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Critical - 2010 K13GT fuel pump and fuel level problems

capricorn54

New member
This may be lengthy so you may wanna grab an appropriate beverage, kick back and enjoy the ride. At the end of last year I could not start my K1300GT and I noticed that my fuel pump did not make the normal whine prior to starting. After consultation with my local BMW shop, I replaced my fuel pump - what an illuminating experience this was. I wanted to test the electrics before filling the tank with fuel so I moved the Kill switch to run after turning the ignition on and did not hear any sound from the bowels of the empty fuel tank, this was a sad moment. I repeated the test several times with the same result. I moved on to the fuel level sender - made up a nifty fuel level sender float arm picker upper and noted that the fuel level display did not indicate any change in the fuel level as I raised the sender float, although I did see the flashing fuel pump icon when the sender float was fully extended to the empty tank level. I need some technical help and guidance to help me resolve these problems.

I now know 100% more about the K1300GT than before I began this adventure, but my knowledge is woefully inadequate in way of solving these problems. I know that this BMW uses CAN bus for electrical power and controls, so there is no fuse panel to check for a faulty fuse. I have the latest updates to the BMW Motorrad K Models K4x repair manuals, but the manual is silent in way of electrical diagrams, schematics, sequence of operations and troubleshooting diagnostics. Where can I find the BMW electrical documentation for this bike? What is my next move here to get these problems solved?
:scratch :scratch
 
Did you T-Shoot the FPC (triangle module) on fuel pump plate? Your model has the newer black anodized unit and not a failure point the silver ones were. BurnsMoto made a bypass jumper you could plug into power outlet and the two pin connector under the module to get down the road, but the pump continues running.

The pump will only cycle with key for a second or two and the sidestand up as well ( going from old memory on the sidestand)
 
I pulled the fuel pump module and had a look at the connector, it was plugged in. I have the bike up on the center stand, do you think this affects the fuel pump operation?
 
The fuel quantity display is usually damped by the gauge electronics so as not to move erratically due to fuel sloshing. Thus, it may not respond instantly to raising or lowering the float. Try raising the float and holding it up for several seconds, or perhaps even longer. On bikes with the fuel strip, the system only checks for fuel quantity every 30 seconds.

This is a minor point, but it's one that has many people confused. The CAN data bus doesn't provide electrical power; it simply sends ones and zeroes from one control unit to another.
 
I pulled the fuel pump module and had a look at the connector, it was plugged in. I have the bike up on the center stand, do you think this affects the fuel pump operation?

Center stand doesn't effect running. I would back up and try to bench test pump with a 12v source to the two pin connector under the FPC module...hopefully not having to remove the pump itself to recheck connectors.
 
Thanks guys for the info. Let me get back on it and perform a more thorough verification of the pump and fuel level indicator.

My understanding of CAN bus is that it provides the supervisory function that limits current. If this is not correct then what does provide overcurrent protection on the K1300GT?
 
Resolved - 2010 K13GT fuel pump and fuel level problems

What I found with this repair is that the original BMW fuel pump, when initially cycled at startup, made a noticeable whining sound. The new fuel pump I installed from Quantum does not make any detectable sound when initially cycled at startup. The fuel level indication problem turned out to be not a problem. With this bike, the fuel level does not indicate until the engine has started, although you can make the out of fuel flashing icon function when statically testing the fuel level float operation when the engine is off.

While I had the fuel pump assembly removed from the fuel tank I back flushed the permanent filter with a mixture of Berryman B-12 Chem Tool and premium non-ethanol fuel. I used the fuel siphon pump that I originally used to pump the fuel tank down, just reversed the flow through the filter and pumped till the color of the discharged flush matched the color of the clean flush mixture.

My local shop wanted in the neighborhood of $1,000.00 to replace the fuel pump assembly, parts and labor. I would have had to pay an additional charge to get the bike to the shop. My total cost for parts and shop supplies is less than $100.00. The lessons I learned by completing this repair myself are invaluable.

Thanks to henzilla and kthutchinson for their knowledge and help.
 
Good to hear you're fixed up.

Could one of the moderators merge this post into the original Thread?
 
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