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Thread: New Member Question and Intro 1975 R90/6

  1. #16
    Registered User bandersnatch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Hillsboro, Oregon
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    8
    I spent some time last weekend working on the carburetors. I used an unlit propane torch to go around the fittings looking for leaks and was pleased to find that the engine didn't speed up at all so I'm good there. Played around with the mixture and found that by turning the screw out about 1 full turn I was able to get the bike to start well and after a couple of minutes was able to shut off the choke and give it some throttle.

    I also adjusted the valves, they didn't seem too far off but the idle seems smoother. Very happy with how it's running now.

    The throttle is fairly hard to turn and doesn't return by itself so I have two new throttle cables ordered. I know the left cable is bad but for the price it doesn't make sense to not replace both.

    Included with the bike was a spare seat that's in excellent shape except for two really small splits in the leather. I went ahead and installed the replacement seat and started tearing down the original one to see if it's worth reupholstering. Unfortunately, the tin worm has had its way with the seat pan and I'm not sure there's enough left to make it worth it. I'll probably keep my eyes open for a used replacement pan that's in better shape and stick with my spare for now. The spare is nice enough that hate to rip it up but it's not up to snuff for a restoration. Here are some pics.IMG_0141b.jpgIMG_0144b.jpgIMG_0145b.jpgIMG_0025.JPG
    Last edited by bandersnatch; 10-08-2019 at 05:48 PM.
    Bandersnatch
    Larry Wheeler, Hillsboro Oregon
    1975 R90/6 built 9/74

  2. #17
    '99 '03 '06 National Co-Rally Chair Friedle's Avatar
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    Mar 2003
    Location
    Poughkeepsie, NY
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    1,753
    Below the throttle you should find a thumbscrew "friction lock". It is an early form of cruise control. If screwed in too far it will impede the throttle from easily returning. At the other end of the cable there should be a return spring on the carb body to ensure the throttle closes when the grip is released. That spring might be weak or missing. Good luck.

    Friedle

    PS: Consider joining the Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org
    Ride fast safely

  3. #18
    If you havenít already opened it up, the handlebar throttle assembly could probably benefit from some cleaning and new grease.

  4. #19
    Registered User
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    B.P., MN
    Posts
    1,169
    The MG is a very very nice piece of workmanship! The bike will come along nicely. They're not making old stuff these days.

    An old friend came over last evening and I showed him my old 900, and fired it up. Normally I never start it unless I'm going some place. He acted as if he'd never seen anything like it before. Old stuff is so much fun. Windy here in the 70's today. Going for a spin. Work out the kinks.

    I use a dab of blue locktite on that cam nose nut. FWIW.

  5. #20
    Registered User bandersnatch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Hillsboro, Oregon
    Posts
    8
    Thanks for the suggestions guys. I did open up the handle and cleaned/degreased the insides. I used a dab of white lithium grease on the gears and cam. The carbs were recently rebuilt although i did reuse the springs because they seemed fine with good tension.

    I also verified the throttle lock screw was loose and not causing drag. The left cable has a broken sheath at the carburetor end which I think is the reason for the failure to return. New cables are on order.

    I have joined the Airheads club and in fact went to my second local airheads meeting a couple of nights ago. Katie, a long-time member sold me a Clymer workshop manual which I will be using in addition to my factory owner's manual and a Haynes manual.

    My alteration to the cam nose seems to be working out well, so a dab of Locktite will go on shortly. Sounds like a smart thing to do.

    It looks like my seat pan is pretty much shot. really thin metal in several places and all of the screw holes are filled with broken or drilled out screws. It looks like I'm in the market for a replacement pan (I'd like to recover it myself), so if anyone has one they'd like to part with please send me a note.

    Also looking for a center stand, mine only has about half of the left leg. One that needs some cleanup or minor repairs would be fine (I have a welder), but I'd like it to be complete. it works okay as long as I put a piece of 2x4 under it but I'd prefer not to haul the 2x4 around in the tool box!

    Regards,
    Larry
    Bandersnatch
    Larry Wheeler, Hillsboro Oregon
    1975 R90/6 built 9/74

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