Not Charging

1967 R60/2. When I turn the ignition switch on all the lights work except the headlight. Signals, running light, and tail light work. Is this the way it should be? No power to the headlight at that time. I have six plus volts at the battery when switch is off. When I turn it on voltage drops way down. When I start the bike my meter jumps around at very low numbers.

By looking at these pictures does it look like the brushes are too short? Anything look out of order. I'm getting new batteries in my better meter this weekend. So with luck I can get some good data. I went around the block. Headlight worked when I left but not when I returned.
Thanks.

Definitely be sure your meter batteries are good otherwise you're chasing ghosts. Are you sure that the headlight bulb is not blown? With the bike not started, the lights/horn/etc are all powered by the battery. When the engine is running, the generator helps out, but when you come to idle, the generator is not putting out enough so the battery provides power to lights, etc. You probably remember, that you can ride the bike without a battery as the magneto provides the ignition needs. Is it possible the battery is no good? With the bike running and elevated RPM, what voltage do you read at the battery? Should be around 7v.

Here's a picture of my R69S generator. Your brushes do look pretty short. Not sure if the brushes are bottoming out in the holder. That would mean no charging at the battery. Look at the snail springs. They go up and over the side of the holder where there is a slot in the holder. If the brushes get too short, the spring actually begins to rest on the holder which reduces the tension on the brush against the commutator. You can see in my picture that the spring is not contacting the holder...can't quite tell in your pictures.

Ok so there is a conflict. For sure I have NO power to the head lights
when the key is on! Also it looks like it is not charging. So I will get new batteries in the better tester ASAP and report back. That's really why I posted with no real good data. It seems like the headlights should be powered by the key. Unless of course there is some kind of relay that delays that power until the engine is running. Some of the more modern bikes have that feature.

Also it looks like your brushes are a bit longer than mine. I pushed down on each one to make a better contact.

The /2 is not sophisticated enough to have those kinds of relays. According to the manual, pushing the key/nail straight in you should see the green neutral light and the red charge light (engine not running). Turn the key to the right, the headlight should turn on. To the left, the parking light turns on. Does any of that happen? You could pull the lens and reflector to get to the headlight bulb and measure the voltage at the wiring.

Do you have a copy of the Doug Rinckes book:

https://www.snafu.org/restore/uandm_bmw_v1.pdf

This is version 1.0...there is a updated version in color that can be bought from Vech at Benchmark Works.

--- Update --- What did you find when you looked at the snail springs relative to the holder? I tried to blow up your pictures, and I'm pretty sure I can see that the spring is touching the holder.

20774 said:

The /2 is not sophisticated enough to have those kinds of relays. According to the manual, pushing the key/nail straight in you should see the green neutral light and the red charge light (engine not running). Turn the key to the right, the headlight should turn on. To the left, the parking light turns on. Does any of that happen? You could pull the lens and reflector to get to the headlight bulb and measure the voltage at the wiring.

Do you have a copy of the Doug Rinckes book:

https://www.snafu.org/restore/uandm_bmw_v1.pdf

This is version 1.0...there is a updated version in color that can be bought from Vech at Benchmark Works.

--- Update --- What did you find when you looked at the snail springs relative to the holder? I tried to blow up your pictures, and I'm pretty sure I can see that the spring is touching the holder.

Click to expand...

1. I thought the headlight should come on and that's why I asked the question. As I said, all lights come on except for the headlight.
2. I did pull the lens reflector and was able to determine there was NO power to the headlight.
3. I have Doug Rinckes book.
4. You are correct, those brushes look short. But the springs don't exactly stop the brushes. They will be replaced ASAP.
5. BUT, in addition, my cheap meter tells me it is not charging.

My good Simpson multimeter needs batteries. Ha! That's the holdup. So Monday after I use the book to guide me I will have some good data. The conflict is that from what I know now there are two problems. The lights should come on with the switch and it should be charging. So until later, thank you for the help.

You keep mentioning the lights should come on with the switch. Specifically, you have to turn the key in order to get power to the headlight. I run around all the time on my two vintage bikes with the key straight, not turned...my lights are not on. I choose to do this in order to reduce the load on the system. I typically run at odd times during the day when little to no traffic is out. I'm extremely cautious of my "turtle-like" speeds and brakes!!

I understand Kurt. Thanks. Bike shop is closed Monday so that adds to the delay. You see what I mean by two problems? Headlights not working with the battery is not related to not charging. With any luck on Monday my test will show that the brushes are not making good contact. That should solve half of the problem.

With the switch set to either side, I clearly have power to the running light but not to the headlight. My cheap meter reads that voltage well! Thanks for the attention.

Since you have a diagram, possibly you could work backwards from the bulb terminals and find out where the voltage disappears. Could be simply that a wire has come loose from an attachment...wires are held to their terminals in the headlight with screws. Power comes from the handlebar switch, so would have to check that first.

I will be doing that soon. Grand daughter's high school graduation today so work was at a stand still! I'm getting conflicting information while trying to get those brushes ordered. Max says 75 watt generator takes a 12-31 8 002 310. 60 watt takes 12-31 8 002 106. Bobs gives me a different number. OEM parts gives me the 310 number as well as Klassic Cycle Stuff.

1967 R60/2 Vin 1810594 Build 9/13/1966. Any help on which generator I have?

Wait!!! LJ/CGE60/61700R5 dynamo is 60 watts. Sometimes google comes in handy. OK. I'm going with Max.
Until tomorrow. Adios.

Ordered!!

Faulty Handlebar Switch

Charging? Either my cheap meter couldn't read the pulsing at the battery or when I pushed the brushes down on the armature to make a good contact that did the trick. Measures good continuity from brush to brush. Either way I will have new brushes in three to five days from Max BMW. The Simpson meter verified proper charging.

The handlebar switch is in need of repair or replacement. I need to look into it. Flicking back and forth finally got the headlights to come on. There are dead spots in some positions.

Thanks for all your help. That was almost fun! Ha!