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2019 BMW R1200RS 42K Service.

mehrten

Mehrten
I recently completed the 42,000 mile service on our 2016 R1200RS. At 42k the service was a simple oil and filter change, with a look-see all around, then a reset of the service due date/miles with our GS911. I ordered the oil and filter with the drain plug crush washer from Iron Horse Motorcycles in Tucson, AZ with mail delivery. They do good work.

All went very smoothly - no runs, no drips, no errors and no burns. What makes this service different is I DID NOT warm up the engine to its normal operating temperature before draining the oil. A recent article in “Roadracing World & Motorcycle Technology” talked about changing your engine oil cold. They did some “experimenting” and concluded that draining your oil cold was OK - your engine would not grenade on your next ride. So, I decided I’d do it “cold”.

The biggest difference was “…and no burns.” I did wear my latex gloves to keep my hands clean…not to keep me from burning myself. Also, I must have touched the exhaust header a half-dozen times taking off and putting on the oil filter - the exhaust header was room temperature. Cool, no burns.

Though this sounds like heresy, it turns out there are lots of folks who drain their engines cold. Also, consider the shop that has several vehicles in line for a service that includes an oil change. Most are driven the 100 yards or less to the lift, or pushed onto the lift from a few yards away. Either way, I doubt the engine is at its full operating temperature before the mechanic pulls the plug.

I think I’ll continue this “cold” change method when our other Beemers are due.
 
On the one hand: I change the oil in my vehicles with the oil at least somewhat warm. Perhaps my strongest argument for doing it that way is because that's the was I was taught back in the 1960s and I'm probably too old and my learning neural paths are too far gone to change.

On the other hand: Do the math. If the oil is up at 180F it will drain a little bit more completely. I've never done a test and will happy to be corrected by someone who has but I doubt that the difference in the quantity that drains cold is more than 100cc less than a hot drain. The capacity of the lube system is listed as 4,000 cc. Thus, the worst case is that you would have 2.5% oil that's reached its "retirement" mixed in with the brandy new whiz-bang erl of your choice. Seems like the probability that we could convict you of engine abuse would be pretty slim.

The definitive test (at least to me) would be:

1. Change the oil when cold.
2. At the next oil change interval, sample* the oil and send it to the lab. I'd be astonished if the sample wasn't just fine.

* For the purposes of obtaining a lab sample, I would run the engine for at least a minute or two so that the oil was mixed and your sample wasn't just the dregs of the sump.

Ride long and prosper!
 
When you take an oil sample you take it in the "middle" of the draining. You crack the plug let it flow, hold your bottle under in the apox. middle of the flow, then let the rest drain.

Yep. I send a sample to the lab with every 6K oil change and file the report that comes back. When time comes to sell or trade, buyers/dealers always appreciate having that engine health documentation.
 
When you take an oil sample you take it in the "middle" of the draining. You crack the plug let it flow, hold your bottle under in the apox. middle of the flow, then let the rest drain.

Lee: Yup; that's the recommended way to do it.

Lee and Mark: Two responders who also do sampling! Thanks for posting! It makes me feel a little less weird for being somewhat compulsive about this practice.
 
FWIW-
I oversee a dozen or so generators ranging from 40 to 350 KW, Katolight and Caterpillar. They draw oil samples through the dipstick tube before the actual draining.
OM
 
I drain it cold, I also buy extra oil and with the drain plug still removed I pour in 1/2 quart or so to flush out what is left.
I then let that drain for 10-15 minutes while I change the filter and anything else I need to do..
 
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