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Thread: Light bulb replacement - recommendations

  1. #16
    Registered User tangoalpha's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by m_stock10506 View Post
    Your signature shows an 1150RT. If that's the bike in this discussion, my mistake. The 1150RT has H7 high and low beam bulbs, not a single H4 like the 1100RT. Sorry for throwing in a confusing comment.

    jnrugg - those Amazon sourced LED wedge bulbs you pointed to are no longer available with no info about any future resupply.
    Yesiree! My bike is an '02 R1150RT and at the rate I'm going I'm slowly spending my way to a, R1250RT. LOL!
    "Der Bimmer ist wunderbar."

    Tango Alpha
    2002 R1150RT

  2. #17
    Registered User jnrugg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangoalpha View Post
    I think I may as well replace the instrument bulbs as well. Was it very difficult to do? Are the bulbs easily accessible?
    Windshield, dash cover, dash have to come off.
    It's a pain but if I can do it.
    Even though the guys in the link don't sell them, just do a search and you will find others selling them.

    I also have an 02 RT and just had the final drive rebuilt again.
    I also test rode a 1250 GSA at the MOA rally and fell in love with it.
    Maybe in a couple of years when used ones come on the market.

  3. #18
    Registered User rogerc60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangoalpha View Post
    I think I may as well replace the instrument bulbs as well. Was it very difficult to do? Are the bulbs easily accessible?
    Not difficult. If you have the windshield assembly removed you may be able to get to the instrument bulbs without removing anything else. When I replaced mine I removed the four screws from the front of the instrument cluster at the corners and pulled the whole assembly back. The rubber bulb holders simply push into the holes; no quarter turn locking or anything like that. They'll likely be stuck tight in the holes so twist them back and forth to break them free, then just pull them out. It will take some force.

    I replaced mine with LED 74 equivalent bulbs from superbrightleds.com. I used colored bulbs to match the color of the lens. The fog light indicator is now actually a bit too bright; at night it dominates everything else in the instrument panel.

    If you're switching to LED, do not switch out the alternator bulb. It has to be an incandescent bulb for the charging system to work. (No first-hand experience with this, just repeating what I've read.)

  4. #19
    Registered User tangoalpha's Avatar
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    Roger,

    I need to look in to this a bit further...but to clarify, when you say remove the windshield assembly, I assume that you're referring to the metal frame that contains the windshield motor, gear assembly, arms, etc. Is that correct? I looked at this assembly closely and I saw that there appear to be 5 screws in total, 1 on each of the 4 corners and 1 more screw mounted upside down near the motor itself. At this stage, I think it would be a shame to get this far in the game and not replace those instrument bulbs. By the way, does the RID (Rider Information Display) have a bulb that can be replaced or is it not user serviceable? Also what about the speedo and tachometer lights? Do I have to open up the back of the gauges to access the light bulbs or are they accessible like the instrument cluster bulbs? eg...neutral light, high beam indicator, low oil light, etc.


    Quote Originally Posted by rogerc60 View Post
    Not difficult. If you have the windshield assembly removed you may be able to get to the instrument bulbs without removing anything else. When I replaced mine I removed the four screws from the front of the instrument cluster at the corners and pulled the whole assembly back. The rubber bulb holders simply push into the holes; no quarter turn locking or anything like that. They'll likely be stuck tight in the holes so twist them back and forth to break them free, then just pull them out. It will take some force.

    I replaced mine with LED 74 equivalent bulbs from superbrightleds.com. I used colored bulbs to match the color of the lens. The fog light indicator is now actually a bit too bright; at night it dominates everything else in the instrument panel.

    If you're switching to LED, do not switch out the alternator bulb. It has to be an incandescent bulb for the charging system to work. (No first-hand experience with this, just repeating what I've read.)
    Last edited by tangoalpha; 07-29-2019 at 01:34 AM.
    "Der Bimmer ist wunderbar."

    Tango Alpha
    2002 R1150RT

  5. #20
    Registered User tangoalpha's Avatar
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    Roger,

    I've decided to go with the Hikari H7 LED (low beam) per your recommendation. All the online reviews and Youtube videos I've seen rate these as the best and latest in latest LED chipset technology and seem to have better build quality than many of the others on the market. I also like the 2 year warranty which is always a plus. So with that sorted out, I've moved my attention to the H1 high beam and the two H3 fog light bulbs. Are you running LED's for your high beam and yellow fogs as well? Any recommendations for those? Hikari does sell an H1 (high beam) but no H3 (fog light) bulbs. Like you, I run with my fog lights on whenever I ride. I also have a set of PIAA's mounted underneath my oil cooler for added visibility.


