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Thread: R1100R fuel filter and in tank hose replacement

  1. #16
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    Beemer Boneyard's hose appears to be too long, I trimmed the straight hose ends to just the width of the clamp, and the other end of the filter is as close as I could get the ends together, but the float is impeded by the corrugated U hose. Looking at it, it appears my low fuel yellow light will turn on early, or not at all.

    hose.jpg

  2. #17
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    That's why I use the Holley hose.


    BTW those clamps look like they have not been tightened.
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  3. #18
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    I have a Holley hose coming next week...... and there was no reason to tighten the clamps.
    Well this confirms my doubts about the Beemer Boneyard kit, and this is why I started this thread.
    I'm glad I replaced the filter, it was dated 2006, and I have learned about my bike.
    My garage is going to smell like gas for a couple of days, I am going to turn off anything electric right now

    I do want to replace the sock, I believe it just pulls off. The replacement sock has 2 dimples, and there is a note to gently file a 180 degree area for the dimples to hang on too.
    I don't know if the stock sock crews on or has dimples.

    Actually, I could put it together right now, the stock U hose and sock appear to be in good shape after all these years.
    I don't see me doing this again!
    Last edited by cam_on_van_isle; 12-15-2019 at 03:41 AM.

  4. #19
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Even though the filter - and a few other pipes - have barbs on them, YES you tighten (not over-tighten...) the clamps because the system is under pressure.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    Even though the filter - and a few other pipes - have barbs on them, YES you tighten (not over-tighten...) the clamps because the system is under pressure.
    I realized after my comment he doing a mockup, thats why the clamps were loose
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  6. #21
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    That makes sense... I jumped the gun, he did say he has parts coming in.

  7. #22
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    Id call the entire formed rubber hose a mistaken design from the get-go. BMW wants $49.15 for the bent hose in my brick-k bike. Im surprised no one in the aftermarket is selling a simple U-bend of steel tubing in the correct diameter, with swaged ends. A couple of short lengths of submersible hose would finish the job and largely eliminate the split hose potential. At a target price around $25 for a one-time solution there ought to be plenty of room to make a profit, Id think.

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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTRider View Post
    I’d call the entire formed rubber hose a mistaken design from the get-go. BMW wants $49.15 for the bent hose in my brick-k bike. I’m surprised no one in the aftermarket is selling a simple U-bend of steel tubing in the correct diameter, with swaged ends. A couple of short lengths of submersible hose would finish the job and largely eliminate the split hose potential. At a target price around $25 for a one-time solution there ought to be plenty of room to make a profit, I’d think.

    Best,
    DeVern
    How can you beat less than $10 for the Holley hose?
    No need for metal and 2 more clamps/connections.
    Not to mention making the whole shebang longer.
    KISS principle applies.
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  9. #24
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    well, I got everything back together, turned the key on, with the stop engine kill switch on to not run the pump dry, and the yellow fuel light did not turn on.... very disappointed.
    I added about 3 liters of fuel to the tank, and the low fuel light does not come on.... so I guess I have to take it apart again... perhaps one of the vent tubes is in the way of the float.
    Once I get it taken apart again, is it permissible to have the plate in hand, and plug it into the bike and manually move the float to test the low fuel light? I can always test it with my meter for resistance.
    I was very careful with the float assembly when I had it out, perhaps I should just add more fuel and really get the float to really float, but my bike is isn't insured right now, so I can't ride it and consume gas. The yellow low fuel light used to reliably light solid at 250 km.

    I used the 9mm fuel injection clamps on the connection on the underside of the plate and the vent tubes, and they were too tight, in that application would continuous tension clamps be permissible? It is a low pressure connection. The CTC clamps would be reusable and easier to manipulate.

    I have a 1100r not a GS, from what I have seen in my research, my tank is not as bulbous.

  10. #25
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    Most likely something in the tank as it worked before you were in there.

    Is the low fuel lamp operational? Short the white wire from the bike side of the tank plug to ground. The lamp should light immediately upon ignition switched on.
    If the ignition is already on then a time delay of a minute or two will happen (damping relay operating)

    To test the float:
    The white wire on the pump late is low fuel float with connects to the brown (ground) on an empty tank.
    Make sure the float moves freely. This can be checked with an ohmmeter at the tank plug.


    As far as the internal vent lines go, cut back 1/2" for a fresh surface and make sure they fit tight on the plate nipples. Then secure with a medium black Zip tie and cut the tag flush.
    It's all you need, there is negligible pressure on the vent lines which is actually aiding to hold them on.
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  11. #26
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    I think there is a delay for the low fuel light, preventing it to flicker when the fuel level is is at the in between stage. How long did you test it for? Also make sure the ground circuit and plug connections are are good.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by drost View Post
    I think there is a delay for the low fuel light, preventing it to flicker when the fuel level is is at the in between stage. How long did you test it for? Also make sure the ground circuit and plug connections are are good.
    Previous post explains how the damping relay works.
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  13. #28
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    Thank you Reto for your troubleshooting tips, the circuit to my low fuel yellow light works, and the rheostat on the bench tests fine. I must have bent the float arm when I took it out. If you see the pic on the top of page 2 I was wondering why the float was impeded by the U hose. The angle is wrong.
    I will carefully form the float arm and I am confident I will get this working correctly.

  14. #29
    DO NOT bend the float arm. Not yet, at least. The problem is the hose is longer than OEM so sticks out further in the curved position and impinges on the float. Shorten the hose, leaving just enough flat at each end for the clamp. It should then clear the float.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
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  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    DO NOT bend the float arm. Not yet, at least. The problem is the hose is longer than OEM so sticks out further in the curved position and impinges on the float. Shorten the hose, leaving just enough flat at each end for the clamp. It should then clear the float.
    What Paul says.
    FYI the float arm steel is very rigid, it will not accidentally bend very easily.

    I would confirm the board traces are clean - polish with a pencil erasor. Then make sure the wiper button is clean. I use a thin 1/4" strip of 600 grit emery, lay under the button and move the arm back and forth. Do not use the emery on the board.
    '
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