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2007 R 1200 RT ABS Brake Failure - Where do I tap on the module?

jnick

New member
Recently purchased 2007 R1200RT, 17k miles, regularly maintained by PO at the local dealer (Max BMW in Troy NY).
Brake failure light came on yesterday and stays on solid. Tested ABS by locking the rear and there is no ABS.
I'm going on a long ride in a few weeks (Cape Breton Island) and want the ABS working. Before bringing it to the dealership and bending over, I thought that I'd try tapping the module with a hammer as has been suggested on this forum. If that works, I was going to send the unit in to ModuleMasters over the winter for refurbishment.
I don't have a code reader for the bike. The battery is relatively new and has good voltage. The brake lights work fine if that matters.
So, the question is:
After removing the plastics and getting access to the ABS unit, where should I hit it?
Thanks!
 
I just spoke to Max BMW and they said that "it will most likely require an ABS pump rebuild" for which they quoted $700. That's more reasonable than I thought so I'm just going to let them deal with it.
 
Recently purchased 2007 R1200RT, 17k miles, regularly maintained by PO at the local dealer (Max BMW in Troy NY).
Brake failure light came on yesterday and stays on solid. Tested ABS by locking the rear and there is no ABS.
I'm going on a long ride in a few weeks (Cape Breton Island) and want the ABS working. Before bringing it to the dealership and bending over, I thought that I'd try tapping the module with a hammer as has been suggested on this forum. If that works, I was going to send the unit in to ModuleMasters over the winter for refurbishment.
I don't have a code reader for the bike. The battery is relatively new and has good voltage. The brake lights work fine if that matters.
So, the question is:
After removing the plastics and getting access to the ABS unit, where should I hit it?
Thanks!

Many of the 07 thru 12 ABS pump motors have had an issue of the brushes getting hung up in the brass holders. The motor is the 4” diameter black steel can on the aluminum abs block. You can access this by removing the air cleaner snorkel. Just tap gently with hammer handle a few times. That will generally free the brushes for awhile. If the abs pump now cycles during the start up and the brake light goes out after a short roll you are good to go for awhile. May last for hours or weeks.

This video walks you thru the actual repair steps. I repaired my 10 RT 3 years ago and it still works fine
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zFNkluQ_cbM
 
As an update, when I went to drop the bike off at Max BMW they said that if I wanted the pump rebuilt ($700) instead of replaced ($2000) that I would need to leave the bike for 3-4 weeks. It would have been nice if they'd mentioned that on the phone but I suppose that I should have known better to expect a quick repair on a part that needs to be sent out. Anyway, that didn't suit my needs (I'm riding out to Cape Breton Island next weekend) so I took off the bodywork and the intake snorkel and tapped on the ABS pump with the handle of a ball-peen hammer about 10 times in different spots and it seems to have temporarily fixed the problem.
The youtube video on bodywork removal from Max BMW was very helpful, so I guess I'll give them credit for that at least.
As an aside, the bike is much nicer to work on than my KTM 1190 Adventure.
 
Yep, if it’s to the point where you have to malletize it you may as well rebuild it now, it’s on its way out. Modulemeister did mine for a very reasonable price. Mine was on a 3000 mile 2000 k1200rs that still had original tires on it. Rich guy with too many toys. Paid $3k for basically new bike.
 
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