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2002 R1150RTP engine shuts down

BILLK75

New member
For the last couple weeks my 2002 R1150 RTP will lose power at freeway speed’s for less than a second the engine shuts off and then comes right back it has done this multiple times. Last week It shut down and would not restart. It was 97° out. But 20 minutes later it fired up and ran for about five seconds and then shut down. Any ideas what might be the cause
 
For the last couple weeks my 2002 R1150 RTP will lose power at freeway speed’s for less than a second the engine shuts off and then comes right back it has done this multiple times. Last week It shut down and would not restart. It was 97° out. But 20 minutes later it fired up and ran for about five seconds and then shut down. Any ideas what might be the cause
I own a 2002 R1150 RT and I’m no expert on the subject, however what you’re describing sounds like a fried Hall Sensor. I’m sure GSAddict and others will be along shortly to offer their thoughts. There are other possibilities as well to consider, but given the year of your bike and that the Hall Sensors are a known problem on our vintage RT’s it seems likely that is your issue.


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Sounds like Hall sensor symptoms, is it a higher mileage bike?
2002 is the year that the HES wiring was upgraded, you may have the old style wire or not.
If it's the old style I can help you.
Here is how to tell.
 

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1150rt

Sounds like Hall sensor symptoms, is it a higher mileage bike?
2002 is the year that the HES wiring was upgraded, you may have the old style wire or not.
If it's the old style I can help you.
Here is how to tell.
It has a new style hall sensor, it was installed about a year ago. It was a used sensor. Will the sensor act up under dry conditions?
 
It has a new style hall sensor, it was installed about a year ago. It was a used sensor. Will the sensor act up under dry conditions?

The hall sensors are semiconductor devices. When they get old or are exposed to excessive heat it is not uncommon to experience flaky behaviour such as you described. Heat and moisture creates steam in there which gets into the wiring when the wire sheathing is breaking down and not insulating properly anymore is on failure condition.

The Hall Sensor plate lives in a very high heat area so yes, even though it is dry it can fail just from the heat and then resume working after it cools down. But the circuit in the hall sensor is damaged and will not be reliable.

Note that bad or failing coils can exhibit the same symptoms.
 
It has a new style hall sensor, it was installed about a year ago. It was a used sensor. Will the sensor act up under dry conditions?
The sensors can but it is very rare.
Scan with a GS 911 and see if it left a stored code.

I have had the odd sensor fail when heated on my rotating tester only to work again upon cooling. Maybe 2 in all the units I've done.
 
You described a fault we had in every service truck we had back in the '90's and it was the fuel pump every time.

The defining diagnosis was to kick the fuel tank, not an easy task in the winter, but every single time, the truck ran until it quit again, got kicked again and then into the shop where we would see another one and ask for "light duties".

They never came in with an empty tank of fuel.
 
Possibly a dying battery starting to hiccup.

Is the electrical connection to the gas tank (right side, below the rear of the tank) secure?

Looking for more definitive clues: When it shuts off, do you still have lights? And specifically, does the RID stay on or go blank?
 
Update

The sensors can but it is very rare.
Scan with a GS 911 and see if it left a stored code.

I have had the odd sensor fail when heated on my rotating tester only to work again upon cooling. Maybe 2 in all the units I've done.

I replaced the Hall sensor and the bike ran fine. Took it for a short ride and after about five minutes it died. Preliminary testing shows no spark. Any suggestions
 
This may be a stupid question but how do you test a coil.

Not a stupid question, but tricky to do. You can check resistance across the primary and the secondary terminals of the coil. But, this will only prove a problem if the coil has failed completely. My own experiences with bad coils has been they only failed when hot, after running for a while. They cool down and the bike starts again, until eventually it won't and you end up stuck somewhere.

You could take a chance on a used coil on eBay. Buy a new one. Borrow a coil from a friend and see if the problem goes away.
 
Not a stupid question, but tricky to do. You can check resistance across the primary and the secondary terminals of the coil. But, this will only prove a problem if the coil has failed completely. My own experiences with bad coils has been they only failed when hot, after running for a while. They cool down and the bike starts again, until eventually it won't and you end up stuck somewhere.

You could take a chance on a used coil on eBay. Buy a new one. Borrow a coil from a friend and see if the problem goes away.

:thumb on all points.
 
In my experience, a coil can break down when hot but the symptoms have always showed at hard acceleration when the coil dwell time is at it's lowest.

An instant stall/stutter when the engine is hot points me to the fuel filter first, fuel pump second and sometimes a relay.

Unless you are certain you are losing spark when the bike stalls, just take a few seconds and listen to the fuel pump. The sound it makes might give clues.
 
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