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Thread: 1100R won't take throttle

  1. #1

    1100R won't take throttle

    I have a 95 1100R that will idle but dies as soon as the throttle is cracked. About all I was able to do was check fuel pressure and it was right on 45. I don't have experience trouble shooting fuel injection and of course no test equipment. Does anyone have any experience with this?

  2. #2
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Have you done any work recently? Removed the right side panel or the gas tank?

    Check the throttle cables, especially the right side. Make sure that the end of the throttle cable is fully seated into the ferrule at the throttle body. The right side really screws up throttle response if the cable isn't seated.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  3. #3
    Thanks, yes I have had a throttle cable problem. This was just before the problem started. I'll check it. I have a couple of fuel injected bikes but this is my first problem.

  4. #4
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Unclip and re-seat any electrical connectors that you can reach - TPS comes to mind.

  5. #5
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    As others have pointed out, your throttle cables may be imbalance or not seated correctly. And an unconnected TPS is a good guess.

    Another possibility, even though you’ve measured fuel pressure at idle, there may still be leaks in your in-tank hoses, a common problem. The problem is that your system may be able to achieve 42psi at low fuel volume but not at the higher demand as you open the throttle.

    A better way to check the fuel system is to collect the return fuel in a tank while the bike idles. If you get about 2 liters in a minute, everything in the tank is good.

  6. #6
    Thanks, This gives me something else to check. I'll try again tomorrow. I put the tank back on today after checking the cables and it's doing the same. About 500 miles ago it did this on start up. After about 10 restarts it ran fine. When it quit on me on the highway I kept trying and finally it started and ran great for 10 miles then died again. Maybe if there's an imbalance in the throttle cables would gently lifting one cable at a time do any good?

  7. #7
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    That might point you toward which side the problem is on (if it's only one side, as in "not electrical nor seriously mechanical"), but I don't think an imbalance would kill the engine when you apply throttle.. keep looking...

    QUESTION: When it dies, does the tach do a little jumping around, or does it just go right down to zero? A jumping tach points to the HES (high energy ignition trigger). Also, are the lights or any of the displays affected?

    By the way, if you still have the "crossover" throttle cables, the upgrade - at some future time, after this troubleshooting - is to install the later cables plus distribution box (under the tank). This setup stays in sync better (after the cables have gone thru their initial stretch) and is easier to balance.

  8. #8
    Gerard jagarra's Avatar
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    Due to the age of your bike replacing or having the HES rewired is a must. Another area to check is have you opened the tank up and removed the fuel pump assembly to change the filter and inspect the hoses, based your age and use of alcohol in fuels the hoses suffer, the U shaped hose cracks, the vibration damper on pump disintegrates and could cause debris in tank clogging fuel input.
    Be sure to mark the location of fuel pump plate in relation to tank, makes it easier to install in correct position. Hoses are available from dealer, internal and external 8mm. Now is the time to install metal quick release fuel lines from Beemer Boneyard.
    1994 R1100RS-(5/93)-,1974 R90/6 built 9/73,--1964 Triumph T100--1986 Honda XL600R

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    By the way, if you still have the "crossover" throttle cables, the upgrade - at some future time, after this troubleshooting - is to install the later cables plus distribution box (under the tank). This setup stays in sync better (after the cables have gone thru their initial stretch) and is easier to balance.
    Boy, do I disagree with this. That kludge of a box with a bell crank and 4 cables is a nightmare from a maintenance standpoint. And it wasn't the cables that caused the surging that mess was intended to cure anyway. To correct any stretch in the single cable system takes less than a minute to adjust the right throttle body in any event. I did just the opposite and went to the single throttle cable on my R1150R.
    Last edited by PGlaves; 11-02-2019 at 05:30 PM.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  10. #10
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Fine, we've had different experiences. My older RT refused to stay sync'd, but when I did the swap, everything pretty much just fell into place. Maybe I was just overlooking something or doing it wrong... dunno.
    I have encountered a box where some kind of road crap had accumulated inside and buggered it up; thorough cleaning helped somewhat, but only replacement made it right.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    I have encountered a box where some kind of road crap had accumulated inside and buggered it up; thorough cleaning helped somewhat, but only replacement made it right.
    That problem is the crux of the maintenance issue. That, and the fact that getting the box to actually come out so cables can be replaced resembles World War III on some bikes. I just didn't think any improvement was worth the hassle.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  12. #12
    Thanks everyone for the advice. But everything points toward the rubber fuel lines in the tank. Even it's it's not the problem they need to be changed. Yes it dies hold 45 psi while running but drops to zero immediately when shut off. I'll change the fuel lines and see what happens.

  13. #13
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    Please keep us updated- my tank has old lines

    Had my tank off and drained a few months ago. Fixed some clamps, put on the Q disconnects, filter. Didn't have the correct fuel lines handy, so put it back together. Wishing now I had rehabbed the entire operation in the tank. Mine is a '97 with 90k mi on odo. Should have just been patient and done it right the first time Leaves me with anxiety. Split fuel line, internal tank, would be a trip ender/roadside apocalypse. Thank you for describing the symptoms, and hope to hear details of what you replaced and a happy ending.

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