I can’t remove the cover on a Bing carburetor because I can’t get any of the four flathead screws to turn. Maybe the screws were put on with some sort of adhesive. I’ve tried heating the screws but no luck. Any one got any experience on how to get the screws out without damaging the threads?
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Cover on Bing Carburetor
- Thread starter pedro_tx
- Start date
pglaves
#13338
Hand held impact driver with proper bit.
For example:
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-...ocphy=1022497&hvtargid=pla-420785539586&psc=1
For example:
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2905-...ocphy=1022497&hvtargid=pla-420785539586&psc=1
beemeruss
Member
One of the first tools a budding mechanic needs to be carefully trained to skillfully use IS a hammer. Hasn't changed much since large rocks eons ago.
Excellent tip on blocking the bottom corner of the carb prior to use of impact driver and application of the impact device, said hammer.
Be careful not to fix it till it breaks.
Friedle
Another trick would be to use the screwdriver bits from an electric screwdriver and position one in the slot of the screw. Using a large c-clamp, hold the bit in the upright position and use an open end wrench to turn the bit to break it free. Loosen the c-clamp as you go until the carb screw is loose enough to back fully out.
I would be afraid to use an impact driver on those soft carb bodies.
My socket set comes with various screwdriver bits that you can use with the 1/4 inch ratchet handle and I'd try that with some screwdriver anti-slip fluid instead of valve grinding compound. And I would heat the carb body, not the screw. if that didn't work then maybe the impact driver.
brook.reams
B Reams
Hi Pedro-Tex,
I always start with Kroil, or another suitable penetrating oil, before I swing a hammer or increase the level of brutality. A trick with these is to heat the area around the screw, then apply the Kroil (penetrating oil). Let it cool and the oil gets sucked into the threads. Try to remove the fastener again. If no luck, repeat. Patience is a virtue with corroded or stuck fasteners. Letting the Kroil penetrate overnight is also helpful.
I hope that helps.
Best.
Brook Reams.
I always start with Kroil, or another suitable penetrating oil, before I swing a hammer or increase the level of brutality. A trick with these is to heat the area around the screw, then apply the Kroil (penetrating oil). Let it cool and the oil gets sucked into the threads. Try to remove the fastener again. If no luck, repeat. Patience is a virtue with corroded or stuck fasteners. Letting the Kroil penetrate overnight is also helpful.
I hope that helps.
Best.
Brook Reams.
I agree with Brook but I prefer 50/50 mixture of acetone/atf as a penetrating oil. The acetone gets right in and will attack most adhesive stuff and the atf lubricates. And heat it again after the application of the penetrating oil to expand the metal around the screw.
dennisdarrow
#4869 Earned Lifetime mem
All of the advice is right on......Penetrating fluid, PROPER SIZE screwdriver bit, TIME, and yes an impact wrench as Mr. Glaves' points out, and I really do like the "C" clamp and bearing down on the bit method that Kurt advises...…….have done this myself and it works...….
Once you get them out, make sure you have some replacements on hand......Some anti-seize is fantastic to use......As a last resort before you mess it up send it to Bing out in Kansas for a tune-up....Dont mention the stuck screws in your communications. You might just avoid an extra charge for them to work their "magic" on the screws...……….God bless...
Once you get them out, make sure you have some replacements on hand......Some anti-seize is fantastic to use......As a last resort before you mess it up send it to Bing out in Kansas for a tune-up....Dont mention the stuck screws in your communications. You might just avoid an extra charge for them to work their "magic" on the screws...……….God bless...
Patience is your best friend
Take your time here PLEASE! Water soluble valve grinding compound on the flat screw driver bit is a great idea, be careful not load up the bottom of the bit or the slot. Please be careful with the heat as the carbs are just "pot metal" and that stuff melts unexpectedly at most any temperature over 212 degrees.
If you can, make a jig or form to set the carb body down into it so you can hold it steady and tight while you work on the screws. Remember, patience is the key to getting them out, you can always replace the screws but those carb bodies are a bit limited in supply.
Take your time here PLEASE! Water soluble valve grinding compound on the flat screw driver bit is a great idea, be careful not load up the bottom of the bit or the slot. Please be careful with the heat as the carbs are just "pot metal" and that stuff melts unexpectedly at most any temperature over 212 degrees.
If you can, make a jig or form to set the carb body down into it so you can hold it steady and tight while you work on the screws. Remember, patience is the key to getting them out, you can always replace the screws but those carb bodies are a bit limited in supply.
lkchris
Active member
IIRC I drilled one out once. Big surface area on the taper of the screw head to "grow attached" to the carb body. Shaft then came out no problem once I was able to remove the top.
Bing Agency has screws for INHEX tool, better than slotted or Phillips imho. INHEX = allen. TORX would be best, but haven't seen.
Bing Agency has screws for INHEX tool, better than slotted or Phillips imho. INHEX = allen. TORX would be best, but haven't seen.