    Quote Originally Posted by rogerc60 View Post
    Assuming that your '02 RT is very much like my '03 RT, here's the LED bulb I installed in mine:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GKRKN5B

    It fits entirely within the headlight enclosure and I did not have to cut any panels to make it fit. Here are some photos of the beam pattern this bulb produces. One photo with my fog lamps on, one with them off. (I also replaced the fog lamp bulbs with amber LED and run with them on all the time for added conspicuity.)

    The improvement in nighttime illumination over the stock halogen H7 is nothing short of remarkable.

    Attachment 74893
    Attachment 74894

    Edit: Seeing Paul_F's comments about installing the Cyclops I wanted to add that the LED bulb I used has a removable collar. It is this collar that clips into the headlight housing and is held in place with the spring clamp. Once you get that in place you can put the bulb in and turn it 1/8 turn to lock it in place. It then rotates in small click-stop increments to allow for fine tuning of the beam pattern.
    "Der Bimmer ist wunderbar."

    Tango Alpha
    2002 R1150RT

  6. #21
    Registered User rogerc60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangoalpha View Post
    when you say remove the windshield assembly, I assume that you're referring to the metal frame that contains the windshield motor, gear assembly, arms, etc. Is that correct? I looked at this assembly closely and I saw that there appear to be 5 screws in total, 1 on each of the 4 corners and 1 more screw mounted upside down near the motor itself. At this stage, I think it would be a shame to get this far in the game and not replace those instrument bulbs.
    Yes, that's what I meant. I figured that if you were working on the windshield you might have already removed it. If you haven't yet there's no need.. just pull the instrument panel out from the front (that is, toward the rear of the bike).

    By the way, does the RID (Rider Information Display) have a bulb that can be replaced or is it not user serviceable?
    I didn't pay much attention to that one, so I don't know.

    Also what about the speedo and tachometer lights? Do I have to open up the back of the gauges to access the light bulbs or are they accessible like the instrument cluster bulbs? eg...neutral light, high beam indicator, low oil light, etc.
    You need to pull the gauges out of the instrument panel back case to access their light bulbs. It's not difficult but you need to exercise care. After removing the nuts from the studs that protrude through the back case I found that the gauges were still stuck in the case. I tapped lightly on the studs with a small hammer to get the gauges loose enough to pull out. You may not need the hammer; just push on the studs an see what happens. Remember, these are relatively delicate mechanical (speedo) and electromechanical (tach) instruments.

  7. #22
    Registered User rogerc60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangoalpha View Post
    Roger,

    I've decided to go with the Hikari H7 LED (low beam) per your recommendation. All the online reviews and Youtube videos I've seen rate these as the best and latest in latest LED chipset technology and seem to have better build quality than many of the others on the market. I also like the 2 year warranty which is always a plus. So with that sorted out, I've moved my attention to the H1 high beam and the two H3 fog light bulbs. Are you running LED's for your high beam and yellow fogs as well? Any recommendations for those? Hikari does sell an H1 (high beam) but no H3 (fog light) bulbs. Like you, I run with my fog lights on whenever I ride. I also have a set of PIAA's mounted underneath my oil cooler for added visibility.
    My high beam is still incandescent. The maintenance manual for your bike is wrong: the high beam is an H3, not an H1. I haven't yet found an LED H3 with sufficiently high light output and proper construction; they all seem to either be made for fog lights (low light output) or have enough light but have the LEDs mounted on a large round or square center post (horrible beam pattern).

    I used these for the fog lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CTMT01G

    On the flange are two alignment notches, one with square corners and the other rounded. These are 90 degrees away from where they need to be for the RT. The bulbs must be oriented in the fog light housing with the LEDs pointing left/right, not front/back. I used a dremel tool to cut two more notches in the flanges.

    My bike had stereo speakers but no stereo (I don't know how that happened and frankly don't care). I removed the speakers and it gave me much more room to work on the fog lights.

  8. #23
    Registered User tangoalpha's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogerc60 View Post
    Yes, that's what I meant. I figured that if you were working on the windshield you might have already removed it. If you haven't yet there's no need.. just pull the instrument panel out from the front (that is, toward the rear of the bike).



    I didn't pay much attention to that one, so I don't know.



    You need to pull the gauges out of the instrument panel back case to access their light bulbs. It's not difficult but you need to exercise care. After removing the nuts from the studs that protrude through the back case I found that the gauges were still stuck in the case. I tapped lightly on the studs with a small hammer to get the gauges loose enough to pull out. You may not need the hammer; just push on the studs an see what happens. Remember, these are relatively delicate mechanical (speedo) and electromechanical (tach) instruments.
    Oh Boy! Sounds like fun....NOT! But, truly if there's anything that suffers from poor illumination it's my gauges (tach/speedo). I guess I'm just gonna have to suck it and Git R' Done. Thanks for all the tips by the way!
    "Der Bimmer ist wunderbar."

