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R 1200 RT (2011) starts but shuts down after 1 second.

ranger46

New member
Greetings,
I just replaced the clutch in my my 2011 RT (62,000 miles) and after reassembly of the RT, it will shut down after approximately 1 second even though it easily starts.
1. GS 911 scan performed today shows no codes.

2. The bike willingly starts and revs up to about 2000 RPM then drops to 700 -800 RPM then quits. all in approximately 1 to 2 seconds. This sequence has been repeated about 8-9 times in the past two days with no changes in the bike behavior. No stumbling when the engine stops - it quits as if the ignition was turned off.

3. Today I removed all the plastic and fuel tank to check wiring connections, fuel tank connectors, cable routing etc. Attempts to restart resulting in the same 1 second run then quit as before.

During the clutch R&R, the aft half of the frame was removed, the gearbox removed, clutch pack / seals replaced. The throttle bodies were displaced and the two electrical connectors on the top of each throttle body were disconnected. The fuel injector and the throttle cable were not disconnected.

Seeing as the bike was running well before the clutch R&R, it is highly likely that something was disturbed or disconnected during the clutch R&R. but today, despite going over each connector and doing the GS 911 scan, I have had no success.

I am hoping that someone else on the forum has resolved a similar issue and can offer me some ideas what to check or do next

Thanks
Bill in Tacoma
 
Air in the fuel system?

I've experienced something similar before with removal of a fuel tank, and introduction of a bit of air in the pressurized fuel system lines. In this case, a few minutes of run time (2 or 3) remove the air and things return to normal. I hope your issue is that simple. Keep it running (partial throttle) and let it warm up a bit.

Whatever the solution is, let us know...
 
i would look at the fuel tank connections again...both the supply and return fittings (maybe an o-ring is tweaked) and the electrical connections (possible bent pin)...

good luck...guess i got lucky when i did my clutch on my 13RT...purred like a kitten when all buttoned back up...:scratch

keeps us posted on your progress please...:thumb
 
This sounds like it might be a Hall Effect Sensor (HES) issue. The computer initiates the fuel pump with key on, but it takes pulses from the HES to keep it running. Perchance a connector is dislodged.
 
Might try bypassing the fuel pump controller. The computer should be changing from the three second direct prime to letting the controller run the pump after start up. Several articles on line about how to bypass the controller and run the pump directly from the battery.
 
Thank you all for the possible failure routes and suggestions for how to remedy them.

Marlen - so far I haven’t been able to get the bike to run more than a couple of seconds?? I’ll try to keep running but it stops as if the kick stand was deployed in gear.

Paul and Winn - I’ll recheck the connectors and the Gs 911 read out for Hall effect sensor

Beemerchuck and Paul - both of you mentioned the ECU switching over to a different “program” seconds after the bike starts. I have seen the fuel pump controller issues mentioned elsewhere - my FPC is the black version and appears to be original to the bike. I’ll check to see if I can jumper to the fuel pump without the blue connector.

Thanks again. I’ll check the suggestions and update the thread.
 
Your symptoms are not typical, but presumably you disconnected the battery during the clutch work, so...

Anytime the battery has been disconnected you need to let the computer "relearn" the throttle position. Ignition on (without starting), open the throttle fully, return to the idle position, repeat twice more, ignition off. Ignition on, start as normal.

If you've already tried this and the bike is still shutting down, will the bike run if you hold the throttle just off idle while starting?
 
Jumpering around the fuel pump controller seemed to have no effect on the bike’s behavior. I will try again tomorrow.

The battery was physically removed from the bike as one of the first steps in the clutch R&R. It’s fully charged and the bike starts instantly only stop running 1 to 2 seconds later.

I have done the relearning process with the throttle but will do it again tomorrow afternoon.
 
This afternoon I basically went back to every wiring connector or sensor that had been disconnected or otherwise disturbed during the clutch R&R last week. Each was inspected, sprayed with contact cleaner, then reconnected. After that the R1200 reluctantly was able to keep running - about 10 minutes total. Does not really idle yet but thats tomorrow's project.

While I am happy that the bike is more or less running, I am frustrated that I have little real idea as to what the problem (s) were that caused the no-run issue over the past several days. Most of the problem is me in that I learned auto mechanics in the late 60s and early 70s in the era of point/coil ignitions and carburetor based fuel systems. I do not have a head for electronic systems.

Anyways I wanted to thank everyone who offered suggestions - by tracking down the suggestions I learned more about my R1200 - or least where the components are on the bike and engine.
 
When you say "reluctantly able to keep running" was that a continuous idle or the run 2 or 3 second then stop that you were experiencing before? Also when the bike was idling was it a stable idle, sputtering or surging?
 
