Airhead handling, never good but can be better???HOW

Hagon, IKON and the like are good replacements for clapped out OEM bits, but they are essentially modern replicas of 50 year old technology.
Replace suspension on a 40 year old bike with OEM parts = no change in handling.*

I chose to replace the suspension on 2 Airheads with more expensive modern technology (Ohlins, RaceTech & Works) because I was riding each about 6,000 miles a year.
Most of those miles were on mountain and desert roads for 5 to 10 hours at a time, and feel that it was money well spent.

Knowing what I now know about Ohlins and Works maintenance costs, I will consider Yacugar, TFX & Wilbers for replacements.

I own/have owned several modern bikes capable of speed well over 130 mph.
Last time I checked, racetracks are good for that.

In your area Tom Cutter's the dude to contact if you want an Airhead to handle and preform better.
On the West Coast I've used Ted Porter at BeemerShop for suspension and transmission bits and pieces.

Bill

* The bike will handle better than with the old shocks, but not much if any better than when it left the factory.

Edit; I am not implying that my Airheads handle like a modern bike. It is my experience that during longer rides the higher end adjustable shocks preform better at keeping the tires on the road.

Thanks for posting this thread. I'm just getting started on a R60/5, and may install the triple tree upgrade. I built a R75/5 a couple of years ago. I did everything stock and by the book, except the rear shocks (Ikons were cheaper than new stock), and I was a little disappointed in the handling. When you get to thinking about it, it may be because the top of the tree is flexing. I especially noticed it on rural, paved, rough roads.

Front fork mod

Race Tech Gold valve in my front forks was the best bang for the buck I ever did to my /5.
Highly recommended.
Gator

I installed Gold Valves on the /6 after replacing the shocks with Works and realizing the just rebuilt forks in stock form weren’t up to snuff.
Then, until riding mountain twisties thought I had wasted money.
Bill

Stanley Waterhead Steamer.

A reminder to those seeking to improve handling of 1969-1973 /5 BMW Motorcycles

The short wheel base /5 series motorcycle is the subject of a discussion on handling, frame geometry, suspension and the engineering principles involved in its development and production in an excellent book by designers/racers/authors Vic Willoby and Tony Foal titled ‘Motorcycle Handling and Chassis Design’. Their technical discussions regarding /5 series chassis are an important detailed critique of the design and its shortcomings with numerous examples of how each engineering compromise led to the issues many of you describe and the attempts you make, the expense you incur and the lengths to which you go to improve a motorcycle which essentially defies improvement. Spend your money on a better BMW or on making your /5 the reliable, pleasant. classy little Sunday afternoon around town putt that it can be.

Duane Ausherman was probably the "point of the spear" when it came to the /5 wobbles. From my discussions with him, BMW importers often came to him through the "side door" to ask his opinion on various issues. Here is his length discussion about the /5 as well as the early wobble issue:

https://w6rec.com/a-wobble-controversy/

My '73 75/5 is only my 2nd airhead. On my first, a '72 60/5, I serviced the forks and replaced the spring with new OEM units from my local dealer .. so/so and still too soft. On my 75/5 I serviced the forks (retained the springs) and replaced the steering head bearings about a month ago .. better but still much to be desired. Yesterday I installed a Toaster Tan top triple clamp, Wilbers springs and added oil to the Snowbum recommended 17.25 inches from top of fork when fully extended. Quick test ride last night told me it is finally good! Jumped a few curbs, did some hard braking at stop signs, found a few curves .. more testing on the to do list today, but I am very pleased. Wish I could tell you which item gave the most bang for the buck with yesterdays work ..

ccolwell said:

I would use RaceTech straight wound springs. I did like the Gold Valve Emulators

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The Racetech springs and the cartridge emulators, along with a good rear shock and the Toaster Tan top clamp will transform your bike.

Vintage stuff

As long as you realize that you're starting out with mid-60s technology then go with the offered modifications. Just remember that you'll spend more money modifying your /5 than you would by just getting a modern bike, and the /5 end product still won't be as proficient as the newer bike.

Ten years ago purchased a '76 R90/6, with 33,000 on the odometer for $1500.00, spent about $600.00 to get it roadworthy. (low S bars included)
Then went out of my mind spending a grand on suspension upgrades and then a Heinrich tank from a friend for another $1200.00.
60,000 miles later, the ignition is Boyer electronic, and the Siebenrock 1000cc kit and new clutch have been installed. ($2500.00)
Add the usual maintenance costs like timing chain, cables, tires, seal replacement etc. and that doubles the cost.
I enjoy it!


Please excuse me while I motor over to the folks that have wooden and fiberglass boats to let them know that carbon fiber is the way to go!
Bill

Good-Better-Best Handling

Airhead handling; never good. I started in 1984 on a 1971 R50/5, completly original with 724 miles on the od. Rode it about 15,000 miles, rebuilt the front forks, added the BMW heavy duty springs and replaced the steering head bearings. At the same time I addeded new rear shock damper and springs. Thought it handled ok for a 15 year old bike. My problem was a slow bike.

Behind the Handling Curve

Gotta fairly decent '74 R90/6 in '88. Rode it hard to endless rallies, rides, runs. Wore it slapdab out on handling. Again fork rebuild, now Progressive springs, new steering head bearings and Koni rear shocks. Wore those out. Moved on to a '87 K100RT. Quite a bit better, wore the suspension out of it. Again, fork rebuild, new Progressive springs, new steering bearings, new 420 Progressive rear shock. Better, but with a full fairing and loaded for camping and touring, it was a handfull. Still it was an improvement over the stock setup, but nothing to write home about.

I saw all the other BMW setups all the upgrades and up fits on all the different models. Finally moved on to what I thought was getting close to state of the art handling, a '94 R1100RS. Pretty good actually paralever, telelever, cast wheels with radial tires. Rode the piss out of it.
Again after some miles suspension seemed to be getting a little weak. My buddy Leo Goff did some tweaking on it and I added a nice set of Ohlens front and rear. The best handling I had to date. What I learned about suspension and handling was keep your bike parts up to date, dialed in and serviced properly.
Enjoy your bike's riding style for the era it was designed and built.

barryg said:

Enjoy your bike's riding style for the era it was designed and built.

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it was a real eye opener for me the first time I went touring on my R1150RS, after riding an airhead for 15 years. And the airhead was heavily modified.

Each series of BMW just gets better.

This should be the final answer. (but won’t be)

I saw this when trying to think of what to do next!
Bill
View attachment 76879

Edit; The question as I see it is, can Airhead handling be better, how? It is not how to make an Airhead handle better than a new bike.

tanker4me said:

This should be the final answer...

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Wow.