2003 K1200GT - Clutch line change to steel

I am thinking of replacing my clutch line to be a steel braided. Can I get to both ends without stripping down all the rear end parts? Top banjo at the handlebar is easy. The clutch connection seems tricky.

The only video's I see are guys stripping their bike down to remove the clutch plates. They are pulling off the rear wheel, final drive, basically everything to the clutch.

What is the general steps for the 2003 K1200GT to reach the bottom connection?

Advice is welcome including "stop messing with your bike and just ride".

jrmull said:

I am thinking of replacing my clutch line to be a steel braided. Can I get to both ends without stripping down all the rear end parts? Top banjo at the handlebar is easy. The clutch connection seems tricky.

The only video's I see are guys stripping their bike down to remove the clutch plates. They are pulling off the rear wheel, final drive, basically everything to the clutch.

What is the general steps for the 2003 K1200GT to reach the bottom connection?

Advice is welcome including "stop messing with your bike and just ride".

Click to expand...

Hi,

I actually just did this on my 98 K12RS which is virtually identical to your GT. You cannot replace the clutch line without removing:
1. Rear Wheel
2. Rear Drive
3. Rear Swing arm

Then you will have access to the top of the slave cylinder.
I highly recommend you get a Clymer manual as it clearly describes how to remove and install both the rear drive and swing arm.
Add new crush washers upon re-assembly.


Good Luck

jrmull said:

I am thinking of replacing my clutch line to be a steel braided. Can I get to both ends without stripping down all the rear end parts? Top banjo at the handlebar is easy. The clutch connection seems tricky.

The only video's I see are guys stripping their bike down to remove the clutch plates. They are pulling off the rear wheel, final drive, basically everything to the clutch.

What is the general steps for the 2003 K1200GT to reach the bottom connection?

Advice is welcome including "stop messing with your bike and just ride".

Click to expand...

I get the advantages of steel braided lines for brakes, but other than concerns about the age of your clutch line, is there something else you are trying to achieve? I guess I'm thinking there wouldn't be much difference - if any - in feel since this is a fairly low pressure circuit.

I appreciate the feedback. I thought the same that replacing the clutch line required a large amount to rear end parts to remove. You confirmed a guy can't just sneak a wrench up there.

So excellent, I will skip the replacement unless the rubber one blows out or I have some other major clutch work being done. For the moment, the bike is running well. I don't see fatigue or a breakdown on the rubber line. My K1200GT 2003 has 27k miles on it. Stored in the garage.

What started me on the steel lines was that a prior owner added a 60mm riser pushing the handlebars forward. It caused the brake line on the right side to crimp on a left turn or sitting on the stand full to lock. I wanted to change the riser to an 80mm for a smig more toward to me. So far, I haven't changed to 60 to an 80mm length but it is possible now. Not really sure if the $200 cost for the extra inch is worth it, either. It's not a cruiser bike.

I replaced the brake lines and successfully did all the brake fluid bleeds. That was quite an effort for a newbie. But got it done. Another posting on this forum a couple weeks ago shows how I got into trouble with too much air being added. Anyway, done now and bike riding well.

To finish all the rubber line replacements, the final line was the clutch. Both the new and old are black in color so no-one will notice anyway. I will skip the clutch line unless there is a need to pull off the rear end.


Thanks for the advise.