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Thread: Coolant replacement

  1. #31
    Old Rider - OK Mechanic 105258's Avatar
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    Coolant Replacement

    Easy Peesy. I do this every two years and it is a relatively simple process, and requires no special tools, but requires two small crush washers for the blead plugs (pay attention to the torque specs on these plugs as they are not the same). There is a good procedure in the Haynes manual. The only shortcut is that both Haynes and BMW have you disconnect the line from the over flow tank to the radiator to drain the tank (not easy). There is a single bolt in the center of the tank that can be removed and simply turn the tank over to drain it. Once you have everything full then without replacing the body panels take it for a short ride 3 to 4 miles then return home and top up the fluid. Let it cool for a few minutes before you open the radiator cap. This is easier than heating it up in the shop to get the thermostat to open. Have fun !
    David Nicholls
    Teulon Manitoba - Canada

    2015 R1200GSA-LC

  2. #32
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    After using the vacuum method to change the coolant (this is the way the BMW service manual suggests)...

    Looking at the coolant flow diagram, I'm not 100% convinced the vacuum method is necessary for the GS/A. I can't see where an air bubble will be trapped that can't be pushed out. Obviously the rads are higher than the engine so the air bubble will travel to the top of the rad.

    R1200GS_cutaway_cooling.jpg
    2015 GSA

  3. #33
    R1100RT,K75,Burgman650 chrismiii's Avatar
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    Coolant replacement - manifold?

    Quote Originally Posted by craigjv4 View Post
    1. Drain the cooling system as described in the service manual.
    2. Close the left valve. Open the right valve. Insert the correct tube (labeled in pic) in the gallon jug of coolant which is hung above the bike. I hung it from the door opener.
    3. Use the Mityvac to suck the coolant into the tube from the rad filler/plug end. Close the right valve when full.
    4. Push the soft rubber plug into the rad filler neck. The size of this plug sealed against the flat bottom of the neck so I did not have to pinch-off the overflow hose.
    5. Connect the Mityvac to the correct tube (labeled) and open the left valve.
    6. Operate the Mityvac to pull a vacuum on the cooling circuit. Close the left valve and let the system sit for a bit to assure the vacuum holds.
    7. I held the plug with one hand while operating the Mityvac to keep the plug seated until the vacuum took over. I later learned this was unnecessary but it couldn't hurt to hold it tight against the neck.
    8. Slowly open the right valve and the coolant will be sucked into the circuit.
    9. Let it run until the coolant stops flowing.
    10. Drink beer
    11. As it says in the BMW manual... you may have to top up the coolant after removing the plug. I had to add maybe an ounce.

    I should have trimmed up the length of my tubes to better fit where the valve manifold was located by the right-side bar grip but this is how I cobbled it together this morning and I didn't feel like changing it. A #6.5 or #7 rubber plug may fit easier but then you'll probably have to plug the rad overflow line. This is a #6 plug actually inserted upside down; but this is the plug I had. You'll find these plugs at any decent homebrew shop. My tubes were so snug fitting on the barbs, I only needed one hose clamp.




    Attachment 77712


    hOW AND WHERE TO GET THAT LITTLE MANIFOLD YOU SHOW?

  4. #34
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    More Detail ...

    Quote Originally Posted by 105258 View Post
    Easy Peesy. I do this every two years and it is a relatively simple process, and requires no special tools, but requires two small crush washers for the blead plugs (pay attention to the torque specs on these plugs as they are not the same). There is a good procedure in the Haynes manual. The only shortcut is that both Haynes and BMW have you disconnect the line from the over flow tank to the radiator to drain the tank (not easy). There is a single bolt in the center of the tank that can be removed and simply turn the tank over to drain it. Once you have everything full then without replacing the body panels take it for a short ride 3 to 4 miles then return home and top up the fluid. Let it cool for a few minutes before you open the radiator cap. This is easier than heating it up in the shop to get the thermostat to open. Have fun !
    Can you show where those bleed plugs are on the engine?
    Bob
    2014 R1200RT

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobs_one View Post
    Can you show where those bleed plugs are on the engine?
    I'm guessing he means the two drain plugs; not bleed plugs. A drain plug at the underside of each head.
    2015 GSA

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigjv4 View Post
    I used my hand pump Mityvac, a soft rubber stopper #6 size, a few hoses, and an old CO2 kegerator distribution manifold I had from when I was a homebrewer. Just stuff I had laying around.

    hOW AND WHERE TO GET THAT LITTLE MANIFOLD YOU SHOW?



    It's a kegerator CO2 manifold to connect two kegs to one CO2 bottle. It's just something I had in a "junk" box. You can find them in any homebrewing shop or Amazon or probably used on Fleabay.
    2015 GSA

  7. #37
    Registered User LFarling's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by craigjv4 View Post
    I'm guessing he means the two drain plugs; not bleed plugs. A drain plug at the underside of each head.
    I think it is what he means also.

    Looking at the diagram it makes sense.

    I have another year or two so plenty will try but I think I would clean my oil drain pan, open the radiator cap and filler cap, drop the drain plugs, see how much came out, and fill as was said, run as said, cool off as said, fill radiator. Check fill level every ride to see if it does burp, you can catch it and fill the overflow.
    Lee
    2017.5 R 1200 GSW

  8. #38
    Registered User alegerlotz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LFarling View Post
    I think it is what he means also.

    Looking at the diagram it makes sense.

    I have another year or two so plenty will try but I think I would clean my oil drain pan, open the radiator cap and filler cap, drop the drain plugs, see how much came out, and fill as was said, run as said, cool off as said, fill radiator. Check fill level every ride to see if it does burp, you can catch it and fill the overflow.
    I twisty canyon road with some elevation change should make quick work of any air pockets, I would think...
    2016 R1200RT
    2007 KTM 450 XC-W (10/17 - 5/18)
    2005 R1200RT (2/2015 - 12/2016)
    1985 Yamaha XJ 700 Maxim (7/1989 - 9/1991)

  9. #39
    Old Rider - OK Mechanic 105258's Avatar
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    Sorry they are correctly called drain plugs

    Quote Originally Posted by bobs_one View Post
    Can you show where those bleed plugs are on the engine?
    My bad, they are drain plug not bleed plugs.
    David Nicholls
    Teulon Manitoba - Canada

    2015 R1200GSA-LC

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