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Thread: ‘57 R60 Wiring has Me Stumped

  1. #1
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    ‘57 R60 Wiring has Me Stumped

    I’m installing a 6v LED Taillight (from Benchmark Works). It’s a two function light that is as simple as it gets. Low Intensity for Taillight and High Intensity for The Stoplight Function. Bench test is perfect. From the terminal block behind the Battery the wires through the fender to the Taillight test fine with a 6v source connected.

    With the bike wiring connected to the terminal block the Taillight function is on high intensity so that the Brake light will not work. (As the light is already on high intensity).
    If you disconnect the tail light function, the brake light does work. With the key in the run only position, the brake light does work.

    All of the above is without the engine running and a new 6v Battery.

    History is I must have checked for Brake light w/o the lights (taillight) and assumed it worked with the (incandescent) taillight also. Not sure now.
    Also the previous owner did rewire the headlight and mentioned the 4 tangs that hold the ignition plate. The spare key, w/o the plastic housing, is the only one that works now. I absolutely do not want to take the ignition plate out and disturbing the tangs. Especially since l do not know how many times it has been done.
    I did successfully disassemble and reassemble one in the early ‘70’s and the nub on my shoulders has been ground down and the fingers don’t do what they are told nowadays.

    I’m stumped as to why the bike wiring seems to have the taillight on both functions.

    Any suggestions will be more than greatly appreciated as “What I know about Electricity will
    Shock you”.

    Thanks
    Charlie

  2. #2

    Don't let it scare you

    Charlie

    I don't think you have to deal with the little tabs and remove the circuit board to inspect and correct the wiring in the head light bucket. Those tabs are scary so hopefully it is just a matter of the tail light power wire is not attached at the correct place. At some point in time your going to have to bite the bullet and open up the head light bucket to at least ensure the circuit plate is properly attached and if it is track down the mistake in the wiring. Get a real good wiring diagram, 6 volt LED test light, multi-meter and some patience, I have found it easier to detach the head light bucket from the brackets and flip it upside down on some padding on top of the front fender.

    If the circuit board tabs are broken the best way (not the easiest or cheapest) to fix it is to remove the head light bucket and replace the circuit board mount. I found out at the BMW MOA National Rally that those pieces are available and Bench Mark Works has them. If you do need to replace that piece you will more than likely need spot welding and paint repair.

  3. #3
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    Thanks 69zeff65,

    You are right. I think you boiled it down to the problem. I got there too but it took a while for me. I’ve had the headlight open for days while trouble shooting. I have a mirror and multimeter and its hard to tell with the possible rewiring and poor circuitry between the nub on my shoulders and simple reasoning, not to mention the eyes that are older than the bike. Have poked around a little but..........

    Definitely should turn the headlight bucket upside down ! Especially since I’m not a Dentist. Sure would be nice to find out the possible cross wiring is indeed on the bottom of the switch plate. Or supposed to be on the bottom.

    I’m missing the best riding month of the year around here. First time in 47 years that I’ve missed time in October. Being a little timid as to making things worse, for safety reasons, I’ll just temporarily switch wire the taillight at the terminal block at the battery to ride the month till November brings shop time. (Read back burner with all the other bike projects)

    More to come.

    This bike sure is FUN.(When it’s rolling)

    Charlie

  4. #4

    And I'm color blind

    I've done several /2 and earlier restorations and understand the reluctance in dealing with the switch plate and wiring oddities. Here are few snap shots of my '55 R50 I took 13 years to decide what color to paint it. Great plan to hot wire the tail light and enjoy the next few weeks of prime riding time.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
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    Beautiful !!! Actually STUNNING!
    Hope you ride it.
    Were Rims painted in 1955 ? Looks good painted.

