1996 R1100RT Throttle Cable Slack and Cleaning

I've been working on cleaning the throttle bodies and checking sync. I removed the throttle bodies and looking inside they were really dirty. So I used some good carb cleaner spray and it really cleaned them up. The bike really runs nice and smooth now . The other thing that had been bugging me was there was no slack in the throttle cable, at the throttle, and I believe the manual shows about 1mm of required slack at the cable adjuster, on the Left throttle body. When I looked closely at the throttle cable, on the left throttle body, as it seated in the adjuster I could see it wasn't fully seated. I followed the cable up about 5" and it was ty-wrapped to the frame. I couldn't move the cable to get some slack in it so I cut this ty-wrap and the cable slid fully back into the adjuster. The ty-wrap was overly tight, so the cable had no free play. It now has the 1mm of slack at the adjuster and the throttle now has a little bit of slack. This also explains why occasionally the throttle seemed like it wouldn't completely idle down and needed to be blipped a couple times. Beware of those ty-wraps.

1996 r1100rt with sticky throttle and low idle

I have a 96 with under 9000 miles. The previous owner had it sitting around for many years in a heated garage. I am feeling some stickiness with the throttle. I'm wondering if something is going on with the cable similar to your situation. I am also interested in checking and cleaning the throttle bodies. Are they easy to clean and adjust? I located on adjustment screw on the right side fairing but I dont see the left side.

To answer your question first, yes all the work is relatively easy if you are an average garage mechanic with tools, and have the correct manuals on your bike. But your bike, like mine, is 20 plus years old and really should have a complete tune up and maintenance of the fuel system first. So, I would recommend, the key to a really smooth runner is to first set the valves, then sync and adjust the throttle bodies. The one adjustment screw, you located on the throttle body, brass screw, is only used to set idle speed and is set as part of the throttle body sync process. I would clean the fuel injectors and throttle bodies prior to setting the valves and adjusting the throttle bodies. But... before you do this I would absolutely replace all the rubber fuel lines and fuel filter. Unless someone has done a complete fuel line maintenance in the last couple years you are guaranteed to have brittle, cracking and leaky lines.... Again none of this is difficult but it will take patience and a couple days of your time. All of these subjects are well documented, with pictures and some videos, in this forum. So, if your are like most of us on this forum, you most likely have the skills you just need to dive in. We are all here to assist. Most likely other members will add there thoughts and possibly add some links for you to check out.

You should clean the big brass screws (idle speed) up as well.
Count the turns until seated for each side/record
Unscrew the screws and clean - they will have gunk on them.
Using a Q-tip soaked in cleaner clean the bore and gently blow thru.
Apply a little lithium grease to the O ring and opening of the bore.
Install screws into original positions.
If the bodies have not been balanced, now would be a good time.