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Thread: 04 1150 GS loses all electric

  1. #1

    04 1150 GS loses all electric

    I have a new (to me) 04 1150 GS. 54k miles. It has an added on Garmin Zumo and Piaa lights. I have had 2 occasions where the bike shuts down (in my driveway). No electric. even down to the clock. A few minutes later the clock starts up and the bike can run again, all the electric pieces work. I have checked the battery post terminals and they are tight. The bike has a lithium battery. thoughts?

  2. #2
    Registered User dieselyoda's Avatar
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    Grounds, any one or all of them.
    1997 R1100RT, 1981 KZ 440 LTD, R80RT, R90/6 sidecar, K1100RS,1983 K100RS (Cafe now)

    “The major civilizing force in the world is not religion, it is sex.”

  3. #3
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Looking for clues first... very necessary in any troubleshooting task, especially "remotely"...

    When you say the clock is included in the outage, does this include the entire RID (Rider Information Display), the temperature and fuel indicators? A "yes" points to a "primary" +12 issue.

    Can you connect a voltmeter directly across the battery and leave it there, in a visible place, while you go for a ride? Then when it dies, if the voltmeter drops, that would point to a bad battery, internally either an open or short.

    If that's fruitless, connect the voltmeter in a totally different place, between a red wire (+12) and any other actual ground; that may start you on the actual path; try a few different places to narrow it down further.

    Possibly the voltage is not going to zero; if it's dropping below the point that the computer can run the bike, it can still look like there's nothing, but you'd still need to narrow down where either a break or a short exists.

    Jiggle any wire harness you can reach, especially the bundle that leads down to the starter area (a bad starter or starter relay can cause melted wiring inside the harness where you can't see it unless you cut it open), and also physically scrutinize any wire you can see.

    Do you have the schematic diagram? Get it from the MacPac's website (and thanks again to Doug R for making it easy to read!).

  4. #4
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    I'd load test that lithium battery and check into it's specifications.

    I'm not a fan of lithium batteries in oilheads. The weight savings do not justify the expense for non race bikes IMO.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    Looking for clues first... very necessary in any troubleshooting task, especially "remotely"...

    When you say the clock is included in the outage, does this include the entire RID (Rider Information Display), the temperature and fuel indicators? A "yes" points to a "primary" +12 issue.

    Can you connect a voltmeter directly across the battery and leave it there, in a visible place, while you go for a ride? Then when it dies, if the voltmeter drops, that would point to a bad battery, internally either an open or short.

    If that's fruitless, connect the voltmeter in a totally different place, between a red wire (+12) and any other actual ground; that may start you on the actual path; try a few different places to narrow it down further.

    Possibly the voltage is not going to zero; if it's dropping below the point that the computer can run the bike, it can still look like there's nothing, but you'd still need to narrow down where either a break or a short exists.

    Jiggle any wire harness you can reach, especially the bundle that leads down to the starter area (a bad starter or starter relay can cause melted wiring inside the harness where you can't see it unless you cut it open), and also physically scrutinize any wire you can see.

    Do you have the schematic diagram? Get it from the MacPac's website (and thanks again to Doug R for making it easy to read!).
    Thanks for the info. Yes all the electrics are out. I will check into this over the weekend.

  6. #6
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    This is a LiFePo4 battery? IMHO this sounds suspiciously like an intermittent open on an internal bus connection in the battery.

    Best,
    DG
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST — 1984 R80 G/S-PD — 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C — 2010 K1300GT — 2018 R1200GS
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by GTRider View Post
    This is a LiFePo4 battery? IMHO this sounds suspiciously like an intermittent open on an internal bus connection in the battery.

    Best,
    DG
    yes that is the battery. As I am not familiar with LiFePo4 batteries is there anything that I can do to remedy this or test for it?

  8. #8
    Registered User GTRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pschretlen View Post
    yes that is the battery. As I am not familiar with LiFePo4 batteries is there anything that I can do to remedy this or test for it?
    I personally don’t know of a way to test it other than substituting a known good battery and see if the problem still presents.

    Best,
    DG
    DGerber
    1983 R80ST — 1984 R80 G/S-PD — 2004 K1200GT w/Hannigan S/C — 2010 K1300GT — 2018 R1200GS
    BMWMOA#52184, AMA#271542, IBA#138

  9. #9
    Left Coast Rider
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    Quote Originally Posted by pschretlen View Post
    yes that is the battery. As I am not familiar with LiFePo4 batteries is there anything that I can do to remedy this or test for it?
    Have you followed up on the previous suggestions? Please post progress on those before introducing other variables. Follow a process of elimination to find your problem.

  10. #10
    Day Dreaming ... happy wanderer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pschretlen View Post
    yes that is the battery. As I am not familiar with LiFePo4 batteries is there anything that I can do to remedy this or test for it?
    Answered in Post #4. Load test the battery. Unless you have the gear to discharge and recharge it while logging amps and volts, no, there is no other way to test the battery.
    MJM - BeeCeeBeemers Motorcycle Club Vancouver B.C.
    '81 R80G/S, '82 R100RS, '00 R1100RT

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Pauls1150 View Post
    Looking for clues first... very necessary in any troubleshooting task, especially "remotely"...

    When you say the clock is included in the outage, does this include the entire RID (Rider Information Display), the temperature and fuel indicators? A "yes" points to a "primary" +12 issue.

    Can you connect a voltmeter directly across the battery and leave it there, in a visible place, while you go for a ride? Then when it dies, if the voltmeter drops, that would point to a bad battery, internally either an open or short.

    If that's fruitless, connect the voltmeter in a totally different place, between a red wire (+12) and any other actual ground; that may start you on the actual path; try a few different places to narrow it down further.

    Possibly the voltage is not going to zero; if it's dropping below the point that the computer can run the bike, it can still look like there's nothing, but you'd still need to narrow down where either a break or a short exists.

    Jiggle any wire harness you can reach, especially the bundle that leads down to the starter area (a bad starter or starter relay can cause melted wiring inside the harness where you can't see it unless you cut it open), and also physically scrutinize any wire you can see.

    Do you have the schematic diagram? Get it from the MacPac's website (and thanks again to Doug R for making it easy to read!).
    MacPac website?? Please elaborate and thanks

  12. #12
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    https://www.mac-pac.org/ Electrical diagrams link near the bottom, enjoy!

  13. #13

    macpac

    Thanks for the link. AND I have been riding the bike most of the week without an electrical shutdown. Still waiting.

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