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I am merely reflecting the angst being expressed by owners elsewhere who are finding maintenance frustrating without a service manual. I didn't say what I myself believed. I expressed my conviction not to buy a bike for which no service manual is available. I will have no reason to feel foolish since the manual will either be available and the new F-bikes will be a viable option or it won't and they won't be on my shopping list. You should not engage in personal denigration for no reason.

The new F-bike owners are frustrated because even a simple oil change is proving difficult. Who would have thought that, once you removed the oil plug and oil drained out, there was yet another oil plug directly above of a different size that has to be removed as well by inserting a tool through the first drain hole? Similarly those who have come up to the mileage where a valve clearance check is recommended have no instructions to follow.

I thought I saw here on the forum that the K1600’s had that duel oil plug deal :dunno
OM
 
I thought I saw here on the forum that the K1600’s had that duel oil plug deal :dunno
OM

Could well be but there is no reasonable expectation that an F-bike owner would know that and even if you did what tool would the F-bike require to remove the second plug (it isn't visible)?
 
Could well be but there is no reasonable expectation that an F-bike owner would know that and even if you did what tool would the F-bike require to remove the second plug (it isn't visible)?

I’d have to look at the owners manual. IIRC, the ‘splaination was pretty good on my F800GS. As more and more info was available, I picked the manuals up. I have the BMW maintenance disc.....my least favorite. I have the Haynes manual which is pretty good....think it took a couple of years to become available. I have the Globeriders DVD which is my favorite.
If I put all three together, along with the internet, I’m good to go.
OM
 
I’d have to look at the owners manual. IIRC, the ‘splaination was pretty good on my F800GS. As more and more info was available, I picked the manuals up. I have the BMW maintenance disc.....my least favorite. I have the Haynes manual which is pretty good....think it took a couple of years to become available. I have the Globeriders DVD which is my favorite.
If I put all three together, along with the internet, I’m good to go.
OM

Neither the F800GS nor the F850GS owner's manuals give you anything but how to check oil level, top up the oil and what oil to use.

Like you I have the BMW disc and the Haynes manual. I rely on the former much more than the latter for maintaining our two bikes and I take it along on a USB stick when on trips. I don't have the Globerider DVD but don't feel a need either.

No doubt there will be helpful people who will post videos on YouTube in the fullness of time but I find that many of those are let's say less than ideal.
 
BMW didn’t source these engines from Lorcim because it’s better than their own designs or those they sourced from Rotax in Austria. They didn’t study the Lorcim design and conclude it would be more durable or reliable, or had a better power/weight ratio (Lorcim’s engines are notoriously heavy). And they didn’t even source the engine from China because it’s cheaper so they could pass along the savings to their customers.

The only reason there is a chinese Lorcim engine in these bikes is because BMW was pressured by chinese trade officials to increase chinese content or risk having limits placed on their access to chinese markets. It’s a standard strong arm tactic chinese trade officials are increasingly employing against many manufacturers across many industries. Some manufacturers have refused to do this, others like BMW have caved to the pressure.

Apparently BMW concluded access to the markets in communist china was more important than lost sales in other markets from sourcing a chinese engine. Only time will tell.

For those who are apologists for the chinese Lorcim engines now used by BMW in their F-series bikes (F750GS, F850GS, F900s)... Imagine the shrieks of ridicule and derision that would be all over this forum if instead of BMW it was Harley Davidson that was sourcing chinese Lorcim engines for their bikes!

What if BMW decides to outsource all BMW motorcycle engines, swapping them for chinese designed and built engines? No more german-built horizontally opposed engines, or in-lines. No more austrian parallel twins. Would you feel the same sense of pride of ownership? Would you feel you were buying a German motorcycle?

I wouldn't. But if you’re fine with that, have at it. My hope is enough buyers will shun these BMW F-Series bikes with chinese Lorcim engines to make BMW reconsider their decision.


