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Thread: Determining which handlebars I have on '95 K75 Std.

  1. #16
    3 Red Bricks
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    Walnutz,

    I suggested you do it disconnected because you said you we having trouble getting that dimension. By disconnecting it from the bell crank, you are eliminating everything that could be preventing that. You are only dealing with the cable.


    If you have trouble connecting the cable back to the bellcrank after adjusting the cable to the correct length, back off the clutch adjustment bolt on the other end of the bellcrank. If you are still having issues, back off the sidestand retract adjuster (half moon shaped chrome nut on the chrome rod under your sidestand pivot).

    Then adjust for proper free play at clutch adjustment bolt on end of bellcrank.

    Then adjust sidestand retract for proper operation.






    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

  2. #17
    Well here’s another question.....my sidestand retract adjuster rod was removed because of the sidecar subframe and also the sidestand is no longer needed. The retractor lever is still there though. I don’t think this is the case but by any chance would that have any part in preventing the clutch release lever from hitting the tailpipe if it were still connected?

    Actually that would be stupid if it did. I think I need to rebuild the whole release lever system because I saw there is a spring, bearing and push piston that must be worn.

  3. #18
    Registered User drneo66's Avatar
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    This may also help (if you haven't ran across this yet)

    https://ibmwr.org/index.php/1998/04/...ch-adjustment/
    Current: 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2013 F800GS
    Former: 1995 BMW K75S, 2009 BMW G650GS
    MOA Member #:150400, IBA#: 37558

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by drneo66 View Post
    This may also help (if you haven't ran across this yet)

    https://ibmwr.org/index.php/1998/04/...ch-adjustment/
    Thank you! I did do this procedure but with the cable fully connected. I am going to try doing it with it unconnected from the release lever this weekend. I am almost pretty sure though that I need to rebuild the whole release system because it is not releasing the clutch at all with the lever all the way down now. It's like the rod is pushed into the clutch and does not spring back anymore. I think what I am going to do is make a Youtube page so I can make videos and post the links to properly show everyone what is going on. This will be useful for me as I go through the whole bike.

  5. #20
    Registered User drneo66's Avatar
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    A picture is worth a thousand words... and a video is even better
    Current: 2007 BMW R1200RT, 2013 F800GS
    Former: 1995 BMW K75S, 2009 BMW G650GS
    MOA Member #:150400, IBA#: 37558

  6. #21
    3 Red Bricks
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    Quote Originally Posted by walnutz View Post
    it is not releasing the clutch at all with the lever all the way down now.
    Do you mean the CLUTCH is not releasing/disengaging with the bellcrank all the way down against the muffler? The clutch releases with the bellcrank in the up direction.

    Or

    Do you mean you don't have any freeplay at the lever when the end of the bellcrank is touching the muffler? The freeplay adjuster bolt is at the other end of the bellcrank under the back of the transmission. If you can't get adaquate freeplay by adjusting this nolt with the end of the bellcrank touching the muffler, odds are 95% that your clutch disc is worn well past service limits and 5% that your throwout bearing is bad.
    LONG MAY YOUR BRICK FLY!

    Ride Safe, Ride Far, Ride Often

    Lee Fulton Forum Moderator
    3 Marakesh Red K75Ss
    Mine, Hers, Spare

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