    Tango Alpha
    2002 R1150RT

  9. #24
    Registered User tangoalpha's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogerc60 View Post
    My high beam is still incandescent. The maintenance manual for your bike is wrong: the high beam is an H3, not an H1. I haven't yet found an LED H3 with sufficiently high light output and proper construction; they all seem to either be made for fog lights (low light output) or have enough light but have the LEDs mounted on a large round or square center post (horrible beam pattern).

    I used these for the fog lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CTMT01G

    On the flange are two alignment notches, one with square corners and the other rounded. These are 90 degrees away from where they need to be for the RT. The bulbs must be oriented in the fog light housing with the LEDs pointing left/right, not front/back. I used a dremel tool to cut two more notches in the flanges.

    My bike had stereo speakers but no stereo (I don't know how that happened and frankly don't care). I removed the speakers and it gave me much more room to work on the fog lights.
    WOW! Really glad that I took your advice on this and didn't get ahead of myself by placing an order before I read your next reply. It pays to be patient, otherwise I'd be sitting on a set of $50 LED H1 Bulbs that are totally useless to me. Thanks for that Buddy. Much appreciated! So my Owners manual is printed incorrectly as you stated and ironically there is also no mention of what size bulbs the fogs lights are either. So it appears that both the fog light bulbs and the high beam are H3's.
    "Der Bimmer ist wunderbar."

    Tango Alpha
    2002 R1150RT

  10. #25
    Registered User tangoalpha's Avatar
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    Parts arrived!

    Well...my Amazon order arrived today....I sure do love Prime delivery 2 day (free) shipping. I installed the Hikari LED (Low beam) and the two yellow LED fog lights. Everything fit perfectly without absolutely no modifications needed. Afterwards, I tested the lights....Boy am I glad that I did this. The light output is those LED make is totally insane. That was a much needed and MAJOR upgrade in the lighting department.

    On to the next project!
    "Der Bimmer ist wunderbar."

    Tango Alpha
    2002 R1150RT

  11. #26
    Registered User rogerc60's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangoalpha View Post
    Well...my Amazon order arrived today....I sure do love Prime delivery 2 day (free) shipping. I installed the Hikari LED (Low beam) and the two yellow LED fog lights. Everything fit perfectly without absolutely no modifications needed. Afterwards, I tested the lights....Boy am I glad that I did this. The light output is those LED make is totally insane. That was a much needed and MAJOR upgrade in the lighting department.

    On to the next project!

  12. #27
    Registered User Blueman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangoalpha View Post
    Well...my Amazon order arrived today....I sure do love Prime delivery 2 day (free) shipping. I installed the Hikari LED (Low beam) and the two yellow LED fog lights. Everything fit perfectly without absolutely no modifications needed. Afterwards, I tested the lights....Boy am I glad that I did this. The light output is those LED make is totally insane. That was a much needed and MAJOR upgrade in the lighting department.

    Did you go with the Calais LED fog lamps?
    Richard Stone
    2004 R1150RT Biarritz Blue
    1978 R100RS Cafe Racer
    Often wrong.....never in doubt.

  13. #28
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    TangoA - I'm pretty sure the RID is an LCD (Liquid Crystal Display), so it makes its own light - no extra bulb.

  14. #29
    Registered User tangoalpha's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blueman View Post
    Did you go with the Calais LED fog lamps?
    I sure did. I ordered the yellow bulbs. They came out great. I think itís a big improvement over stock. So I now have LEDís for fog lights, headlamps, rear tail light/turn signals and front turn signals.

    The only bulbs that are still incandescent are the instrument panel. I wanted to replace them as well, but after seeing whatís involved I honestly began to lose interest. Getting to all of those tiny wedge bulbs for the gauges and idiot lights seems like a major PITA.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    "Der Bimmer ist wunderbar."

    Tango Alpha
    2002 R1150RT

  15. #30
    Registered User tangoalpha's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    TangoA - I'm pretty sure the RID is an LCD (Liquid Crystal Display), so it makes its own light - no extra bulb.
    Hi Paul. Long time no talk... Thanks for the clarification on the RID being LCD. I wasnít sure inherently whether LCDís made their own light or if they relied on backlighting. So at this point, I think Iím done with the LED upgrades on the bike. Iíve opted to leave the instruments (gauges and idiot lights) as incandescent. All in all Iím very happy with the outcome.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    "Der Bimmer ist wunderbar."

    Tango Alpha
    2002 R1150RT

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