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Thread: 2002 R1150R dies once at operating temperature

  1. #16
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    Alright, I'm able to confirm that it consistently dies within 2 miles of start up. Also, once it dies I still have good spark and fuel flow. Replaced the fuel filter today and inspected the hoses in the tank. All good there. Fuel pump operating normally.

    Checked with a GS-911, no fault codes.


    I'm stumped. Any help is appreciated.


    Thanks,

    Jim

  2. #17
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    So far, about $7.00 for the fuel filter?

    You are sure you hear the fuel pump when it quits? I would think likely at this point.

    Next, you need to confirm you still have spark. There are some super cheap spark testers available at the local parts stores. Pick up one of those and confirm spark.

    The ignition coil is probable but you might have the distinction of being the first I've read here that has a coil go bad when hot.

    No codes only means you don't have an electronic problem. I have my brother's girlfriend's Mercedes C300 in my shop for a no start. Mercedes wanted $3K for some module of some kind but the car had no codes. Turns out the "eye" inside the key fob was full of "stuff". A little Brakleen and a Q-tip to clean the eye solved the problem.

    It might be as simple as the points in a relay getting hot and not carrying current. I would try swapping relays around as well.
    1997 R1100RT, 1981 KZ 440 LTD, R80RT, R90/6 sidecar, K1100RS,1983 K100RS (Cafe now)

    “The major civilizing force in the world is not religion, it is sex.”

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by dieselyoda View Post
    So far, about $7.00 for the fuel filter?

    You are sure you hear the fuel pump when it quits? I would think likely at this point.

    Next, you need to confirm you still have spark. There are some super cheap spark testers available at the local parts stores. Pick up one of those and confirm spark.

    The ignition coil is probable but you might have the distinction of being the first I've read here that has a coil go bad when hot.

    No codes only means you don't have an electronic problem. I have my brother's girlfriend's Mercedes C300 in my shop for a no start. Mercedes wanted $3K for some module of some kind but the car had no codes. Turns out the "eye" inside the key fob was full of "stuff". A little Brakleen and a Q-tip to clean the eye solved the problem.

    It might be as simple as the points in a relay getting hot and not carrying current. I would try swapping relays around as well.

    After it died tonight, and wouldn't start, I checked spark. I also pulled the fuel return line and checked flow while pushing start button. Then I checked spray at each injector. All were good.

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by jrsndman View Post
    After it died tonight, and wouldn't start, I checked spark. I also pulled the fuel return line and checked flow while pushing start button. Then I checked spray at each injector. All were good.
    Next time it dies check the timing of the spark with a timing light. I bet it is all over the place due to a bad Hall Effect Sensor or its wiring.

    I once had spark and injectors squirting with the engine not even turning over due to arcing from wire to wire inside the HES wiring bundle.
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  5. #20
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    Thank you all!


    Got it to die again today and worked quickly to find out that the Hall Sensor (TDC) is bad once warmed up. 180º sensor was fine. I was also able to replicate this failure with a heat gun.

    This is a newer Bosch HES with only 8,000 miles on it. Guess I'm going to try the Enduralast brand and see how it does.

  6. #21
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GSAddict View Post
    Was the replaced hall sensor new? or?

    Check out GSAddict. He has a lot of advice on these units.
    OM


    Quote Originally Posted by jrsndman View Post
    Thank you all!


    Got it to die again today and worked quickly to find out that the Hall Sensor (TDC) is bad once warmed up. 180º sensor was fine. I was also able to replicate this failure with a heat gun.

    This is a newer Bosch HES with only 8,000 miles on it. Guess I'm going to try the Enduralast brand and see how it does.
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
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  7. #22
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrsndman View Post
    Thank you all!


    Got it to die again today and worked quickly to find out that the Hall Sensor (TDC) is bad once warmed up. 180º sensor was fine. I was also able to replicate this failure with a heat gun.

    This is a newer Bosch HES with only 8,000 miles on it. Guess I'm going to try the Enduralast brand and see how it does.
    Bosch should warranty it.............maybe. I was a Bosch Rep on the diesel side for about 8 years and I rarely warrantied anything. My go to line was, "you had water in the fuel."

    But, at 8,000 kms, I am now wondering if your reluctor wheel, or rotor if you want to call it that, isn't either loose or perhaps accidentally changed shape?
    1997 R1100RT, 1981 KZ 440 LTD, R80RT, R90/6 sidecar, K1100RS,1983 K100RS (Cafe now)

    “The major civilizing force in the world is not religion, it is sex.”

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