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Let me tell everyone here that for the past two years I have been riding my watercooled boxer clutch with CVS brand mineral oil, the one that has zero fragrances or additives. Ussually you can ask the pharmacist which one is pure mineral oil. Period. Nothing hasppened to the clutch. Go buy your expensive Vitamoil!
I'm glad you are not seeing any negative results, however, I would not recommend this to anyone without perhaps adding a "buyer beware" provision. I believe that the viscosity index of pure mineral oil is noticeably higher than what the clutch systems specs call for.Let me tell everyone here that for the past two years I have been riding my watercooled boxer clutch with CVS brand mineral oil, the one that has zero fragrances or additives. Ussually you can ask the pharmacist which one is pure mineral oil. Period. Nothing hasppened to the clutch. Go buy your expensive Vitamoil!
Castol Vitamol V 10 ... special additive technology results in an improvement in the VI (Viscosity Index) performance, corrosion prevention, pressure absorption ability and ageing protection
I can't help with any advice on accessing the slave cylinder, except to say that there is no reason to access it unless there is a problem.At the 18,000 mile service, I flushed the clutch system on our 2016 R1200RS using BMW's mineral oil.
Getting to the slave cylinder was damn near impossible. Seriously, damn near impossible.
The starter was in the way and it needed more of the rear of the bike to come off before it would come off. WAY too much work...
Using 14 inch forceps I was able to get a plastic hose on the nipple; and using an ignition sized small wrench I was able to get the bleed screw opened and closed.
A real hassle that I do not plan on doing again unless something goes wrong with the slave cylinder.
Question:
Is the RT LC just as difficult?
Who else reading this thread has done a flush of an LC R bike?