Well thank God it isn't the engine! Just that old "sense of pride" thing. Passed that hurdle back in 50's and 60's by riding all that "cheap Jap crap".
 
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Yep the K1600 has that odd double sump setup.
I hate hearing BMW is using it on other bikes.

Bikes, cars, heavy equipment, electronics, boilers (HVAC).........not really owner friendly as far as service goes- anymore. As I’m still involved in a great many “systems”, I can see the commonality between what (has been designed in) is making devices run.
In a recent remodel of a fire station, some “committee” allowed the design and approval of a totally unnecessary 4-pipe HVAC retrofit- and probably spent close to 200K to do it......the bulk of this retrofit was using Trane equipment which is top of the line. I give this example as a view to a “system” that looked wonderful on paper but-

Overly complicated
Invasive to install.
Installation inefficient and difficult.
Installer could not make the room units communicate with the thermostats.
Trane tech advised “wrong” thermostats for application....control valves could have been ruined.
An “appointment” has to be made through the Trane sales department to talk to Trane tech services.
Finally, after months, thermostats can now be used but FCU’s (fan coil units) need to be rewired.

These “advancements” are exceeding experience to work on them and keep the device operating.

On of the benefits of this forum is that there are some real talented mechanics that are willing to exchange information and ideas to not only get through some of this new technology, but keep a 25+ year old bike running- even if the parts are “hand” made.

Celebrate the mechanically inclined, help those that are not.

OM
 
Yes, Omega Man Sometimes engineers think they have all the answers in construction.They need to do some installations to come up with better solutions. A lot of times the people in the field have to redesign their stuff to make it work.
I agree.
 
Could well be but there is no reasonable expectation that an F-bike owner would know that and even if you did what tool would the F-bike require to remove the second plug (it isn't visible)?


Now you're in the know (works the same on F850 and probably the F900)....and not my write up, but appears accurate enough...


BMW F750GS OIL CHANGE

BMW Recommended Oil: BMW Motorrad ADVANTEC ULTIMATE Original BMW Engine Oil 5W-40 Synthetic Engine Oil (3 Liters).

1 x 16mm OEM Copper Crush Ring (BMW Stock # 07 11 9 963 252) Note: Replace Every Oil Change.

1 x OEM Oil Filter (BMW Stock # 11 42 7 721 779) Note: The Short Oil Filter Is Replaced By A Long Oil Filter During The Running In Check.

Note: As An Alternative You May Choose To Use Any Engine Oil That Meets The Following Standard: SAE 5W-40 API SL/JASO MA2.

Step 1: Remove M16x1.5 Drain Plug Using A T50 Torx Socket And Drain The Oil.

Step 2: Remove Sealing Ring (Copper Crush Ring).

Step 3: Remove The M10x1 Oil Filler Plug Using A 5mm Hexagon Socket And Drain The Oil. Note: This Plug Is Directly Above The Main Drain Plug And Must Be Removed To Drain All Of The Engine Oil.

Step 4: Remove The Oil Filter (Long Oil Filter Wrench BM Stock # 11 4 650)

Note: The Short Oil Filter Is Replaced By A Long Oil Filter During The Running In Check. (Short Oil Filter Wrench BMW Stock # 11 4 661).

Step 5: Clean The Oil Filter Sealing Face And Lubricate With Clean Engine Oil.

Step 6: Install New Oil Filter Using Oil Filter Wrench # 11 4 650 (Torque To 11Nm or 8.11 ft-lb).

Step 7: Install The M10x1 Oil Filler Plug Using A 5mm Hexagon Socket (Torque To 10Nm or 7.37 ft-lb).

Step 8: Install The M16x1.5 Drain Plug With New Sealing Ring (Copper Crush Ring) Using A T50 Torx Socket (Torque To 25Nm or 18.43 ft-lb).

