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Clutch Fluid

I believe it happened with the twin spark models. My 2004 R1150R twin spark had mineral oil clutch. (The type specifically designed NOT to be used for brake fluid)
 
Not necessarily; BMW often does changes mid-model or staggers which bikes get them.
Example: my '04 RT still has the brake fluid in the clutch system.
And, I don't know if this is due to an error in the parts fiche or just because they still had some parts left over on the assembly line, but my fuel damper relay (to slow the RID fuel gauge action) is listed as "2002 and earlier".
 
Let me tell everyone here that for the past two years I have been riding my watercooled boxer clutch with CVS brand mineral oil, the one that has zero fragrances or additives. Ussually you can ask the pharmacist which one is pure mineral oil. Period. Nothing hasppened to the clutch. Go buy your expensive Vitamoil!
 
Let me tell everyone here that for the past two years I have been riding my watercooled boxer clutch with CVS brand mineral oil, the one that has zero fragrances or additives. Ussually you can ask the pharmacist which one is pure mineral oil. Period. Nothing hasppened to the clutch. Go buy your expensive Vitamoil!

 
Let me tell everyone here that for the past two years I have been riding my watercooled boxer clutch with CVS brand mineral oil, the one that has zero fragrances or additives. Ussually you can ask the pharmacist which one is pure mineral oil. Period. Nothing hasppened to the clutch. Go buy your expensive Vitamoil!
I'm glad you are not seeing any negative results, however, I would not recommend this to anyone without perhaps adding a "buyer beware" provision. I believe that the viscosity index of pure mineral oil is noticeably higher than what the clutch systems specs call for.

The system on our bikes calls for a 10W Hydraulic Clutch Mineral Oil, which is a fairly low viscosity that I believe is arrived at with the use of viscosity modifiers. BMW specs their Vitamol V 10 which is just rebranded Castol Vitamol V 10, a 10W Mineral Oil with a specific additive package.

From Castrol's product datasheet:
Castol Vitamol V 10 ... special additive technology results in an improvement in the VI (Viscosity Index) performance, corrosion prevention, pressure absorption ability and ageing protection

The additive package with Vitamol V10, or Magura Blue Blood, etc. are designed to keep the systems working properly for many, many years. They are specifically formulated to be 10W via viscosity modifiers because the viscosity of the oil used in a hydraulic clutch is perhaps the most important part of things (more so than corrosion prevention, etc., etc.). If it is too thick or thin then it can adversely affect the wear of the internal parts as well as how the pressure is applied to the clutch itself.

I don't know at what point a difference in viscosity would become a problem, and as you say, you've not noticed any negative effects, and everything might be fine. I really don't know. However, I'm not sure the savings of $3-$5 is worth risking a $200 clutch cylinder. This is lifetime fluid so it is hard to imagine anyone needing to buy much at all.
 
Changing the Clutch Fluid on a 2016 R1200RS

At the 18,000 mile service, I flushed the clutch system on our 2016 R1200RS using BMW's mineral oil.

Getting to the slave cylinder was damn near impossible. Seriously, damn near impossible.

The starter was in the way and it needed more of the rear of the bike to come off before it would come off. WAY too much work...

Using 14 inch forceps I was able to get a plastic hose on the nipple; and using an ignition sized small wrench I was able to get the bleed screw opened and closed.

A real hassle that I do not plan on doing again unless something goes wrong with the slave cylinder.

Question:

Is the RT LC just as difficult?

Who else reading this thread has done a flush of an LC R bike?
 
At the 18,000 mile service, I flushed the clutch system on our 2016 R1200RS using BMW's mineral oil.

Getting to the slave cylinder was damn near impossible. Seriously, damn near impossible.

The starter was in the way and it needed more of the rear of the bike to come off before it would come off. WAY too much work...

Using 14 inch forceps I was able to get a plastic hose on the nipple; and using an ignition sized small wrench I was able to get the bleed screw opened and closed.

A real hassle that I do not plan on doing again unless something goes wrong with the slave cylinder.

Question:

Is the RT LC just as difficult?

Who else reading this thread has done a flush of an LC R bike?
I can't help with any advice on accessing the slave cylinder, except to say that there is no reason to access it unless there is a problem.

The reason BMW is now using mineral oil hydraulic fluid vs their previous practice of using brake fluid is that it (Vitamol V10 and its equivalents) are lifetime fluids.

The only reason to change the hydraulic clutch reservoir fluid is if there is a problem with the system or it has to be dismantled for some reason.
 
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