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106K miles on R1200RT

C

charlesodle

New member
Should I be concerned with age problems at 106K on my 2016 R1200RT? The bike has had all of the recommended services at Big 1 Motorsports in Birmingham and their service department has always done an excellent job. I traded my 2004 R1150RT with 84K miles and the 2007 R1200RT at 92K - no big problems with them. Opinions appreciated.
 
Wow and I thought I rode a lot! What have you had to have replaced, so far? I'm interested because I have a 16 RT.

If it's running good, my advise would be to keep riding it!
 
I don't know about the new fangled bikes, but Fred Tausch had over 600,000 miles on his R60/5 and I met a feller at the 40th anniversary gathering of the R100RS a couple of years ago that claimed that his RS had more than 1,000,000 miles on it.

You might need to replace some worn parts now and again.

How is the suspension holding up? What do the wheel bearings feel like? Any stripped fasteners? If you use the BMW gps, can you still get it on and off the mount easily? How is the wobbly wheel on the left handlebar holding up?
 
charlesodle said:
Should I be concerned with age problems at 106K on my 2016 R1200RT? The bike has had all of the recommended services at Big 1 Motorsports in Birmingham and their service department has always done an excellent job. I traded my 2004 R1150RT with 84K miles and the 2007 R1200RT at 92K - no big problems with them. Opinions appreciated.
Click to expand...

No one is really sure how 'consumable' the drive shaft w/ its two sets of u-joints that are part of the assembly is, but we have read of a couple that needed replaced around 72K-80K miles, both due to rust. The theory goes that it is moisture in the housing from a couple potential sources. I plan on replacing the one on my '16 if n when I get to 80K miles even if it's still good because I'm not fond of the idea of what can happen when one fails while riding. Expensive though--about $1200.
 
Dang! From MAXBMW on-line parts fiche -
33 73 8 531 102 DRIVE SHAFT 5.53 1 $1226.22

The drive shaft doesn't look like anything special. There were problems with the longevity of the drive shafts in the R100GS bikes and other folks came out with alternatives (e.g., Ted Porter stocks a rebuildable driveshaft for the R100GS for about half of what the RTW shaft costs). I expect that such will soon be the case if the RTW drive shafts don't last the life of the bike or fail in a few years.
 
I think water entry is the only real reason why the drive shafts fail. My friend's went at 30k and it was rusted and clearly had been exposed to water. I pulled mine out at 88k to replace the rear transmission seal and it looked brand new. Hardly any noticeable wear. I think it will easily go to 200k without a problem so long as the boot stays sealed.
 
robsryder said:
Dang! From MAXBMW on-line parts fiche -
33 73 8 531 102 DRIVE SHAFT 5.53 1 $1226.22

The drive shaft doesn't look like anything special. There were problems with the longevity of the drive shafts in the R100GS bikes and other folks came out with alternatives (e.g., Ted Porter stocks a rebuildable driveshaft for the R100GS for about half of what the RTW shaft costs). I expect that such will soon be the case if the RTW drive shafts don't last the life of the bike or fail in a few years.
Click to expand...

It doesn't except that the u-joints aren't replaceable which is the unfortunate part. Let's hope that Ted Porter or another 3rd party will step up as there are surely plenty of wet head driveshafts to make a market.
 
natrab said:
I think water entry is the only real reason why the drive shafts fail. My friend's went at 30k and it was rusted and clearly had been exposed to water. I pulled mine out at 88k to replace the rear transmission seal and it looked brand new. Hardly any noticeable wear. I think it will easily go to 200k without a problem so long as the boot stays sealed.
Click to expand...

That's very good to know thanks though at what point do the bearings eventually go, w/o rust I wonder. What was involved in replacing the rear transmission seal? Was it leaking oil?
 
poco183 said:
Wow and I thought I rode a lot! What have you had to have replaced, so far? I'm interested because I have a 16 RT.

If it's running good, my advise would be to keep riding it!
Click to expand...

Both struts had to be replaced at about 50K, and a bunch of H7 bulbs.
 
106K on R1200RT

robsryder said:
I don't know about the new fangled bikes, but Fred Tausch had over 600,000 miles on his R60/5 and I met a feller at the 40th anniversary gathering of the R100RS a couple of years ago that claimed that his RS had more than 1,000,000 miles on it.

You might need to replace some worn parts now and again.

How is the suspension holding up? What do the wheel bearings feel like? Any stripped fasteners? If you use the BMW gps, can you still get it on and off the mount easily? How is the wobbly wheel on the left handlebar holding up?
Click to expand...

