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Thread: 1999 R1100RT Front Brake Bleed

  1. #1
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    1999 R1100RT Front Brake Bleed

    So, I took a first shot at bleeding a few weeks back after installing new pads and saw there was no bleed nipple on the right hand caliper. Also, the end result is that after pushing the pistons all the way back in the bores the pads drag a little even after over 500 miles. I have ordered stainless lines and caliper rebuild kits. Just curious about bleeding the right side.
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  2. #2
    Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the plumbing come down to the right hand caliper, then cross over to the left hand caliper with a pipe/hose that connects where the right bleed screw would be if there were one? If so, then bleeding at the left side bleeds the entire system.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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  3. #3
    Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the plumbing come down to the right hand caliper, then cross over to the left hand caliper with a pipe/hose that connects where the right bleed screw would be if there were one? If so, then bleeding at the left side bleeds the entire system. If not, then there must be a blanking plug or something in the right caliper where the bleeder would be if there was one.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  4. #4
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    Later bikes had a special filler used at the factory to initially charge the braking system** from the right side.
    https://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/NotesP...12330310_1.pdf
    You can purchase a bleed screw from BMW 34 21 2 330 310 VENT SCREW or you can make your own - see below
    The screws are available at NAPA etc.

    To bleed, remove the grub screw and thread in the bleed screw until it depresses the ball, bleed the system and remove. Replace the grub screw.
    Some people chose to remove the filler and just replace with the bleed screw.

    **this same system is used on 1150/1100S hydraulic clutch actuation systems
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  5. #5
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    Thanks!
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  6. #6
    A picture of the right caliper would help.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  7. #7
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  8. #8
    I forgot about that. I took it off my R1150 at the 1st fluid change. It is my K75 that has the crossover hard line.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  9. #9
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    I sourced some Stahlbus brake bleeders and replaced the fittings on both the front calipers. I caution that removing the fitting on the right caliper should be done carefully and possibly heated as it looked as if red locktite was used at the factory. Only as I got it moving did I realize this and it was enough force that it could have pulled out the threads in the caliper.
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