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Thread: Add on Fuse panel

  1. #1
    John. jstrube's Avatar
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    Add on Fuse panel

    Looking to add a fuse panel to my 2015 RT. Is there one people are finding works well? I need to attach my heated jacket, tank bag plug, and charge cord, as well as a radar detector.

    I think I had a Blue Sea on my last bike.

    Is there one that works well that has a relay? I don't want to spend a fortune.

    I am mostly worried about the current required by the heated gear.

    Thanks!
    John.

  2. #2
    Watch This!!! junkjohn's Avatar
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    Check out www.fuzeblocks.com Nice Mustang I have a 64.5 resto mod.
    John Simonds
    2017 R 1200 GS Adventure
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    If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is.

  3. #3
    Fortis Fortuna Adiuvat Omega Man's Avatar
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    This Best of Forum May be of interest-

    https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread...r-Distribution

    OM
    "You can do good or you can do well. Sooner or later they make you choose." MI5
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  4. #4
    John. jstrube's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by junkjohn View Post
    Check out www.fuzeblocks.com Nice Mustang I have a 64.5 resto mod.
    I've had it since 84! It is definitely a restomod. EFI, 5 speed, etc...

    I saw that fuseblock, was worried about it working for my heated gear. I believe my Powerlet gear takes a 15A fuse...
    John.

  5. #5
    You may not need an old-fashion fuze block. Maybe you should consider going to a HEXezCAN module.

    https://www.hexezcan.com/

    https://www.twistedthrottle.com/hex-...-r1200rt-14-18

    You can wire up all of the add-ons that you mentioned and still utilize the no-fuze CAN BUS system. The HEXezCAN also allows you to do much much more. Read about it.

    I have all of the accessories (and more) that you mentioned on my '16 GS. The ezCAN works VERY well for me. Very simple too. I suggest going direct to battery with the heated gear using the heated gear wiring pigtail(s), though.

    .

  6. #6
    SURVIVOR akbeemer's Avatar
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    I also recomend the Hex ezCAN. Uses your existing switches to contro accessories and requires no relays or additional switches. Fewer wires and the device is 1/4 the size of most fuse blocks. If you do decide to use a fuse block, then the Fuze Block brand is a very good choice with its internal relay.
    Kevin
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  7. #7
    John. jstrube's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by leafman60 View Post
    You may not need an old-fashion fuze block. Maybe you should consider going to a HEXezCAN module.

    https://www.hexezcan.com/

    https://www.twistedthrottle.com/hex-...-r1200rt-14-18

    You can wire up all of the add-ons that you mentioned and still utilize the no-fuze CAN BUS system. The HEXezCAN also allows you to do much much more. Read about it.

    I have all of the accessories (and more) that you mentioned on my '16 GS. The ezCAN works VERY well for me. Very simple too. I suggest going direct to battery with the heated gear using the heated gear wiring pigtail(s), though.

    .
    OK Guys, I need to look deeper into this...

    So it looks like this thing will manage my radar detector, my cell phone charger, but not my heated vest, nor my plug in charge cord. My goal is to minimize connections to the battery.

    I'll check this out, as well as the Can Opener from Clearwater, as I will probably do their lights eventually.
    John.

  8. #8

    fuses

    There is the pdm60 with 6 circuits and 2 that do 15 amps each. I put a power outlet behind the seat on my right. I figure I have to plug the jacket in so where doesn't matter. Plus the powerlet lets me get power from the battery and can charge thru it. The hex/can while it has 4 outlets if you don't use the horn on one circuit you could end up with only three circuits. You can use two for lights and have two more circuits. With it you can dim your lights. Its max is 30 amps. Good luck choosing there are many more choices out there.

  9. #9
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    Just run your heated gear right to the battery with an inline fuse holder. no need to get fancy. If are not on the bike what is the chances you are leaving your heated gear on the bike, hooked up? Slim, I would think. Some of the other, lighter circuits can be connected to the Powerlet circuit. It is good for 10 amps.

    The Hex EasyCan is a great deal, if you really need it.

    I ran a fuse block on my '05 Harley, that was the last time I went that way, three bikes ago. Now I cheat and rob power off other circuits that have the capacity for the extra load.

  10. #10
    Registered User Anyname's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by khafner View Post
    There is the pdm60 with 6 circuits and 2 that do 15 amps each. I put a power outlet behind the seat on my right. I figure I have to plug the jacket in so where doesn't matter. Plus the powerlet lets me get power from the battery and can charge thru it. The hex/can while it has 4 outlets if you don't use the horn on one circuit you could end up with only three circuits. You can use two for lights and have two more circuits. With it you can dim your lights. Its max is 30 amps. Good luck choosing there are many more choices out there.
    +1 on the PDM60. It doesn't need fuses and resets itself after a fault. You can also determine the length of time before a circuit powers up after the ignition goes on. I have mine set to wait 15 seconds before the auxiliary lights go on, that lets me start the bike without he additional load. i think it can also delay power down on a circuit as well.
    BMW R bike rider, horizontally opposed to everything...

  11. #11
    Registered User patm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jstrube View Post
    OK Guys, I need to look deeper into this...

    So it looks like this thing will manage my radar detector, my cell phone charger, but not my heated vest, nor my plug in charge cord. My goal is to minimize connections to the battery.

    I'll check this out, as well as the Can Opener from Clearwater, as I will probably do their lights eventually.
    I've installed this fuse box PC-8 from eastern beaver. https://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/W...PC-8/pc-8.html
    Pat

    Ride Safe!
    '16 RT

  12. #12

    lites

    Be careful with lights. The trend is to go with higher kelvin 6000 and up. Unfortunately the human eye sees best between 4300-5000K. While your brain may "think" the 6000K is brighter it is actually dimmer and your brain has a much harder time seeing movement and being able to concentrate. I wish more lite companies would be up front about this and not sell what the going trend is. This is very important as you age. Thats the reason car manufacturers do lites between 4300-5000K.

  13. #13
    Registered User skibumwi's Avatar
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    +1 on PDM 60 - works great.

  14. #14
    Registered User kunkies's Avatar
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    Although I do not have one (yet), I agree on the HexCam recommendation. As an alternative check out this offering from Aborreal Systems called a Neutrino Blackbox and all accessories you run through it are configurable/adjustable via bluetooth to your smart phone.

    https://www.neutrinoblackbox.com/

  15. #15
    John. jstrube's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by khafner View Post
    Be careful with lights. The trend is to go with higher kelvin 6000 and up. Unfortunately the human eye sees best between 4300-5000K. While your brain may "think" the 6000K is brighter it is actually dimmer and your brain has a much harder time seeing movement and being able to concentrate. I wish more lite companies would be up front about this and not sell what the going trend is. This is very important as you age. Thats the reason car manufacturers do lites between 4300-5000K.
    I plan to go Clearwater. Waiting to see them at the Rally next year!
    John.

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