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2002 R1150R dies once at operating temperature

J

jrsndman

New member
My 2002 R1150R died on the way home from work the other night. It was a nice 75º day. Cranked over just fine but wouldn't start. After about 30 minutes on the side of the road it started right up and ran fine. I made it a few more miles before it died again. I repeated this process 4 times before I finally made it home.

I'm having trouble diagnosing this as it only dies once its up to temperature.

I can confirm that the following (though I haven't been able to check these when it won't start):

  • side stand switch is good
  • Hall sensor is good (replaced 8k miles ago)
  • have spark
  • have fuel flow from injectors (though it doesn't look strong, I'm not sure how strong it should be)

Any thoughts or advice is appreciated!

Thanks,

Jim
 
Your 2002, it’s still a single spark model right? One spark plug on each side. If so, you have a central ignition coil. Gets hot and stops sparking, cools off and sparks again. If your bike has stick coils, I can’t help you.
 
m_stock10506 said:
Your 2002, it’s still a single spark model right? One spark plug on each side. If so, you have a central ignition coil. Gets hot and stops sparking, cools off and sparks again. If your bike has stick coils, I can’t help you.
Click to expand...

Correct, single spark. This echoes what I'm thinking... I've got another coil on the way from Beemer Boneyard, just wanted to see if there is something I'm not thinking of.


Thanks!
 
GSAddict said:
Was the replaced hall sensor new? or?
Click to expand...

Yes, brand new Hall Sensor about 8k miles ago. It's in great shape, one of the first things I checked. Also, when the original HES failed it was more of a sputter and stall. This is just a stall, no sputter.
 
jrsndman said:
My 2002 R1150R died on the way home from work the other night. It was a nice 75º day. Cranked over just fine but wouldn't start. After about 30 minutes on the side of the road it started right up and ran fine. I made it a few more miles before it died again. I repeated this process 4 times before I finally made it home.

I'm having trouble diagnosing this as it only dies once its up to temperature.

I can confirm that the following (though I haven't been able to check these when it won't start):

  • side stand switch is good
  • Hall sensor is good (replaced 8k miles ago)
  • have spark
  • have fuel flow from injectors (though it doesn't look strong, I'm not sure how strong it should be)

Any thoughts or advice is appreciated!

Thanks,

Jim
Click to expand...
You probably have a split hose in the tank.

—Separate the two halves of the upper QD (fuel return line)
—press in the check valve on the male (left hand) QD
—turn the key on

During the 1-2 seconds that the fuel pump runs you should get a strong surge of fuel.

If the bike will idle and you can direct the flow into a container you should get about 2 liters in one minute. If the bike won’t idle you can jumper the fuel pump relay with the bike off.

If you get a strong surge and/or 2 liters/min, the pump filter and hoses in the tank are good.
 
roger 04 rt said:
You probably have a split hose in the tank.

—Separate the two halves of the upper QD (fuel return line)
—press in the check valve on the male (left hand) QD
—turn the key on

During the 1-2 seconds that the fuel pump runs you should get a strong surge of fuel.

If the bike will idle and you can direct the flow into a container you should get about 2 liters in one minute. If the bike won’t idle you can jumper the fuel pump relay with the bike off.

If you get a strong surge and/or 2 liters/min, the pump filter and hoses in the tank are good.
Click to expand...

Thanks Roger. I’m not sure I understand why the bike will run fine for 20 mins or more and then stop. If there was an issue with a hose in the tank or fuel flow, wouldn’t it be there all the time?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
I'm thinking coil.

Had this same issue with a car once. Of course, that was about 100 years ago before every plug got its own fancy-shmancy, private-use-only coil. :laugh
 
BC1100S said:
I'm thinking coil.

Had this same issue with a car once. Of course, that was about 100 years ago before every plug got its own fancy-shmancy, private-use-only coil. :laugh
Click to expand...

This is a single spark version, no individual coils.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Alright, I'm able to confirm that it consistently dies within 2 miles of start up. Also, once it dies I still have good spark and fuel flow. Replaced the fuel filter today and inspected the hoses in the tank. All good there. Fuel pump operating normally.

Checked with a GS-911, no fault codes.


I'm stumped. Any help is appreciated.


Thanks,

Jim
 
So far, about $7.00 for the fuel filter?

You are sure you hear the fuel pump when it quits? I would think likely at this point.

Next, you need to confirm you still have spark. There are some super cheap spark testers available at the local parts stores. Pick up one of those and confirm spark.

The ignition coil is probable but you might have the distinction of being the first I've read here that has a coil go bad when hot.

No codes only means you don't have an electronic problem. I have my brother's girlfriend's Mercedes C300 in my shop for a no start. Mercedes wanted $3K for some module of some kind but the car had no codes. Turns out the "eye" inside the key fob was full of "stuff". A little Brakleen and a Q-tip to clean the eye solved the problem.

It might be as simple as the points in a relay getting hot and not carrying current. I would try swapping relays around as well.
 
dieselyoda said:
So far, about $7.00 for the fuel filter?

You are sure you hear the fuel pump when it quits? I would think likely at this point.

Next, you need to confirm you still have spark. There are some super cheap spark testers available at the local parts stores. Pick up one of those and confirm spark.

The ignition coil is probable but you might have the distinction of being the first I've read here that has a coil go bad when hot.

No codes only means you don't have an electronic problem. I have my brother's girlfriend's Mercedes C300 in my shop for a no start. Mercedes wanted $3K for some module of some kind but the car had no codes. Turns out the "eye" inside the key fob was full of "stuff". A little Brakleen and a Q-tip to clean the eye solved the problem.

It might be as simple as the points in a relay getting hot and not carrying current. I would try swapping relays around as well.
Click to expand...


After it died tonight, and wouldn't start, I checked spark. I also pulled the fuel return line and checked flow while pushing start button. Then I checked spray at each injector. All were good.
 
jrsndman said:
After it died tonight, and wouldn't start, I checked spark. I also pulled the fuel return line and checked flow while pushing start button. Then I checked spray at each injector. All were good.
Click to expand...

Next time it dies check the timing of the spark with a timing light. I bet it is all over the place due to a bad Hall Effect Sensor or its wiring.

I once had spark and injectors squirting with the engine not even turning over due to arcing from wire to wire inside the HES wiring bundle.
 
Thank you all!


Got it to die again today and worked quickly to find out that the Hall Sensor (TDC) is bad once warmed up. 180º sensor was fine. I was also able to replicate this failure with a heat gun.

This is a newer Bosch HES with only 8,000 miles on it. Guess I'm going to try the Enduralast brand and see how it does.
 
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