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Thread: Advice please - 2002 r1150r won't start

  1. #1

    Advice please - 2002 r1150r won't start

    My 02 r1150r with 100k miles was running just fine, with no starting issues. I pulled the subframe and airbox to repaint, and when I put it all back together it won't start.

    The fuel pump hums when the key is turned.
    There is about 1 gallon of gas in the tank.
    The starter turns the engine over robustly.
    The battery is fully charged at 12.9 volts.
    Both new plugs are getting spark.

    I pulled it apart again and made sure there were no kinked lines that I could find. The quick disconnect fuel lines dribble some fuel when I disconnect them, so it appears they flow fuel.
    There are no blown fuses.
    I made sure there were no obstructions in the air intake.

    Any thoughts?

    Thank you for any help!

  2. #2
    Since you seem to have double checked air, start & ignition....and by your description seem OK....I go back to fuel. Yes you have it in the tank but, is it getting to the cylinders ? Are the plugs wet when you remove them ? Have you checked for injector spray ?

    Did you inadvertently disconnect the Motronic unit ? Or any leads in that circuit ?

    Yes I know it doesn't seem an issue but .... double check the kill switch.
    Ron Prior {AMA member ,MOA member}
    Milford,Oh
    2002 KLT
    2004 Roadster

  3. #3
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    The connector for the side stand kill switch is located on the upper left side just under the seat by the airbox. I would check it...
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  4. #4
    When either the side stand or handlebar kill switches are engaged it won't turn over at all, so I think I can rule those out.

  5. #5
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    If the fuel quick-disconnects were separated then not completely clicked in place on reassembly it is possible for the fuel line to be blown off the filter or the pump. The pump puts out around 100psi pressure and if the QDs are not fully “clicked” into place that pressure has nowhere to go so blows the fuel line loose, usually at the filter. Try opening the fuel cap then turning on the switch, see if you hear fuel splashing inside the tank. You could also check to see if the injectors are actually spraying fuel when the engine is cranked.

    Best,
    DeVern
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST — 1984 R80 G/S-PD — 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C — 2010 K1300GT — 2018 R1200GS
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  6. #6
    Pepperfool GSAddict's Avatar
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    As said, pull an injector and see if it is shooting fuel.
    '
    Ufda happens..........

    Need your R11xx Hall sensor rewired? PM me.

  7. #7
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    Perhaps check the battery voltage while cranking. So many of these problems can be traced back to a battery that isn’t quite making it.
    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
    Mod Squad
    2009 F800GS 1994 TW200

  8. #8
    Battery sags to ~9.5 while cranking. Seems pretty strong. Will try the injector next.

    I picked up a fuel filter - do I need a new set of gaskets or can I reuse the ones in there?

  9. #9
    injectors seem to be spraying. On to re-re-recheck all electrical connectors.

  10. #10
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spaceweasel View Post
    Battery sags to ~9.5 while cranking. Seems pretty strong. Will try the injector next.

    I picked up a fuel filter - do I need a new set of gaskets or can I reuse the ones in there?
    Not a good sign. When you get down near 9.2 volts,

    Parallel on with a good battery- (jump like) and see it run.

    BTW, how old is your battery?
    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
    Mod Squad
    2009 F800GS 1994 TW200

  11. #11
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    The ECU needs a minimum of 10VDC in order to boot properly. So 9.5 will cause problems. If it will start with a good battery connected with booster cables your battery may well be the problem.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  12. #12
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    Took it all apart?................look to a missed ground.
    1997 R1100RT, 1981 KZ 440 LTD, R80RT, R90/6 sidecar, K1100RS,1983 K100RS (Cafe now)

    “The major civilizing force in the world is not religion, it is sex.”

  13. #13

    It's alive!

    Thanks for all the help, everyone. I continued checking everything I could think of along with doing every maintenance item that I could find. Need to replace the alternator belt... maybe it's the hall sensor. Nope, wires seem in good shape. Brake pads, tires, and fluid flush... that's probably not keeping it from starting. Need to replace the fuel filter...maybe it's the fuel pump. After removing the pump/filter plate I noticed the hose between them had slipped off. Did I do that while pulling it out? I didn't think so, but replaced the filter and put new clamps on everything. Put it back together and - voila! She runs. Thanks again for all the input and advice.

  14. #14
    Good to hear!!!!!

  15. #15
    Registered User roger 04 rt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spaceweasel View Post
    Thanks for all the help, everyone. I continued checking everything I could think of along with doing every maintenance item that I could find. Need to replace the alternator belt... maybe it's the hall sensor. Nope, wires seem in good shape. Brake pads, tires, and fluid flush... that's probably not keeping it from starting. Need to replace the fuel filter...maybe it's the fuel pump. After removing the pump/filter plate I noticed the hose between them had slipped off. Did I do that while pulling it out? I didn't think so, but replaced the filter and put new clamps on everything. Put it back together and - voila! She runs. Thanks again for all the input and advice.
    Glad you got it up and running but sorry I didn’t see this earlier. Blown off connections in the tank or split U-hoses happen all the time—happened to me. Between this forum and a few others, it seems like there’s one a month. And in most cases (as in my own) there is some fuel coming out the injectors.

    When there’s a bike that won’t start but turns over and has spark, and the fuel pump hums at key on, one of the first things to check is fuel flow in the return line. It can be as simple as: disconnect the return QD, press in the check valve on the half of the QD connected to the fuel distributor (plastic pipe side) and switch the key on. You should get a surge of fuel, which means there is enough fuel and pressure to open the fuel pressure regulator and start the bike. In your case this simple test would have pointed to something in the tank right away.

    To keep tabs on the health of everything in the tank, follow this procedure which takes just a few minutes once you’ve built a return flow test hose. No fuel pressure gauge needed: https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...iagnostic-Tool
    Last edited by roger 04 rt; 07-28-2019 at 11:52 AM.

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