2006 R1200RT Electrical Probem

Hi everyone! Well, it's been a good 5 years since I've been on the forum (back at the beginning of the 2010s I restored a 1978 100/7 ) and wanted to see if anyone else has this problem.
1) The battery is good: 13V, and it get's pulled down to random voltages (7V, 3V, 5.6V, etc, etc) when I turn the key on.
2) The anti-lock pump isn't spooling up, it's more like it's whining like it doesn't wanna work (waaa!) If you turn up the volume you can hear it in the background.
3) 48,000 miles, and I just finished two trips to work, and it was running like a champ.
Anyway, good to be back on the forum!
K

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fWne2Ja5sc8

Ok...let’s start with something simple:

1. CHECK THE GROUND ON THE BATTERY... make sure both the positive and negative terminals are good and snug on the battery, and your frame ground is secure as well.

2. You say the battery is OK...have you load tested it? Any battery shop can do that for you. Simple voltage test is not always an indication you have a good battery.



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Simple is best! Both connections on the battery are good: no corrosion but I took them off and sandpapered down to raw metal just in case. I just finished taking off all the furniture last night, so I'll start with the negative ground: I remember that nice little factoid back when I did that rebuild on the /7! I also remember that I had a tendency to go full tear down/replace when I couldn't figure something out, so the negative ground is a great place to start. Would that explain why you see random voltage at the battery though when you turn the key? (I put a meter on the battery when the key is turned off, and it says 13V. I turn the key on, and the meter gets squirrely, showing 3V, 7.8V, 5V, just a random level.. I was thinking that means a short somewhere.
Thanks for responding. The forum has saved me (and a lot of us) so much time and $$. I appreciate it. K

Random voltage levels MIGHT be an intermittent (or high-resistance) connection...the fact that everything appears to be affected and not just ONE module throwing a problem make me tend to think a bad ground, bad power (positive) bus connection or insufficient battery amps are the most likely sources.

Once more, load-testing the battery is still a box to check off...

It could also be something shorting the battery to ground and the ECU or body control modules (BMS-K and ZFE) tripping on overload...

Do you have a GS-911 you can connect (connect it AFTER the bike goes thru the gyrations in the video) so you could read error codes?


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Another thought...does your bike have the DWA/RDC module?
(Alarm and/or tire pressure monitor)...just curious, have an idea.


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kmkahuna said:

1) The battery is good: 13V, and it get's pulled down to random voltages (7V, 3V, 5.6V, etc, etc) when I turn the key on.

Click to expand...

I vote Battery no good. A good battery that gets pulled down to half it’s voltage the moment the circuit is completed = fire .........well maybe not fire but you should be able to toast bread on the wires.
Have the battery tested if you can. You could also take the battery out of the circuit and use jumper cables off your car to run the bike.
Let us know how you make out.
OM

Thanks for all the advice guys: I pulled the battery and will have it checked. I don't have the test computer, but now that the years have gone by, It's time to invest in one.

And the winner is....

Load check the battery!
Here is something I have never seen before: A YUASA Super sealed MF shows 13 volts before the key is turned on. After power is applied, it goes squirrely.
The shop load tested it and it ends up at 10.1 volts every test. Starts at 13, ends at 10.1 or so... so, two cells are shorting out maybe?
Anyway, easiest is best: thank you everyone for helping out: saved me time and money as usual.
Just weird isn't it? The battery can't be more than 2 years old either...
K

Glad you found the problem!

So...have to ask...was this Yuasa on a battery tender when not being used regularly? I put harnesses on all my bikes and have a Deltran multi-channel charger, seem to get 4+ years out of mine.


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