'94 K75 Seat Build

I have this stock BMW seat pan I want to set up on my 'low' mount hardware. What's a good way to remove the rivets that hold on the cover and foam?
Drill them out or what?
In the front I want to extend the pan to meet the modified side cover. Also, to give enough coverage over the battery and the ignition unit on the right side. The lower sides in the front won't be load bearing. I'm looking to buy a material that I will rivet and glue to the stock pan. What material and thickness could work?
This is the Corbin I have the extends to the tank and modified side covers. I don't want to mod the Corbin. I'll probably end up selling it, once a replacement is finished.

The short answer is it won't fit without extensive modifications to the pan.

That said, yes you drill out the rivets to remove a cover.

Good for you to be building your own and wanting to learn “how to’s”.

The molded material that BMW uses works basically fine and would be nice if you could buy in blocks.

I’m interested in building a seat also and hope you get some tips. There are bound to be some members that build their own. And hopefully at least one willing to give advice.

Usually people with the knowledge of something will be willing to help people that want to learn.

Keep us posted and GOOD LUCK.

Charlie

This K75 was already converted to take the unhinged ‘sliding seat’. As pictured, the Corbin has the two slots in the rear and a steel hook bolted into the front of the pan. The hook latch has a shaft going to the keyed lever on the side of the upper sub frame. Rotating the lever unlatches the front of the seat and lets you slide the seat forward and down for removing it.
My plan is to cut slots for the rear hooks. Next I will lay Saran Wrap across the top of the bike. Lay clay on that, slide the seat into position and see how close the front is to the latch. If necessary, the bolted front hook will be positioned to fit into the latch. Also, I’ll know if the pan is well seated onto the frame rails. I figure the latch should not be load bearing.
The side panels were modded as well. The big rubber bumper is long gone. The Corbin fits. It is 27” rear to front. At the front sides, the seat pan drops down to meet the abbreviated side panels and helps provide the protection the side panel did. I don’t want water to splash too easily on the (left side) battery and the (right side) ignition unit. My ‘new’ seat will have to have the same protective coverage.
After the seat pan is completed, I’ll take it to John Longo in Rockville, MD for finishing to match me.

Reply

Bro i think an extensive modifications to the pan is needed to adjust in better way..
try it hope you fit that ...

Can't say I actually understand what it is you are trying to accomplish, but if you are looking to build a seat pan, why not use the same material BMW uses?
Since you are looking to glue and rivet material to your pan, maybe start with a donor pan that you cut up and piece it into the existing one you want to modify.
Existing pans can be bought cheaply as part of old, worn-out seats sold online.

JeffDiCarlo said:

Can't say I actually understand what it is you are trying to accomplish, but if you are looking to build a seat pan, why not use the same material BMW uses?
Since you are looking to glue and rivet material to your pan, maybe start with a donor pan that you cut up and piece it into the existing one you want to modify.
Existing pans can be bought cheaply as part of old, worn-out seats sold online.

Click to expand...

"I have this stock BMW seat pan I want to set up on my 'low' mount hardware. What's a good way to remove the rivets that hold on the cover and foam?
Drill them out or what?"

The question was, what's the way to remove the rivets. Most other seats are stapled through the cover and into the plastic seat pan. Rivets are new to me. The answer that was posted said to drill out the rivets.

The photo of the rivets is from a seat that fits well into the frame and tank. I will be adding the hook holes and the steel loop in front of that seat. The latch and hooks are already on my K75.
Bill

Bill,

If a bit of the "stem" of the rivit remains in the middle of the rivit, take a pin punch and knock it in deeper. Then the drill bit will center on the hole in the rivit. Corbin uses 3/16" rivits so use a 3/16" drill bit. Drill carefully until the head pops off. If the rivit starts spinning in the seaf, drill at a slight angle to stop the spinning. Once the head is off you can remove the cover. Then you can knock the remanants deeper into the seat. If you want, you probably can get those out by pealing back the foam from the edge of the pan, or you can just leave them.


PS. I'll get your city bags out to you when I get back from the 49er Rally (probably Tuesday).