Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: R1100RT Big Bearing R&R Question

  1. #1
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Trinity, NC
    Posts
    947

    R1100RT Big Bearing R&R Question

    Asking for comment from folks that have actually done this repair themselves.

    This is my second big bearing replacement.. Bike is 2001 R1100RT. This one lasted 110k miles and I caught it very early. Once I saw particles on the magnet I really couldn’t bring myself to keep riding even though there was still no perceived movement at the wheel. The FD is off the bike and disassembled and there’s a little bit of play in the big bearing.

    Question is this. The videos of the bearing install show the bearing dropped on the crown wheel and falling into place with a click. My first R&R the bearing didn’t bottom out with that click and I wasn’t confident that it was in position, so I bought another bearing and had the local shop install it. I did that one with the bearing heated up and the crown wheel from the freezer. What steps do I need to take to make sure that the bearing gets into the correct position on the crown wheel? If it doesn’t go on all the way, can I use a drift on the inner race to complete the install? Obviously I would rather that it just fall into place without any doubt. Thanks.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  2. #2
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Winnipeg, MB, Canada
    Posts
    1,487
    If you have a heat gun, not torches, heat the bearing to about 190F.

    Before doing that, put the crown in a freezer for a day or so. Other options is to use a CO2 fire extinguisher or a can of CRC Freeze Spray. Dry ice is my favorite, and the leftover dry ice always freaks my neighbour's kid out when I drop into a cup of water.

    Make yourself a little wooden box so the crown fits in snug, lay it on the floor, not the bench.

    Bearing hot, crown frosty, a little 3 in One Oil, drop bearing on straight if such a thing could be ever possible and then if needed, finish with a brass drift with an oval face and tap away until she rings.

    It's a backyard, bush fix but if you don't have a press and the plates, works pretty good.
    1997 R1100RT, 1981 KZ 440 LTD, R80RT, R90/6 sidecar, K1100RS,1983 K100RS (Cafe now)

    “The major civilizing force in the world is not religion, it is sex.”

  3. #3
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sechelt, British Columbia
    Posts
    3,087
    Crown assy in the freezer for 1 hour
    Oiled Bearing heated to 200-225 f in a toaster oven.
    Oven gloves to handle
    Bearing hovered squarely over the lead in on the crown sitting on a tin can
    Bearing will drop right on and will bottom
    Hold down for 5 seconds
    Done
    Confirm bearing is bottomed.
    Check for correct shimming.
    I prefer the solder method.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  4. #4
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Trinity, NC
    Posts
    947
    DONE!!

    Thank you to the two very knowledgeable responders. Left the crown wheel in the freezer overnight, put the bearing in the toaster oven for 15 minutes. Crown wheel was way below zero and the bearing was about 215 F. It bottomed on the crown wheel with a satisfying clink.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  5. #5
    Were the old and new bearings of the same thickness?

  6. #6
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sechelt, British Columbia
    Posts
    3,087
    Quote Originally Posted by robsryder View Post
    Were the old and new bearings of the same thickness?
    The clearance (C3) comes into play as well.
    Shimming must be checked each bearing change for longest service life
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  7. #7
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Mansfield,MA
    Posts
    14,328
    Great information guys
    Added to the Tag Cloud.
    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
    Mod Squad
    2009 F800GS 1994 TW200

  8. #8
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Trinity, NC
    Posts
    947
    Quote Originally Posted by robsryder View Post
    Were the old and new bearings of the same thickness?
    Yes. Both bearings measured 17.953 mm.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    The clearance (C3) comes into play as well.
    Shimming must be checked each bearing change for longest service life
    If nothing changes but the bearing and the old and new bearings are the same, then the shims and resultant clearance would be the same. Since this is the third bearing installed on the OP's bike and the first replacement was done by a shop (local BMW dealer?) one would hope that the shop checked the original and first replacement bearings for thickness. This presumes that the shim/clearance was correctly set at the factory.

    If the oilhead final drive is similar to the airhead final drive, I recall a BMW mechanic once telling me that the shop labor for reshimming an airhead final drive was 5 labor hours. The second degree of freedom (i.e., two axes of rotation) complicates the proper setting of the shims. This was mostly in reference to the replacement of the pinion and ring gear set rather than just replacing a bearing. It seems that one used a blue dye on the ring and pinion gears to check that the teeth were meshing properly. Thus, there were several assembly / disassembly iterations needed to converge on the proper shim / clearance. I have an example airhead final drive that I purchased used from Gator a long while back that illustrates the hazards of improperly shimming the final drive (or of using mismatched ring and pinion gears).

  10. #10
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sechelt, British Columbia
    Posts
    3,087
    Quote Originally Posted by robsryder View Post
    If nothing changes but the bearing and the old and new bearings are the same, then the shims and resultant clearance would be the same. Since this is the third bearing installed on the OP's bike and the first replacement was done by a shop (local BMW dealer?) one would hope that the shop checked the original and first replacement bearings for thickness. This presumes that the shim/clearance was correctly set at the factory.

    If the oilhead final drive is similar to the airhead final drive, I recall a BMW mechanic once telling me that the shop labor for reshimming an airhead final drive was 5 labor hours. The second degree of freedom (i.e., two axes of rotation) complicates the proper setting of the shims. This was mostly in reference to the replacement of the pinion and ring gear set rather than just replacing a bearing. It seems that one used a blue dye on the ring and pinion gears to check that the teeth were meshing properly. Thus, there were several assembly / disassembly iterations needed to converge on the proper shim / clearance. I have an example airhead final drive that I purchased used from Gator a long while back that illustrates the hazards of improperly shimming the final drive (or of using mismatched ring and pinion gears).
    I have seen more than 1 final drive that was NOT checked when done at the dealer.
    It is rare that I don't reshim any one I do. They typically came out too tight to begin with. I think Anton would report the same.

    Every one I do is checked and and dealt with accordingly.
    Oilhead Big bearing shim check (preload) is a 1/2 hr tops.
    Your call if you want to assume yours is correct.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 1
    Last Post: 01-26-2016, 04:00 AM
  2. Pivot Bearing Wear - R1100RT
    By drh205 in forum Oilheads
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 09-17-2012, 01:01 PM
  3. swing arm bearing for a 97 R1100RT?
    By kwazimoto in forum Oilheads
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-31-2010, 09:29 PM
  4. R1100RT front wheel bearing preload?
    By nrpetersen in forum Oilheads
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 02-16-2010, 11:52 PM
  5. bearing question
    By BUBBAZANETTI in forum Airheads
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-12-2009, 11:21 AM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •