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Factory Low Suspension vs. Aftermarket

After having to replace a leaking ESA shock on a 1200Gs, i came to the conclusion that Manual Suspension Adjust is preferable and certainly more reliable. On a 700gs with low suspension, there’s quite a bit of rear preload adjustment available (using the tool found under the seat), and damping can be finely controlled by the screw near the lower mounting eye on the shock. Easy to compensate for wear and no need to settle for the fixed settings or complications of ESA.

Does anyone know if the computer needs to be re-flashed to allow conversion to non-ESA and not throw a code?
 
After having to replace a leaking ESA shock on a 1200Gs, i came to the conclusion that Manual Suspension Adjust is preferable and certainly more reliable. On a 700gs with low suspension, there’s quite a bit of rear preload adjustment available (using the tool found under the seat), and damping can be finely controlled by the screw near the lower mounting eye on the shock. Easy to compensate for wear and no need to settle for the fixed settings or complications of ESA.

Does anyone know if the computer needs to be re-flashed to allow conversion to non-ESA and not throw a code?

I don't know the answer to your question about re-flashing, but your observations about ESA v. Manual Suspension Adjustment are helpful - thanks.

ESA isn't a dealbreaker for me one way or the other. I'm more concerned about the lost payload capacity with the factory-low-suspension. But maybe I shouldn't be?

I weigh around 150, plus riding gear and would also like to be able to carry full camping gear etc for touring without concern. Including on fireroads and gravel (but nothing seriously technical.) It's unlikely I will be riding "two-up" very often, and doubtful ever doing that with much gear (maybe a change of clothes for an overnight or two at a lodge??)

So in the opinion of the experienced touring riders here, considering my circumstances, would you want to be limited to a 350 lbs payload capacity?

.
 
Some companies that sell rear shocks also sell dummy plugs that terminate the connection where the shock was and fool the computer into thinking the ESA shock is still present. Touratech comes to mind but don't quote me on that, maybe wiburs? I know Wilburs offers kits to replace ESA shocks for most BMWs that reuse the electronics from you bike and fit them to a brand new rebuildable shock.
The newer ESA setups are different from the old ones that basically just turned the screw for you to a preset configuration. The newer setups are dynamic and adjust on the fly based on road conditions and the IMU in the bike. You still choose if you want a softer or harder setting and then the bike makes adjustments within that range to keep things planted. The older ESA systems never caught my attention, but the new semi-active ones certainly do.
 
Some companies that sell rear shocks also sell dummy plugs that terminate the connection where the shock was and fool the computer into thinking the ESA shock is still present. Touratech comes to mind but don't quote me on that, maybe wiburs? I know Wilburs offers kits to replace ESA shocks for most BMWs that reuse the electronics from you bike and fit them to a brand new rebuildable shock.
The newer ESA setups are different from the old ones that basically just turned the screw for you to a preset configuration. The newer setups are dynamic and adjust on the fly based on road conditions and the IMU in the bike. You still choose if you want a softer or harder setting and then the bike makes adjustments within that range to keep things planted. The older ESA systems never caught my attention, but the new semi-active ones certainly do.

That's interesting. And what is the rough cut-off for old vs. new ESA systems? Is there a certain year (2016 - 2017 - 2018?) or does it depend entirely on which model we are talking about?
 
Pretty sure it only began on the F series with the 750/850 platform, and now the 900 as well. It trickled down from the higher end bikes that already had it. The specific wording is "Dynamic ESA" not just "ESA". The bikes have a travel sensor on the swing arm that tracks the movement and make adjustments as needed that cycles at what I've heard is 100Hz. My 900XR has it and even though it's just the rear, it works pretty damn good.
 
Pretty sure it only began on the F series with the 750/850 platform, and now the 900 as well. It trickled down from the higher end bikes that already had it. The specific wording is "Dynamic ESA" not just "ESA". The bikes have a travel sensor on the swing arm that tracks the movement and make adjustments as needed that cycles at what I've heard is 100Hz. My 900XR has it and even though it's just the rear, it works pretty damn good.

How would you know if something broke and it stopped working?
Would you expect a bouncy ride or excessive harshness?

Some suspensions are pretty good even without computer intervention, and some aren’t.
 
I'm willing to bet it would throw a code if it doesn't receive the expected response from the controller in the shock. The tech has been around for long enough that it's not 'new' and should be considered reliable at this point. It's also not a BMW only thing, most major brands have some version of this on their higher end bikes and just like everything else, it's been in the automotive world for even longer.
 
