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R1100R fuel filter and in tank hose replacement

cam_on_van_isle

cam_on_van_isle

Member
Hello,
I purchased Beemer Boneyard's Flexible In-Tank Fuel hose kit.
Product Description
Set of 2 10" long flexible nylon fuel lines with 4 clamps. Suitable for use inside the fuel tank. Meets SAE 30R10 specs and can be bent into a U-shape without kinking which makes it the perfect replacemnet for all BMW in- tank high pressure fuel lines. NOT meant to replace the smaller diameter longer vent lines inside the tank. Perfect for R850/1100/1150, K75/100/1100/1200/1300 bikes and also R1200 series bikes.

I have not removed the tank, but looking at Youtubes of the high-pressure lines, there is a U shaped pipe from the outflow of the filter, but it appears to be a lot less than 10" of pipe.
I can't see where you would need 2 of them....

Is this the wrong kit for my bike?
 
Not totally familiar w/ this but check a few of the threads in the Similar Threads pane below.
 
Tank Kit

I looked at that kit, could have saved some money but it’s a pain in the ass to change the In tank parts, not difficult but a pain and with the chance of stuff getting in the way of fuel level float and messing up gas gauge and low fuel warning light so. I just sucked it up and purchased OEM and tried to forget that I paid $40 or somewhere close to that for that little U shaped hose.
 
romulanremus said:
View attachment 76449
Maybe three or four inches tops?

Photo courtesy of dirtrider over on BMW Sport Touring site.
Click to expand...

is that a dealer only part?
I don't think you would want to buy some gasoline immerse able line and just bend it.

I do have the correct filter, sock, the plate o ring, and the clamps, (not radiator style)
My bike is getting on 22 years old, so I do want to have a look at the internal pipes and replace if there is any question.

I just saw 179212's post, thank you for confirming my suspicions.
 
The ends of the Beemer Boneyard hoses can be trimmed to a shorter length if desired, so you can shorten the overall size of the “U” to more closely match the overpriced OEM hose.

Best,
DeVern
 
I make an effort to use only non-ethanol gas. Rubber bits and floats in my Airhead carbs last for years without deteriorating. Fuel hoses in my R1100RT stay flexible and don't show any signs of breakdown, inside or out. I replaced that U hose inside my tank at around 12 years, just because I was having an unknown problem and went into the tank so I changed it. The 12 year old U hose was still in good shape. Six years later, a failed fuel pump had me in there so I went ahead and replaced the U hose again, just because I was changing the pump. The old (6 yrs) U hose was pretty much in perfect condition. I hate the prices BMW is asking for this part, but it isn't available in anything similar outside of BMW.
 
Thank you Reto
I see from the Holley specs the 12-728 is 136mm long, 5.35 inches
The Beemer Boneyard one is 10 inches, the corrugated length is 4.5 inches, so with some trimming, I am sure what I have will work.
The Beemer Boneyard kit included two 3.5 inch smooth tubes for the other ends, which of course I can trim to size.
 
Last edited:
Cut the 3.5” tubes in half—the length will be very close to what you need. With 2 long tubes in the kit and 4 cut lengths from the shorter pipes you have stock for an immediate replacement now and another down the road.

Best,
DeVern
 
cam_on_van_isle said:
Thank you Reto
I see from the Holley specs the 12-728 is 136mm long, 5.35 inches
The Beemer Boneyard one is 10 inches, the corrugated length is 4.5 inches, so with some trimming, I am sure what I have will work.
The Beemer Boneyard kit included two 3.5 inch smooth tubes for the other ends, which of course I can trim to size.
Click to expand...

I use the BMW 8mm NBR/NBR (SAE30R10) for the straights. I buy it by the metre. Works out to just over $2.00 a piece
 
JALAIMO146577 said:
Is this all serviceable by removing the fill cap mount?
Click to expand...

No, you don’t disturb that. You’ll need to remove the tank to gain access to the round plate that mounts the pump, filter, and fuel guage. The basic procedure is outlined here. Note that the o-ring which seals the plate to the tank will expand markedly if it gets fuel on it-and will NOT go back into it’s groove unless left to dry out for a couple days. Best to have a new o-ring on hand.

Best,
DeVern
 
Fuel Filter

If you have things taken apart I would replace vent hoses in tank at same time, than you could take gas cap off:)
 
Beemer Boneyard's hose appears to be too long, I trimmed the straight hose ends to just the width of the clamp, and the other end of the filter is as close as I could get the ends together, but the float is impeded by the corrugated U hose. Looking at it, it appears my low fuel yellow light will turn on early, or not at all.

hose.jpg
 
I have a Holley hose coming next week...... and there was no reason to tighten the clamps.
Well this confirms my doubts about the Beemer Boneyard kit, and this is why I started this thread.
I'm glad I replaced the filter, it was dated 2006, and I have learned about my bike.
My garage is going to smell like gas for a couple of days, I am going to turn off anything electric right now :)

I do want to replace the sock, I believe it just pulls off. The replacement sock has 2 dimples, and there is a note to gently file a 180 degree area for the dimples to hang on too.
I don't know if the stock sock crews on or has dimples.

Actually, I could put it together right now, the stock U hose and sock appear to be in good shape after all these years.
I don't see me doing this again! :)
 
Last edited:
Even though the filter - and a few other pipes - have barbs on them, YES you tighten (not over-tighten...) the clamps because the system is under pressure.
 
Pauls1150 said:
Even though the filter - and a few other pipes - have barbs on them, YES you tighten (not over-tighten...) the clamps because the system is under pressure.
Click to expand...

I realized after my comment he doing a mockup, thats why the clamps were loose
 
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