    Charlie

    p.s. You left the peacock open. (chuckle)
    Last edited by 72r60/7; 10-26-2019 at 01:24 AM. Reason: Grammer

  6. #6
    '99 '03 '06 National Co-Rally Chair Friedle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 72r60/7 View Post
    Beautiful !!! Actually STUNNING!
    Hope you ride it.
    Were Rims were painted in 1955 ? Looks good painted.

    Charlie

    p.s. You left the peacock open. (chuckle)
    Hello Charlie,

    The petcocks are in the closed position. The older Everbest petcocks off position is pointing down. The newer Karkoma and Gemma petcocks turn to the side to shut off. Some rims of that period were painted IIIRC.

    Friedle
    Ride fast safely

  7. #7
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    Thanks

    Oops!

    Interesting. Thanks.

    I learn something every day.
    Sometimes 2 things, unless I talk too much.

    Charlie

  8. #8
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    Update

    Problem solved.

    Returned the Cluster to Bench Mark Works to be checked out.
    The LED Cluster (Tail/Brake) was bad. In fact all of their LED Clusters were bad.

    They gave me a Credit for the returned one.

    May go to plan B:
    An inverter (6v to 12v) and use Custom Dynamiics 12v Cluster.

    Charlie

  9. #9
    Liaison 20774's Avatar
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    Nice to find the answer. Vech is a standup guy for the stuff they sell. I've had issues with a solo seat (R69S) and a deep oil pan (R25/2) and he swapped me for new ones once he saw what the issue was.
    Kurt -- Forum Liaison ---> Resources and Links Thread <---
    '78 R100/7 & '69 R69S & '52 R25/2
    mine-ineye-deatheah-pielayah-jooa-kalayus. oolah-minane-hay-meeriah-kal-oyus-algay-a-thaykin', buddy!

  10. #10

    Good to see you got it solved!

    Charlie

    Its good that you jumped back in and checked a few things, its important that we "custodians" of these vintage and antique BMW motorcycles get to know them and figure out how to fix them because most shops won't touch them and if they do its not cheap. I can't blame them as the revenue stream is based on the sales, maintenance and repair of the latest models.

    Having said that I have to say Vech "BenchMark Works" is a one of the best around for parts, service, tech advise and customer service. He stands behind everything he does and sells. A few years back I restored "Ole Grey" my under the house find R 69S and as part of that venture into obsession with correctness I found the header pipes did not fit correctly. The real issue was it was almost two (2) years and more than a few miles after I restored the bike. I had to remove the head pipes to properly reseal the cylinder bases on the bike and remembered the struggle I had fitting them on when I did the initial restoration. I called BenchMark Works and asked about a replacement set of headers that might fit a little better and after Vech got all the information he told me he would send me a new header pipe set no charge and paid for the return shipping of the non fitting header pipes.

  11. #11
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    I can get parts everywhere/anywhere. What I’m after is information.

    Bench Marks Works has a great attitude for wiling to help any and all.

    They are the type of people that I patronize. Good for them for doing so. I certainly appreciate it.

    Charlie

  12. #12
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    Follow-up:

    The LED TAIL LIGHT from Benchmark Works was defective. In fact the whole batch they had were defective. Should not have been up to me to tell them. Each of the two functions worked independently but not together.

    For safety reasons I still wanted a bright tail and brake light.

    So, being the Electrical Genius that I an not, I used a hardwire 1 7/8” 2 function Red Hardwire Cluster from Custom Dynamics.$25 +or-. A little creative mounting was called for. I have used lots of their hardwire clusters for years. Lifetime Warranty too.(Hard site to navigate as they have so many different products).
    Also used 2 $10 6v to 12v converters. There was probably a way to use only 1 converter but what I know about electricity will shock you. Now the brightness of both functions are great.

    Too bad there was so much wasted time on my part, but the outcome is great.
    In fact, the LEDs are so bright, my next 2 safety additions will be 6v rear turn signals and front visibility (Yellow) LED lights.

    Thanks to all for your responses.

    Charlie

  13. #13
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    Nice
    Always good to have the solution posted.
    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
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