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Thread: System Case Bag Repair - Hooks

  1. #1
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    System Case Bag Repair - Hooks

    BrokenBag.png

    A deer knocked my right bag off the bike (R1100RT), breaking the hooks at the top that the bag hangs from and holds onto the bike. I thought I saw photos where someone else made this repair before. Can someone point me to a previously successful repair of these two hooks?
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  2. #2
    While riding in Akron OH earlier this year I hit a pot hole so hard I broke off one of my hooks on the left side. The only solution I could live with was to replace the inside clam shell, or inside portion of the bag. This requires moving the multi-function box with new pop rivets and replacing the long pop rivets at the bottom hinge. Easy enough except for finding the correct rivets. BMW wants lots of money for 3 or 4 dollars worth of parts. These rivets are not SAE.

  3. #3
    Jerry Emhoff
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    Another idea, thereís a set of cases on the marketplace right now that are reasonably priced.
    Winter is coming

  4. #4
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Still havenít done anything about the bags. Have to get the no-start issue fixed. But, doing some research. Delrin plastic. Hard but shapeable. Some kind of polyethylene. Comes in rods in different diameters, and also in sheets of different thickness. Supposed to be difficult to work with adhesive, but some epoxies will work.

    Anyone have experience with this?
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  5. #5
    Registered User
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    Could you buy some aluminum flat bar stock and bend up hangers, rivet them to the case? Think of an upside down "L" shape with an extra hook on the short leg of the L.

    It might not work to add thickness to the hangers. I am not familiar with the latching/mounts on those bags.
    From the only real Fargo, ND!

  6. #6
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    I mess with Delrin and UMHW plastic in a lot of custom repairs. I don’t believe you can satisfactorily use glue in this repair. I don’t know these bags, the mounts are different than my F800GS.

    If you are not big on removal on a regular basis, you could drill appropriate holes and “lash” it on with good quality nylon/cable ties.

    I would still use a safety strap no matter what. I made some for my cases, I will look up the thread for an example.

    OM

    Safety strap thread- https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...stic)-Safety-s
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
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    2009 F800GS 1994 TW200

  7. #7
    Registered User m_stock10506's Avatar
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    Iím not planning to use adhesive to hold the repair in place. I was thinking of drilling holes and using screws to hold the repair on, and use an adhesive as a supplement to help hold the repair. But, some kind of additional strap or zip tie as a safety harness would make sense.
    Michael Stock, Trinity, NC
    R1100RT, R100, R60/6

  8. #8
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    Iím not planning to use adhesive to hold the repair in place. I was thinking of drilling holes and using screws to hold the repair on, and use an adhesive as a supplement to help hold the repair. But, some kind of additional strap or zip tie as a safety harness would make sense.
    If you use (threaded) screws, try to do a proper "pre-drill" to avoid a "wedge out" split. I just had to join Azek cellular PVC trim in an unconventional repair so I geared up with a KREG pocket-hole fastening system to make what appear to be satisfactory joints......The screws in the system along with the special pre-drill were a big plus.

    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
    Mod Squad
    2009 F800GS 1994 TW200

  9. #9
    This repair is likely going to be difficult due to the strength necessary for the "hook" attachment. Personally, I like the idea of using some aluminum "L-bracket" (1/4 inch thickness would be more desirable than 1/8-inch thick material, but there may be clearance and fit issues). I would use stainless fasteners over pop-rivets, (perhaps m4 size).

    Following are some videos that may be of interest. First is a DuPont video on Delrin. Next is a glue-type process for Delrin and other plastics. And finally is a video showing plastic welding. I have not successfully used any of these methods. I did use aluminum and epoxy to repair broken tabs mounting body work on a Triumph Tiger that I had.






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