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Thread: 2011 R1200rt winter valve adjustment

  1. #1
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    Post 2011 R1200rt winter valve adjustment

    29,000 Kilometres on bike. Checking valve adjustment. I found all the exhaust between 30to35mm and on the intake 15to18mm. My Haynes manual calls for 40-66 on exhaust and 23-43 on the intake. The bike run powerfully and quiet. I found a Youtube video that says my bike is within spec and many comments on the forum that says I should not need to do an adjustment at this low milage. What is the correct info?

  2. #2
    Registered User pappy35's Avatar
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    Your Haynes manual is WRONG! Actually, probably just one for the wrong model engine. The attachment is from the 2010-2013 RT (K26) BMW Repair Manual.

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    '13 R1200RT 90th Anniversary Edition

  3. #3
    Registered User AHD43's Avatar
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    Pap is right. Your Haynes manual is wrong.

    My Haynes manual states the same values as Pappy post. Check page 1.2 Servicing Specifications.
    "Whether you think you can...or you think you can't -- you're right"

  4. #4
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    Thank for the input. Now I can put it back together.

  5. #5

    Valve Clearances at 120,000 KMs

    Was doing my winter maintenance over the weekend. My 2010 RT is at 120,000KMs, and I was pleased to find that my valve clearances are STILL within spec, and I have not changed out any semispheres thus far. I have owned this bike since 18,000 kms (4 years and MUCH fun), and still no valve clearance adjustments required. In case anyone is interested, I'm using Shell Rotella T6 15W40 exclusively and K&N oil filters (a few BMW filters, but switched to K&N as they cost less and appear good quality).

    Happy with the results. I'll keep on riding it like I stole it.

  6. #6
    Registered User pappy35's Avatar
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    Bought mine at 6,200 miles and recently finished my third valve inspection. Two exhaust valves were right at .40mm (having grown from .38mm at the first check) while all the others have been very stable. I expect to have to shuffle some shims around, or buy a few, at the 24k service. I love how easy these are to do compared to other shim-type adjuster bikes I've had.
    '13 R1200RT 90th Anniversary Edition

  7. #7

    More Winter Maintenance

    In addition to checking the valves, I've also gone quite deep. Clutch has felt just fine, but was curious about the condition of the drive shaft u-joints and swing arm pivots, so it all came out. I was pleased to see after 120,000KMs that the drive shaft u-joints feel like new, no play, no signs of wear. They are sealed, so can't be greased, but did grease the splines and swing arm pivots, a thorough cleaning, and re-assembled everything back again. This prompted a few questions that I hope someone might have an answer to:

    1. Are the u-joints in the driveshaft rebuildable or replacable? They appear to be peened into place. Has anyone had a shop replace joints on this shaft?
    2. With 120,000KMs and no signs of wear, does anyone think putting the driveshaft back is a bad decision?
    3. Shift linkage rod has a nylon bushing as a dirt seal on each end of the rod. These are badly cracked and worn, being replaced. Normal on a 10-year old bike? Being re-greased and re-installed.
    4. Clutch shows no signs of wear or poor performance, so I'm not going to remove the trans and do anything to the clutch. No signs of oil leakage either. The right decision?

    Always appreciate everyone's advice and experience.

  8. #8
    Registered User drneo66's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marlen.padberg View Post

    1. Are the u-joints in the driveshaft rebuildable or replacable? They appear to be peened into place. Has anyone had a shop replace joints on this shaft?
    2. With 120,000KMs and no signs of wear, does anyone think putting the driveshaft back is a bad decision?


    Always appreciate everyone's advice and experience.
    I recently wen through this myself. I should probably write it up...

    Question 1: It's generally beyond what most home-mechanics are able to do, with that said Machine Service, Inc in Wisconsin has replaced the joints for several riders on other forums. Gridlock Motors/BeemerUberAllis also provides this service. These were they only two places that I could find to rebuild a driveshaft.

    Ted Porter's Beemershop sells a new, rebuild-able driveshaft , and that's the option that I went with.

    Question 2: Driveshaft life seems to be all over the place - some people only were able to get 15k miles out of a driveshaft, while others had gone 150,000 miles or more. I was able to get ~93k on my 07 RT before the joints became stiff. I'd check it often to see how it's doing, if everything feels fine, then I'd keep riding.

    Many failed driveshafts that I've seen have had a good amount of rust on them, one theory is that the rubber boot lets water into the swingarm, thereby washing out any grease in the joints. This seems to be worse in GS riders who ride their bikes in deep water.
    Current: 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2013 F800GS
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  9. #9
    Registered User jandhumphreyme's Avatar
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    Can we get the drive shaft rebuilders put into a sticky? Seems like good references to have on hand for future.
    So often times it happens that we live our lives in chains
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  10. #10
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jandhumphreyme View Post
    Can we get the drive shaft rebuilders put into a sticky? Seems like good references to have on hand for future.
    In the “Tag Cloud” search.
    OM
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  11. #11
    DennyPink
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    Quote Originally Posted by drneo66 View Post
    I recently wen through this myself. I should probably write it up...

    Question 1: It's generally beyond what most home-mechanics are able to do, with that said Machine Service, Inc in Wisconsin has replaced the joints for several riders on other forums. Gridlock Motors/BeemerUberAllis also provides this service. These were they only two places that I could find to rebuild a driveshaft.

    Ted Porter's Beemershop sells a new, rebuild-able driveshaft , and that's the option that I went with.

    Question 2: Driveshaft life seems to be all over the place - some people only were able to get 15k miles out of a driveshaft, while others had gone 150,000 miles or more. I was able to get ~93k on my 07 RT before the joints became stiff. I'd check it often to see how it's doing, if everything feels fine, then I'd keep riding.

    Many failed driveshafts that I've seen have had a good amount of rust on them, one theory is that the rubber boot lets water into the swingarm, thereby washing out any grease in the joints. This seems to be worse in GS riders who ride their bikes in deep water.
    Out of curiosity because my R1200RT has over 75,000 miles, I called "machineservice. com" in Green Bay, WI. The u-joint machinist said they replace the worn cross's and spot weld them into place. They do not machine worn yokes. Cost $260.00 for a two u-joint system. DP

  12. #12
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    drive shaft lube

    there is a adapter that looks like hypodermic needle one end and the other end connects to a grease gun this set up is used to carefully insert grease under the seal to lubricate the needle bearings in the universal joints on your drive shaft.
    peter

  13. #13

    Drive Shaft Lube

    You're telling me the joints can be lubricated even tho they are sealed? Can you point me to such a fitting?

  14. #14
    Watch This!!! junkjohn's Avatar
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    google "needle grease adaptor"
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  15. #15
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by petergsa View Post
    there is a adapter that looks like hypodermic needle one end and the other end connects to a grease gun this set up is used to carefully insert grease under the seal to lubricate the needle bearings in the universal joints on your drive shaft.
    peter
    I would pass on this. The needle (actual needle point) tool is really for the rubber seals on like an automotive ball joint. There is a “stout” needle looking adapter that was made for the concave grease fittings that were used in the center of the + on a u-joint, used due to clearance issues.
    Generally speaking, on a u-joint, the grease is applied at the center of the cross and slightly expelled out the seals in all 4 cups allowing fresh grease to do the lubricating.
    If you decide to try greasing anything withe the needle point adapter, having the grease real warm and a hand pump grease gun is the way to go.
    OM
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