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Thread: Light bulb replacement - recommendations

  1. #31
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Might you know what the actual current draw is for the Hikari 1150 low-beam replacement? That's looking pretty attractive... Really just a plug-n-play install? And do they only sell direct (or via FleaBay) or are there any dealers? Didn't find any on their site, grrr...

    Yeah, it's been kinda busy down here... too many "tangent" projects! Troubleshooting a neighbor's jet-ski, another neighbor's car, another neighbor's bike, lotsa stuff around the property... Retirement is NOT the vacation young 'uns think, the honey-do list just gets different priorities! And Valdi is on vacation (and Chris left and went to work for Ferrari - cool!) so I can't unload anything there. Ah well, life is good.

  2. #32
    Registered User rogerc60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    Might you know what the actual current draw is for the Hikari 1150 low-beam replacement? That's looking pretty attractive... Really just a plug-n-play install? And do they only sell direct (or via FleaBay) or are there any dealers? Didn't find any on their site, grrr...
    If you can wait til tomorrow I'll hook my spare Hikari bulb up to my bench power supply and measure the current draw. It really is plug-n-play. Just a wire dangling out the back with plug on the end, with the two conductor prongs; the bike's headlight connector just plugs right on. I liked that this bulb doesn't have a bulky external driver module box like some bulbs do. And I bought mine on Amazon.

  3. #33
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    I can wait! Thanks!

    Note: If a standard H7 is 55 watts, that works out to 4.58 amps @ 12.0 volts.
    And, according to Darryl at Cyclops, their assembly pulls 20 watts, = 1.66 amps.
    Last edited by Pauls1150; 09-13-2019 at 07:26 PM.

  4. #34
    Registered User rogerc60's Avatar
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    Hikari H7 LED headlight bulb current draw

    The Hikari H7 LED bulb draws:
    2.1A @ 12.0V
    1.8A @ 13.3V
    1.6A @ 14.7V

    So it appears the bulb consumes about 24W.

    Subjective temperature measurement: I operated the bulb in open air at room temperature on my bench for about 5 minutes. The heat sink fins got too hot for me to comfortably touch, but the shroud around the fan was cool enough that I could use it to hold the bulb for a few seconds.

    I've been using one of these in my R1150RT for 6 months with no problem. The hottest day so far has been about 95F, but typically I've been riding in 60F - 85F weather.

    Hope this info helps somebody.

  5. #35
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Thanks, Roger, that's good stuff to know! Much appreciated!

    According to Chris, the parts guy at Brown's Motor Works, whether or not a hole needs to be cut into the "cap" depends entirely on what the factory put in there during assembly: apparently there are two different caps, and both were used in the 1150RTs during different assembly runs over the years. One requires the hole, the other does not, so the consumer needs to see and decide what is required for himself. Then if a hole is required, a grommet and maybe some silicone is added to make darn sure it's waterproof.
    Darryl (at Cyclops) was not aware of this; he thought his 4.8 unit would fit all RTs.

    This brings up another question... With all the weatherproofing behind the headlight assembly, how hot will it actually get inside there when all the covers are closed up, and where & how is that heat going to dissipate? I love the idea of reducing the current thru that section of the wiring (especially considering how small the overall wiring that das faktory uses is), but certainly don't want to see anything turn dark and melty a few months or years down the road.

  6. #36
    Registered User rogerc60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    This brings up another question... With all the weatherproofing behind the headlight assembly, how hot will it actually get inside there when all the covers are closed up, and where & how is that heat going to dissipate? I love the idea of reducing the current thru that section of the wiring (especially considering how small the overall wiring that das faktory uses is), but certainly don't want to see anything turn dark and melty a few months or years down the road.
    That's a good question. A standard halogen H7 dissipates 55W, primarily from the "front" of the bulb (the glass envelop and the filament it encloses) which resides inside the reflector/lens portion of the headlight assembly. The H7 LED bulbs dissipate 20 - 24W primarily from the "back" of the bulb which resides in the back portion of the headlight assembly. I think it would be tough to do an apples to apples comparison on heat buildup without actually using temperature probes.

    Despite all of that, the fact remains that the total power dissipation with an LED bulb is approximately half that of the halogen bulb. Seems to me that heat buildup shouldn't be a problem.

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