've never used K&N, but have inspected Frams, Boschs, STPs, and others. In every case the OE filter (typically German vehicles) contained more filter area, sometimes significantly more.
The disclaimer is that there is more to good filtration than just filter area (the amount of paper). The quality of the filter element is an aspect I can no longer qualify, so the aftermarket brands could potentially have less filter area, but better quality paper. I'd bet against that.
It can also be argued that while aftermarket filters may not be as good as OEs, they may well be good enough, especially if changed often. Hard to argue against that.

For my money, due to the small cost involved in buying the known quality (OEs), I just buy the manufacturers' filters in bulk, so I have them on the shelf when needed.