.... I'm more concerned about the lost payload capacity with the factory-low-suspension. But maybe I shouldn't be?

.....

So in the opinion of the experienced touring riders here, considering my circumstances, would you want to be limited to a 350 lbs payload capacity?

.

One more follow-up to this thread, for those researching in the future.

I recently purchased a 2013 F700GS with standard factory suspension (with optional low seat.)

I have the owners manual which includes detailed specifications for this model. It turns out, I was incorrect about the payload capacity of the factory-low-suspension version.

The standard suspension F700GS has a spec payload capacity of 500 lbs.

Factory-low-suspension has a spec payload capacity of 309 lbs, not 350 as I previously mentioned.

So the payload is reduced by 191 lbs with a factory-low-suspension. In my opinion 309 lbs payload is cutting it close and rules out two-up riding for larger individuals, or even smaller individuals who wish to carry some touring luggage.

As long as I have the owners manual cracked open, I'll also mention that suspension travel is reduced by the factory-low-suspension:

Front Travel Standard: 6.7"
Front Travel Low: 5.5"

Rear Travel Standard: 6.7"
Rear Travel Low: 5.3"

I hope this info is helpful to someone in the future.
 
F650GS Low vs standard suspension swap?

I recently left the cruiser world and purchased a '12 F650GS with the factory low option. The bike only had 1800 miles. I loved it until I went on a forest road and found out how easily it bottoms out. It was only upon doing some research that I learned of the greatly diminished load carrying capability. This greatly disappoints me. (my own fault however, I get that). My question is, is the solution as simply as finding someone willing to swap the rear shock assemblies? I can live with the gain in height if it means a stronger set up and more capacity.

I'm brand new here and if this topic has been beaten to death previously, I apologize.

Thanks!
 
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I recently left the cruiser world and purchased a '12 F650GS with the factory low option. The bike only had 1800 miles. I loved it until I went on a forest road and found out how easily it bottoms out. It was only upon doing some research that I learned of the greatly diminished load carrying capability. This greatly disappoints me. (my own fault however, I get that). My question is, is the solution as simply as finding someone willing to swap the rear shock assemblies? I can live with the gain in height if it means a stronger set up and more capacity.

I'm brand new here and if this topic has been beaten to death previously, I apologize.

Thanks!
For the F650GS you need only to change the shock and the sidestand to have a standard height bike. Having said that it is lower than the F800GS.

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
 
I recently left the cruiser world and purchased a '12 F650GS with the factory low option. The bike only had 1800 miles. I loved it until I went on a forest road and found out how easily it bottoms out. It was only upon doing some research that I learned of the greatly diminished load carrying capability. This greatly disappoints me. (my own fault however, I get that). My question is, is the solution as simply as finding someone willing to swap the rear shock assemblies? I can live with the gain in height if it means a stronger set up and more capacity.

I'm brand new here and if this topic has been beaten to death previously, I apologize.

Thanks!

I don’t know whether the decreased payload of the F700GS factory-low also applies to the F650GS twin. Have you confirmed that?

Sometimes the least expensive option is to sell and buy a standard suspension bike. Based on my recent purchase experience, there seems to be a very strong market for factory-low suspension GS models. They get snapped up much quicker than the standard height models.

I have the standard suspension with low-seat option. Even with my short inseam, it is proving to be a good option for me.
 
I don’t know whether the decreased payload of the F700GS factory-low also applies to the F650GS twin. Have you confirmed that?

From the F650GS specs:
Permitted total weight:
• 436 kg (with lowered suspension 349 kg)
Payload (with standard equipment):
• 237 kg (with lowered suspension 150 kg)
 
I recently left the cruiser world and purchased a '12 F650GS with the factory low option. The bike only had 1800 miles. I loved it until I went on a forest road and found out how easily it bottoms out. It was only upon doing some research that I learned of the greatly diminished load carrying capability. This greatly disappoints me. (my own fault however, I get that). My question is, is the solution as simply as finding someone willing to swap the rear shock assemblies? I can live with the gain in height if it means a stronger set up and more capacity.

I'm brand new here and if this topic has been beaten to death previously, I apologize.

Thanks!

I don’t know specifically about the 650, but a low 700 rear shock preload can be cranked up quite a ways using a tool found under the seat. That, and some adjustment of the small damping screw near the bottom of the shock, should prevent hard bottoming one-up on a forest road.
 
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