Step 9: Remove The Oil Dipstick And Fill The Engine With Engine Oil (Engine Oil Capacity With Filter Change Is Approximately 3.0 Liters. Engine Oil Capacity Without Filter Change Is Approximately 2.7 Liters).

Step 10: Install The Oil Dipstick And Run Motorcycle For Approximately 30 Seconds To Allow Oil To Circulate Then Turn Off The Motorcycle And Add Remaining Oil. Remove The Oil Dip To Check The Oil In Accordance With The Owner’s Manual.

Note: (From Owner’s Manual)

* Only Check The Oil Level After A Longer Journey Or When The Engine Is Warm.

* Wipe The Area Around The Oil Filler Opening Clean.

* Allow The Engine To Idle Until The Fan Starts Up, Then Allow It To Idle One Minute Longer.

* Switch Off The Engine.

* Make Sure Ground Is Level And Firm And Hold Motorcycle At Operating Temperature Vertically (With Center Stand).

* Wait Five Minutes To Allow Oil To Drain Into The Oil Pan.

* Remove Oil Level Dipstick And Clean Measuring Range With A Dry Cloth.

* Fit The Oil Level Dipstick Onto The Oil Filler Opening, However Do Not Screw It In.

* Remove The Oil Level Dipstick And Check Oil Level (Oil Level Should Be Between The MIN and MAX Marks). Note: Difference Between MIN and MAX Marks Is 0.5 Liters Of Oil.

* Re-Install The Oil Dipstick When Complete.
 
Now you're in the know (works the same on F850 and probably the F900)....and not my write up, but appears accurate enough...


BMW F750GS OIL CHANGE etc.

I had seen that on the F850GS.com site as well. A fine example of owners stepping in to fill the service information void.
 
I would be temped to buy the modified K1600 plug if it's the correct size.

Both the K1600 and F850 have the same upper drain plug.
M10x8 and the same part numbers.

The F900 and F850 probably have the same upper drain plug.
 

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Now you're in the know (works the same on F850 and probably the F900)....and not my write up, but appears accurate enough...


BMW F750GS OIL CHANGE

BMW Recommended Oil: BMW Motorrad ADVANTEC ULTIMATE Original BMW Engine Oil 5W-40 Synthetic Engine Oil (3 Liters).

1 x 16mm OEM Copper Crush Ring (BMW Stock # 07 11 9 963 252) Note: Replace Every Oil Change.

1 x OEM Oil Filter (BMW Stock # 11 42 7 721 779) Note: The Short Oil Filter Is Replaced By A Long Oil Filter During The Running In Check.

Note: As An Alternative You May Choose To Use Any Engine Oil That Meets The Following Standard: SAE 5W-40 API SL/JASO MA2.

Step 1: Remove M16x1.5 Drain Plug Using A T50 Torx Socket And Drain The Oil.

Step 2: Remove Sealing Ring (Copper Crush Ring).

Step 3: Remove The M10x1 Oil Filler Plug Using A 5mm Hexagon Socket And Drain The Oil. Note: This Plug Is Directly Above The Main Drain Plug And Must Be Removed To Drain All Of The Engine Oil.

Step 4: Remove The Oil Filter (Long Oil Filter Wrench BM Stock # 11 4 650)

Note: The Short Oil Filter Is Replaced By A Long Oil Filter During The Running In Check. (Short Oil Filter Wrench BMW Stock # 11 4 661).

Step 5: Clean The Oil Filter Sealing Face And Lubricate With Clean Engine Oil.

Step 6: Install New Oil Filter Using Oil Filter Wrench # 11 4 650 (Torque To 11Nm or 8.11 ft-lb).

Step 7: Install The M10x1 Oil Filler Plug Using A 5mm Hexagon Socket (Torque To 10Nm or 7.37 ft-lb).

Step 8: Install The M16x1.5 Drain Plug With New Sealing Ring (Copper Crush Ring) Using A T50 Torx Socket (Torque To 25Nm or 18.43 ft-lb).

