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Thread: 2003 K1200GT Temperature reading request for other K1200 2000-2004 bikes

  1. #1
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    2003 K1200GT Temperature reading request for other K1200 2000-2004 bikes

    I have a 2003 K1200GT with 27k miles on it. The gauge keeps reading a bit above the normal marking and did some readings.

    I wondered if a few of you would repeat my tests for comparisons on a similar GT or RS bike.

    Testing details: Bike on center stand idling from cold. Summer temperature here was 90s in the shade. I used a Harbor Frieght $26 Ames model with the factory default Emissivity setting of .95 . Not an expert on emissivity, but that was the factory default. I just pulled the trigger and it read out the digital number.

    I pointed the laser at the radiator top black metal curve both left and right sides. On the left side, just off to the side of the radiator cap. Right side, just on the curve. Reading is much different pointing to the hose, so stick to the black curved area.

    Instrument was resting on the plastic panels about 3 inches above the radiator.

    More definition: “midpoint” I am calling the normal center marking on the gauge. “3/4” is half way between the center marking and Red line. Red line is the Red line area.

    Per Clymer manual has “normal operating temps of 190F - 220F. Fans on at 221F and overheated light at 239F.

    My results to compare:

    Cold, reading was 90F both left and right sides. Gauge, no reading.
    After warm up idling - Left 200F, right 190F. Gauge at midpoint.
    Guage hits 3/4point - Left 220f, right 218F. Gauge at 3/4point.
    Fan on - Fans turn on with left side 224F, right 221F. Gauge 3/4 point.
    Fans on 3+ mins - Left 215, Right 205F. Gauge dropping below 3/4 point but not midpoint yet.

    Clymer spec and this infrared thermometer is telling me the bike is running in a normal temp range of 190 to 220 although the gauge is saying the bike is running on the hot side at the 3/4point. I wish the 220F on my bike was showing the midpoint on the gauge. For me, not happening.

    Let me know how your bike is showing. Much appreciaed.
    2003 K1200GT

  2. #2
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    All of the RS/GT bikes of that vintage were at “normal” temp when the needle was somewhat above the white centermark. In stop and go traffic on a hot day the gauge would climb further, getting close to the red zone before the fans would kick in and cool the bike while heating the rider. In cold weather the gauge would read at or below the midline under normal riding use. It’s just the nature of these machines.

    There are a couple things to check, tho. First, let the bike idle while parked until the fans kick in, and verify that both are working. Secondly, check the radiators at every 12k service to make sure they aren’t packed full of bugs and such. And thirdly, replace the radiator pressure cap every few years as they do go slack over time. The caps are not overly expensive. And lastly, of course make sure the coolant level is correct in the catch tank and with a 50-50 mixture of the correct BMW coolant.

    My GT pulls a sidecar with two people and camping gear. Sometimes the needle is up, sometimes down, but never in the red when maintained as mentioned above. As to the exact temp it’s running—I don’t know and really don’t need to know; I just need to know that it’s not overheating.

    Best,
    DeVern
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST — 1984 R80 G/S PD — 1993 R100GS — 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C — 2010 K1300GT
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  3. #3
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    My bike reaches 190 at the midpoint. It is barely warmed up. With the range of 190-220, 215F would be the proper normal midpoint. The gauge is messed up.

    I am wondering if other guys have the same reading. If everyone has the same 190F reading at midpoint, my chances of fixing this gauge are slim. Good to know though.

    I already did the coolant level check and using the proper 50-50 premixed coolant, no air. Radiator fins are clean and no leaks or loss of fluid.

    Parts changed or to change:

    1- Radiator cap changed ($20) No difference it temperature readings. Pressure seems to be the same as before and working.

    2- Thermostat not yet changed but with the Left/Right radiator temps being the same, odds are it won’t help. Mine is working ok as-is. This task is harder than expected to perform, so I will hold off on this. Everything I read is to leave it alone. I respect their opinions as correct thinking.

    3- Coolant temperature sensor ($27 part 62161459270) is an easy change. Not sure if that will help the gauge. If other guys are 190F at midpoint, Probably not a fix.

    4- Temperature sensor ($100 part 17111464985) is attached to the back of the engine block. Kirk Johnson has a video on replacing it. Might be a common problem. But again, if other guys are 190F at midpoint, Probably not a fix.

    My K1200GT is running great. Very satisfied and willing to keep polishing it up by replacing parts as needed. With the tempertature readings, I now know it just warmed up (190F) when at the midpoint. Go ahead and let her run. Hitting the 3/4point, the fans are cooling it down below 220F. The gauge is just messed up, nothing to worry about, well less stressful.

    Anyway, I am still interested if other K!200 are reading 190F at the midpoint.

    Thanks for the feedback. John
    2003 K1200GT

  4. #4
    My advice. Understand that gauges are relative and need to be used to observe changes and not to be seen as absolutes. As an aside, ditto this double or triple for tire pressure monitor systems.

    1. Look for changes in behavior, not numbers.

    2. Once a year spray the radiator with hydrogen peroxide and spray with hose water repeatedly to get rid of insulating bug guts and crud on the radiator fins. DO NOT use a pressure washer unless you wish to buy a new radiator.)

    3. Use quality coolant at the correct proportions and change per recommendations.

    (I put almost 400,000 miles on a K75 and the inside of the radiator was pristine after always using quality coolant. All of the crud was on the outside.)

    4. Ride the thing until unusual things happen.
    Paul Glaves - "Big Bend", Texas U.S.A
    "The greatest challenge to any thinker is stating the problem in a way that will allow a solution." - Bertrand Russell
    http://web.bigbend.net/~glaves/

  5. #5
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    As said by others, look for a change in your bikes characteristics, not absolute numbers.

    My K-RS typically reads just below the mid-mark on the gauge, but I live in usually cool New England. Riding in traffic (a car in front of me) will automatically heat it up to just above the mid-point. Stop-and-go riding will get it up to 3/4 hot, with the fans coming on shortly there after.

    It has consistently behaved the same way for the ten years I've had the bike, so what those gauge reading translate to in actual temperatures is of no interest to me. It is obviously performing as designed. Should that change I'll get curious.

    BTW, if your interested is prompted by the amount of gauge movement, and its apparent sensitivity, you should know that it is largely a function of the engineering choices that BMW made back then. The more current thinking is to not both the rider/driver with too much unnecessary info. Most current gauges will move little or not at all despite real changes in actual coolant temperature, so long as the system is still operating within its design parameters.

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