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1990 K1100LT Seat Height
- Thread starter oldcarman
- Start date
6322
Member
Besides the custom seat option, you might consider peeling back the cover and removing some foam. If you do, the places that affect your ability to establish good footing are the points where your inner thighs make contact with the seat, while at a stop, with feet on the ground. Use contact cement and a heat gun to put the cover back down tight. Good luck with your project Jim.
Jim,
Frey Daytona M-Star boots. Super high quality boot with a 60cm heel INSIDE the boot. They look normal on the outside, so there is no Frankenstein boot look. Smaller sizes are called the Lady Star, but they are the same boot. My 5'4" wife LOVES them.
Plus, they are currently on sale at Helimot who is a great distributer of these boots and several other very good products. He used to be in the Bay Area making high quality leathers and gloves for the racing community, but moved to Oregon a few years ago.
You can also look at a shorter rear shock (look at Progressive if you want to save). Also you can raise the fork tubes in the triple clamps a bit. They will hit the bottom of the handle bars after about 3/8". If you need to go further, I would suggest the barbacks from A&S Cycles. If you can't find them, shoot me a PM. Remember, when lowering a bike, lower both ends the same amount so you don't throw the handleing off (rake and trail and all that good stuff).
As Gary said, the most critical part of getting your feet to the ground is the width of the nose of the seat. There is a saying; " Sitting on an early K bike is like straddling an ironing board". That is because the nose of the seat is wide right where a smaller person would need to put their legs straight down. The seat is wide because the frame rails below the seat are wide. Try taking the seat off and sitting on the frame BEFORE cutting the seat to make sure that any seat trimming will yield the desired results. My wife still couldn't touch the ground because the width made her legs go out to the side too much. Many modifications led to a 28" saddle height on her K75S.
Frey Daytona M-Star boots. Super high quality boot with a 60cm heel INSIDE the boot. They look normal on the outside, so there is no Frankenstein boot look. Smaller sizes are called the Lady Star, but they are the same boot. My 5'4" wife LOVES them.
Plus, they are currently on sale at Helimot who is a great distributer of these boots and several other very good products. He used to be in the Bay Area making high quality leathers and gloves for the racing community, but moved to Oregon a few years ago.
You can also look at a shorter rear shock (look at Progressive if you want to save). Also you can raise the fork tubes in the triple clamps a bit. They will hit the bottom of the handle bars after about 3/8". If you need to go further, I would suggest the barbacks from A&S Cycles. If you can't find them, shoot me a PM. Remember, when lowering a bike, lower both ends the same amount so you don't throw the handleing off (rake and trail and all that good stuff).
As Gary said, the most critical part of getting your feet to the ground is the width of the nose of the seat. There is a saying; " Sitting on an early K bike is like straddling an ironing board". That is because the nose of the seat is wide right where a smaller person would need to put their legs straight down. The seat is wide because the frame rails below the seat are wide. Try taking the seat off and sitting on the frame BEFORE cutting the seat to make sure that any seat trimming will yield the desired results. My wife still couldn't touch the ground because the width made her legs go out to the side too much. Many modifications led to a 28" saddle height on her K75S.
Remember that lowering a bike makes it extremely difficult to put it on the centre stand (unless the stand is shortened). I had my K100 lowered a mere half inch years ago and it is impossible (for me) to put it on the centre stand when loaded and touring. This winter I am having it restored to it's original height.
