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Thread: Help - Can't remove Bolts Flywheel - R1100RS

  1. #1

    Help - Can't remove Bolts Flywheel - R1100RS

    Could use some advice, I cannot get any of the five bolts holding the clutch housing/flywheel to budge. I have used a braker bar and a cheap impact wrench. They won't move. Before I try heating them up, anything else I can try? Reading my Cylmers they are not cross threaded, correct?




    https://photos.app.goo.gl/uCY43F2vfQMwY8sGA

  2. #2
    I can't tell but did you block the flywheel?

    (Does the flywheel turn when you try and remove the bolts?)

  3. #3
    Registered User jandhumphreyme's Avatar
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    Time for concentrated heat.
    So often times it happens that we live our lives in chains
    And we never even know we have the key

  4. #4
    The BMW service manual calls for use of a special tool to lock the clutch in position prior to removal and during installation. The tool has part number 11 5 640.

    On the Max BMW website, using the search function for an R1100RS for part 115640, I find -
    115640 RAD SHR BL YZ250/450F 06-09 $56.99

    http://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSe...6&parts=115640

    The service manual for the R1100RS can be accessed at the following link -
    https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloa...air_Manual.pdf

    Removal of the clutch is covered on page 11.73. Other than the tool to secure the clutch to the case, no special methods are shown.

    Installation of the clutch is covered on page 11.86. The special tool is necessary. Tightening torques are 40 N-m plus an additional 32 degrees. New fasteners are to be used and the threads are to be oiled prior to installation.

    If your clutch has been removed previously, perhaps someone over-torqued the bolts or used red loctite. Careful application of direct heat may help.

  5. #5
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    You can lock the flywheel with the TDC hole.
    Use a 5/16 bolt about 3-4" long.
    Steady even pressure will break the bolts.
    The bolts are not not reusable.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by R65_Steve View Post
    I can't tell but did you block the flywheel?

    (Does the flywheel turn when you try and remove the bolts?)
    Not in the picture, but yes I did.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by robsryder View Post
    The BMW service manual calls for use of a special tool to lock the clutch in position prior to removal and during installation. The tool has part number 11 5 640.

    On the Max BMW website, using the search function for an R1100RS for part 115640, I find -
    115640 RAD SHR BL YZ250/450F 06-09 $56.99

    http://shop.maxbmw.com/fiche/PartsSe...6&parts=115640

    The service manual for the R1100RS can be accessed at the following link -
    https://www.rbracing-rsr.com/downloa...air_Manual.pdf

    Removal of the clutch is covered on page 11.73. Other than the tool to secure the clutch to the case, no special methods are shown.

    Installation of the clutch is covered on page 11.86. The special tool is necessary. Tightening torques are 40 N-m plus an additional 32 degrees. New fasteners are to be used and the threads are to be oiled prior to installation.

    If your clutch has been removed previously, perhaps someone over-torqued the bolts or used red loctite. Careful application of direct heat may help.
    Wow, thanks will take a look.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by jandhumphreyme View Post
    Time for concentrated heat.
    How much heat are we talking?

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by chuckku View Post
    How much heat are we talking?
    Butane or propane torch flame tip applied directly to the center of the head of the bolt for 30 seconds or so.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  10. #10

    Weld it

    I don't know what your access is, or what it looks like, but I have welded an allen wrench to stubborn or stripped allen screws on connecting rods to remove them. It gives you a little lever. As a bonus, it also applies heat.

  11. #11
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    If the bolts need to be replaced as per BMW Urban Legend, if you drill a 3/16" hole 1/2'' deep right down the centre and hit it with an impact, even a hand one, they will come out.

    If you don't want to spend the money on replacing bolts that don't need to be replaced, take your socket to a bench grinder and take the chamfer off the socket and then a little heat, to warm up any Loctite, and then use an impact, even a hand one.
    1997 R1100RT, 1981 KZ 440 LTD, R80RT, R90/6 sidecar, K1100RS,1983 K100RS (Cafe now)

    “The major civilizing force in the world is not religion, it is sex.”

  12. #12
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselyoda View Post
    If the bolts need to be replaced as per BMW Urban Legend,

    If you don't want to spend the money on replacing bolts that don't need to be replaced,
    With all due respect, the above is incorrect.
    These bolts are stretched to yield and should not be reused.
    The OE manual is very clear on that.
    One inmate on ADV riders ignored this warning and one of the heads broke off after riding a few miles on a fresh clutch assembly.
    Hardly worth not heeding that sound advice. Engineers are not always wrong.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  13. #13
    Registered User jandhumphreyme's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    With all due respect, the above is incorrect.
    These bolts are stretched to yield and should not be reused.
    The OE manual is very clear on that.
    One inmate on ADV riders ignored this warning and one of the heads broke off after riding a few miles on a fresh clutch assembly.
    Hardly worth not heeding that sound advice. Engineers are not always wrong.
    Well said mate, spot on. Said bolt pack is around $14.00 on dealer website, should not break anyone's budget.
    So often times it happens that we live our lives in chains
    And we never even know we have the key

  14. #14
    Curmudgeon nrpetersen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    Engineers are not always wrong.
    They were when BMW did the Oilhead spline/TIR fiasco (and I am one too). I would be inclined to reuse the bolts too if not convenient to replace. I recall the hex heads are ridiculously shallow which is probably the reason they want them replaced.

    BTW - Grinding the socket is an excellent idea.
    Retired w 2005 K1200LT, 2000 R1100RT, & 1975 R90/6

  15. #15
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    I offered the solution. 10 riders are happy riders.

    https://advrider.com/f/attachments/n...s-jpg.1658732/
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

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