Both struts were replaced at about 50K. All bearings and seals good. I've never had to add oil between services. No problem with GPS. Lots of broken tabs on Tubberwear and Velcro had to be replaced.
 
charlesodle said:
Both struts were replaced at about 50K. All bearings and seals good. I've never had to add oil between services. No problem with GPS. Lots of broken tabs on Tubberwear and Velcro had to be replaced.
Click to expand...

What was the cost of the strut replacement?

Sounds like she is just getting broken in!
 
2016 GSA here, 132,000 miles. Regular maintenance although I am extending oil changes to about 10K, based on oil analysis. I've had the valves checked at the recommended intervals but they have never needed to be adjusted. Ever. I replaced the suspension with Traxion Dynamics units from Ted Porter's Beemer shop at about 110K, better and cheaper than OEM. Other than a weeping outboard seal on the final drive at 92K, taken care of no fuss, I've never had a mechanical issue with it. I finally replaced the OEM battery last week. I'm on my 17th rear tire and 11th front.

At this point I can't imagine anyone would want to buy my newish bike with high miles, and no dealer would be interested in it unless they wanted to add it to their loaner fleet. I figure my only choices are to (a) ride it until one of us dies, (b) part it out, or (c) buy another bike with no trade. I like it so the only real option is (a).
 
wbrownell9 said:
2016 GSA here, 132,000 miles. Regular maintenance although I am extending oil changes to about 10K, based on oil analysis. I've had the valves checked at the recommended intervals but they have never needed to be adjusted. Ever. I replaced the suspension with Traxion Dynamics units from Ted Porter's Beemer shop at about 110K, better and cheaper than OEM. Other than a weeping outboard seal on the final drive at 92K, taken care of no fuss, I've never had a mechanical issue with it. I finally replaced the OEM battery last week. I'm on my 17th rear tire and 11th front.

At this point I can't imagine anyone would want to buy my newish bike with high miles, and no dealer would be interested in it unless they wanted to add it to their loaner fleet. I figure my only choices are to (a) ride it until one of us dies, (b) part it out, or (c) buy another bike with no trade. I like it so the only real option is (a).
Click to expand...

How much for Traxion Dynamics? Front and rear? But no new drive shaft w/ u-joints that's encouraging.
 
charlesodle said:
About $6000 but was covered under long term warranty.
Click to expand...

This is why I didn't buy one with ESA. Wow!

You didn't pay for it luckily but $6k sounds high. The two parts new are about $4,600 (per MaxBMW) plus labor. The balance for labor must mean the Wethead shocks are as not as easily replaced as the previous gen. That or I'm in the wrong business! :cool:
 
I say if it ain't broke, don't fix it. And also do not test ride any brand new bikes at a dealer Open House, unless you're ready to get bitten by the New Bike Bug. Happens all the time...

Mrs-HSV has 150K mi on her now 11 yr old GS-twin; plans on keeping it until something major actually goes. And FWIW, I bought a 'gently used' 4-yr old K-GT with under 10K miles. There are other options regarding trading-in an old bike and getting "another" newer one.

As Alfred E Neuman used to say, "What, Me Worry? :thumb

My 2 cents - worth every penny, :brow
HSV-Phil & HSV-Karen
 
wbrownell9 said:
2016 GSA here, 132,000 miles. Regular maintenance although I am extending oil changes to about 10K, based on oil analysis. I've had the valves checked at the recommended intervals but they have never needed to be adjusted. Ever. I replaced the suspension with Traxion Dynamics units from Ted Porter's Beemer shop at about 110K, better and cheaper than OEM. Other than a weeping outboard seal on the final drive at 92K, taken care of no fuss, I've never had a mechanical issue with it. I finally replaced the OEM battery last week. I'm on my 17th rear tire and 11th front.

At this point I can't imagine anyone would want to buy my newish bike with high miles, and no dealer would be interested in it unless they wanted to add it to their loaner fleet. I figure my only choices are to (a) ride it until one of us dies, (b) part it out, or (c) buy another bike with no trade. I like it so the only real option is (a).
Click to expand...

I agree. Ride it until one of us dies.
 
CHP here in California keeps there air cooled bikes to 150,000 miles, usually a new clutch midlife
Several PD’s are approaching that figure, with there LC bikes with little more than normal service
Considering law enforcement bikes are generally ridden harder than our bikes, I would ride it till it quits or wanted a newer one
Jim
 
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