Definitely not a steady idle - rising and falling on its own plus me constantly varying the throttle to keep it running. I have volunteer work all day Saturday so Sunday will be the next time I can look at it.
I will look at the various posts regarding poor R12 idling to get some idea what to do next.
 
Your symptoms are not typical, but presumably you disconnected the battery during the clutch work, so...

Anytime the battery has been disconnected you need to let the computer "relearn" the throttle position. Ignition on (without starting), open the throttle fully, return to the idle position, repeat twice more, ignition off. Ignition on, start as normal.

If you've already tried this and the bike is still shutting down, will the bike run if you hold the throttle just off idle while starting?

^^^THIS^^^

I had a similar problem today. Unsteady high idle followed by a sputtering shutdown within a few 10s of seconds or so. I had recently disconnected the battery to wire in my heated gear port and so I started sniffing around and quickly realized I neglected to properly tighten the battery ground. I secured it but it was still doing it. Hmmm...

Ignition off. Throttle to full open. Ignition on (no start). Cycled it back and forth a few times (more than three I think). Shut off and restarted. Idled and ran perfectly.
 
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Definitely not a steady idle - rising and falling on its own plus me constantly varying the throttle to keep it running. I have volunteer work all day Saturday so Sunday will be the next time I can look at it.
I will look at the various posts regarding poor R12 idling to get some idea what to do next.

Couple things I would check;
1. Suction pipe between airbox and throttle body, make sure that the pipe is seated correctly and the clamps are on correctly with no air gaps or potential for leaks.
2. Verify that the throttle cable or cables going into the cable distributor box have no binding and is going fully closed.
3. Verify that both throttle cables out of the cable distributor box are seated correctly and not binding or keeping the throttle bodies partly open.
 
Pappy and Jan D,
I re-installed the 2 Oeticker clamps on either side of the throttle body but couldn't get the airbox clamp installed and replaced it with a traditional worm gear hose clamp. All of the clamps seem to be tight. ?? I did the tab alignment of the throttle body into the intake manifold runner prior re-installing the Oetiker clamps on either side of the bike.

I will check all of the cables from the cable splitter box for proper seating. I have not touched the idle setting screws.

After i check the cables tomorrow I plan to redo the adaptive settings again and the throttle positioning procedure.

thank you very much for the suggestions and guidance.

Bill
 
Those Oetiker clamps are a bear for me, I finally broke down and ordered a pair of specialty pliers to work with them, some guys can get them on and off with pump pliers or long nose pliers, I'm to ham fisted apparently. I don't have any experience using worm screws clamps in place of them but I would recommend you order the correct clamps, Max BMW has them for $4.00 or so each, and they seal better than the worm screw clamps. Glad to hear you didn't touch any screws on the throttle body, don't, your bike was running before you disassembled it, it will run again, just need to find out what component is not going back together the same as before.
 
Those Oetiker clamps are a bear for me, I finally broke down and ordered a pair of specialty pliers to work with them, some guys can get them on and off with pump pliers or long nose pliers, I'm to ham fisted apparently. I don't have any experience using worm screws clamps in place of them but I would recommend you order the correct clamps, Max BMW has them for $4.00 or so each, and they seal better than the worm screw clamps. Glad to hear you didn't touch any screws on the throttle body, don't, your bike was running before you disassembled it, it will run again, just need to find out what component is not going back together the same as before.

You're not the only one. I bought the special pliers too when I replaced my clutch.

I believe that having the right tool for the right job makes it a lot easier (And enjoyable)


YMMV
 
Shut down

2 times in many years had the exact problem . Both times fuel delivery system problem. Once sucking air. Due to a tiny crack in In a copper fuel line no leak sucking air. Next time a bad pet cock.
Usually the simple things
 
This afternoon on the advice of Dirtrider (BMW Sport Touring forum), I cleared the adaptive values again and went through the reset process. I also did the throttle reset process as well. The bike is able to run on its own now with no continual throttle adjustments but the idle is about 1800 rpm.

It feels like a bound up throttle cable or an air leak. .??

Tomorrow the gas tank will be removed once again in order to check cable routing or binding?? I also plan opening cable splitter box to see if there are any obvious problems with the cable ends.

I checked the air tube clamps - they seem to airtight. There are oetiker clamps on either side of the throttle body and a screw type hose clamp securing the air tube to the air box. I’ll look again tomorrow.

Thanks again for suggestions and encouragement- I am definitely making progress with the help of this forum and Dirtrider of the BMW Sport Touring forum.
 
05bigray
In your reply you mentioned having an air leak causing your bikes rough running.. do you recall where the air leak was or what component was creating the leak.
Thanks
Bill
 
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