Brake pads 2010 r1200r

Went to dealer to have my tires changed. I knew original brake pads were close to being worn out but dealer told me I would also need to replace all rhe disks. With 36k miles this seems a little premature. The disks are more than a thousand dollars and pads $250 from dealer. I'll probably buy some used disks but it seems like the only pads available are sintered or OEM organic. I don't want to wear out these disks any quicker. Are there any good after market organic brake pads available? What can happen if you run disks out of there wear limit? If they warp you could tell and then replace. Thanks

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jbarneshb said:

Went to dealer to have my tires changed. I knew original brake pads were close to being worn out but dealer told me I would also need to replace all rhe disks. With 36k miles this seems a little premature. The disks are more than a thousand dollars and pads $250 from dealer. I'll probably buy some used disks but it seems like the only pads available are sintered or OEM organic. I don't want to wear out these disks any quicker. Are there any good after market organic brake pads available? What can happen if you run disks out of there wear limit? If they warp you could tell and then replace. Thanks

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I find it very unusal that you'd need rotors at 36k miles.

My first R12R ('07) had 100k miles on it when I sold it - and the front rotors were still the original, and the rear had been replaced once with a Braking rotor. It did get one set of front pads in that time, and several sets of rear pads. The rear pad wear seemed excessive, so I removed the caliper from the carrier assembly and lubricated the sliding pins with a high quality grease, and that was the end for fast wear on the rear pads. On my current '12 R12R, I still have ALL the factory stock brake parts in it (except brake fluid - that gets flushed every 24 months.) I bought new pads for it thinking some day I might need them - but so far I haven't. It has 45k miles on it.

There is either something wrong with your braking system, your braking technique, or your dealers service department. One thing to try - go for a ride, try to pick a spot where you've done several stops from speed, and then can dismount your bike. See what the rotor temps are. BE CAREFUL DOING THIS - the rotor can get hot enough to burn you! If the rotor is hot enough to burn you - then something is binding in the brake system. Either the caliper or the hydraulics.

I do assume the bike has experienced regular fluid changes?

jbarneshb said:

Went to dealer to have my tires changed. I knew original brake pads were close to being worn out but dealer told me I would also need to replace all rhe disks. With 36k miles this seems a little premature. The disks are more than a thousand dollars and pads $250 from dealer. I'll probably buy some used disks but it seems like the only pads available are sintered or OEM organic. I don't want to wear out these disks any quicker. Are there any good after market organic brake pads available? What can happen if you run disks out of there wear limit? If they warp you could tell and then replace. Thanks

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You didn't mention whether the discs were actually at their wear limit. There's a camp that states you should change both at the same time so the pads and the discs mesh "better."

Have your dealer show you the micrometer readout that shows your disc need replaced (out of spec). If he doesn't, I would buy original BMW pads and put them on yourself. There is very little to it. This disc should be replaced when pads are is a myth. I doubt many follow that path, especially if disc mic to still be serviceable. I use to use EBC as a replacement, but had a bad couple of sets (vibrated during braking - there were high points beyond spec on pads) so went back to BMW and all was well.

2-3 sets of pads and still with OEM rotors. 68K miles. and within limits.

I actually have Don’s old bike...the ‘07! Thank you Don! It now has over 124k on the clock and I have replaced the pads ....only when I was doing a brake flush service. The rear pad needed it, but the fronts were still within spec, but I just did them all at the same time. The rotors are still just great. I totally agree with Don to check the rotor temp after a nice stop at speed. I also think you should actually check the spec your of the rotor. Hope this helps


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I don't believe the caliperss are sticking. I do a lot of city driving. Maybe I'm using the brakes too much. I checked the thickness myself and they have all worn out pretty evenly. I am going to stick with organic pads and look for some more rotors.

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