Step 9: Remove The Oil Dipstick And Fill The Engine With Engine Oil (Engine Oil Capacity With Filter Change Is Approximately 3.0 Liters. Engine Oil Capacity Without Filter Change Is Approximately 2.7 Liters).

Step 10: Install The Oil Dipstick And Run Motorcycle For Approximately 30 Seconds To Allow Oil To Circulate Then Turn Off The Motorcycle And Add Remaining Oil. Remove The Oil Dip To Check The Oil In Accordance With The Owner’s Manual.

Note: (From Owner’s Manual)

* Only Check The Oil Level After A Longer Journey Or When The Engine Is Warm.

* Wipe The Area Around The Oil Filler Opening Clean.

* Allow The Engine To Idle Until The Fan Starts Up, Then Allow It To Idle One Minute Longer.

* Switch Off The Engine.

* Make Sure Ground Is Level And Firm And Hold Motorcycle At Operating Temperature Vertically (With Center Stand).

* Wait Five Minutes To Allow Oil To Drain Into The Oil Pan.

* Remove Oil Level Dipstick And Clean Measuring Range With A Dry Cloth.

* Fit The Oil Level Dipstick Onto The Oil Filler Opening, However Do Not Screw It In.

* Remove The Oil Level Dipstick And Check Oil Level (Oil Level Should Be Between The MIN and MAX Marks). Note: Difference Between MIN and MAX Marks Is 0.5 Liters Of Oil.

* Re-Install The Oil Dipstick When Complete.

Looks like it's easy to lose the drain plug inside the upper sump.
I would be temped to buy the modified K1600 plug if it's the correct size.

View attachment 76586

View attachment 76587

I had seen that on the F850GS.com site as well. A fine example of owners stepping in to fill the service information void.

Just part of the value of the forum :thumb
OM
 
Looking at the parts fiche the F850 and K1600 have the same upper drain plug.
Size is M10x8 and the part numbers are the same.
I'm guessing the F900 plug is the same.

Here's a picture of the F850 oil pan.
dbvis-5985188393740358593.gif
 
So is the idea of the second drain plug, to drain out old oil that would otherwise be trapped in the crankcase sump? In other words, to allow all the used oil to be drained rather than allow half a pint (?? or so) of old oil to remain in the engine?

If so, it may be a nuisance, but it does seem like a worthy objective.
 
So is the idea of the second drain plug, to drain out old oil that would otherwise be trapped in the crankcase sump? In other words, to allow all the used oil to be drained rather than allow half a pint (?? or so) of old oil to remain in the engine?

If so, it may be a nuisance, but it does seem like a worthy objective.

It may be a "worthy objective" but it still a crappy design. I am, however, reminded that with the 2001 F650 Dakar I owned the first step for an oil change described in the Owners Manual and Repair Manual was, "Remove the left front turn signal." Sometimes the vaunted German engineering is not all it is cracked up to be.

If the inner sump is needed, a simple ball valve would suffice. "Insert screwdriver or similar special tool :). Press upward on ball valve. Watch oil drain."
 
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FWIW BMW describes the F850GS oiling thusly:

"To prevent unwanted churning losses and to ensure maximum operational safety, even under tough offroad conditions, the engine of the new F 750 GS and F 850 GS features dry-sump lubrication, which does not require a separate tank for engine oil. Any oil escaping from the main bearings is collected in a drain that is sealed off from the oil sump.

In this area, the lubricant is constantly pumped away by the oil pump and transported to the gearbox housing before it runs without pressure into the oil sump. The oil-feed pump then supplies the oil circulation from here. Its great offroad character is reflected in the F 850 GS’s underside protection, which protects the oil sump from any damage."
 
The K1300 was a dry sump engine with a oil tank.
You drained the oil tank then drained a small about of oil from the oil pan.
I don't remember how much was held in the pan, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 quart.
 
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