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Thread: 2003 R1150GS Sport HELP No start No Crank

  1. #1

    2003 R1150GS Sport HELP No start No Crank

    My beloved Yellow Jacket has finally failed me. Bought it with 7500 miles last May and now it has 16,000. Super clean and well cared for. Went to start it and noticed a buzzing coming from the fuse/relay box under the seat, the tach was jumping around and at first I got a click when the start button was pushed but now no click either. I have checked the battery voltage, 13.84 , I have checked the connections to the starter, clean and tight. The buzzing noise is coming from the row of black relays next to the starter relay (yellow) Im thinking maybe the starter gave up the ghost. Cant find a good description of the relays in clymer or the owners manual. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

    I have also developed an oil leak that blows oil back onto my left boot, looks like possibly the VC gasket.

  2. #2
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    That “standing” voltage sounds high actually I’m not sure what you are using for a meter. What is the chance you can measure the voltage while you hit the starter button?
    OM
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  3. #3
    Left Coast Rider
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    Is "tach jumping around" not a symptom of bad HES wiring?

  4. #4
    Buzzing under seat with a no crank condirion?

    Check
    Starter relay then
    Starter

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  5. #5
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    Try boosting it.
    1997 R1100RT, 1981 KZ 440 LTD, R80RT, R90/6 sidecar, K1100RS,1983 K100RS (Cafe now)

    “The major civilizing force in the world is not religion, it is sex.”

  6. #6
    I vote bad battery. High no-load voltage but no ability to provide amps. I had one that showed 12.7v which dropped to .4 volts with a single tail light bulb connected.

    Edited to correct .4 amps to .4 volts.
    Last edited by PGlaves; 10-02-2019 at 04:06 PM.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
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  7. #7
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PGlaves View Post
    I vote bad battery. High no-load voltage but no ability to provide amps. I had one that showed 12.7v which dropped to .4 amps with a single tail light bulb connected.
    I'm with Paul
    '
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  8. #8
    Gerard jagarra's Avatar
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    I agree with Paul, pull battery and take to auto parts house or batteries + for load test. Once battery is confirmed good then on to relay and starter.
    1994 R1100RS-(5/93)-,1974 R90/6 built 9/73,--1964 Triumph T100--1986 Honda XL600R

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by jagarra View Post
    I agree with Paul, pull battery and take to auto parts house or batteries + for load test. Once battery is confirmed good then on to relay and starter.
    I would connect a reliable volt meter to the battery terminals. Record voltage. Turn the key on. Record voltage. Press starter button. Record voltage. Report back with these results.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  10. #10
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    If the bike starts and runs with a boost, 50/50, it's the battery. A loose/corroded ground will mimic the same.
    1997 R1100RT, 1981 KZ 440 LTD, R80RT, R90/6 sidecar, K1100RS,1983 K100RS (Cafe now)

    “The major civilizing force in the world is not religion, it is sex.”

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