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Thread: 2016 GTL Rear Drive Oil Change

  1. #1
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    2016 GTL Rear Drive Oil Change

    A neighbor wants to change the oil in his rear drive, on his 2016 GTL - can anybody point us to either a thread or video that has all of the steps for him? He's good with a wrench, but of course doesn't want to narf anything up.

    Also - As with the R's etc., should 75W-140 be avoided back there, and stick with the 75W (or 80W)-90 GL-5?

    Thanks!

    Paul S

  2. #2
    Dress for fall & avoid it AlanColes's Avatar
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    Paul, my recommendation is to "stick with the 75W (or 80W)-90 GL-5" as identified in the Rider's Manual. I have plenty of 75W-140 GL-5 in my garage but it is used for specific applications that call for it. Too thin or too thick can have unintended consequences. I would not be concerned about using up my 75W-90 in a final drive that calls for the newer 80W-90 but will not use my 75W-140 in anything that calls for a 75/80W-90. Just likely too thick for the design unless things have been modified.

    As for videos, IIRC, there are several available. What I'd suggest is just from what I am personally aware of and haven't watched it (don't have a K-bike) to identify if it is sufficiently detailed, etc., but I have watched several other videos that Chris has made and they were good.

    From "Chris On The Street":
    Part-1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLQ33GxOvgs
    Part-2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NIungMWEWbA
    Not sure which of the two deals with the FD.

    You might also be interested in watching two of my friend Boxflyer's videos (Brad):
    Part-2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1_1gPRA274
    Part-3 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x_lHZPbSJ_s
    This is for the R1200RTW but it gives a good overview of servicing the FD splines.

    Brad has done a number of these, including mine which served as the rehearsal run for Brad's 6-part series on the RTW 12,000 mile service that was shot by Chris.

    Good luck and enjoy.

    One tip, that I don't recall seeing for the oil filter change is that when putting engine oil on the oil filter gasket, I put some of the used oil on it, not the new oil. The thinking is that while both provide a great seal and help with the filter/gasket releasing from the block when being changed next, the used oil us noticeably better at that due to the soot etc., in the oil.

    Also, IIRC, Brad mentions this but I don't know if Chris does - never drain your FD (take out the drain plug) until you have been able to remove the fill plug. Some folks have drained their FD fluid only to find that the fill plug is seized and they now have a lot of work to do before the bike is mobile again.
    Regards, Alan - President BMWONS - BMWMOA/BMWRA/BMWONS/Airheads
    Current: 2019 R1250RT / '06 Ducati ST3s / '91 R100GS / '86 R80RT / '75 R90S / '73 850 & '70 750 Commando Prev: '14 R1200RT / '04 R1150RT / '81 Honda GL1100 / '77 Suzuki GS750 / '73 Norton 850 Commando

  3. #3
    MOA #24991 Pauls1150's Avatar
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    Thanks, Alan!

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    Wish the 1600 had the drain on the bottom like the 1200 wetheads that being said my words of wisdom is remove the filler plug before removing drain, more than one person has drained the oil only to find the filler is frozen or stripped

  5. #5
    Registered User frenchnew's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlanColes View Post

    One tip, that I don't recall seeing for the oil filter change is that when putting engine oil on the oil filter gasket, I put some of the used oil on it, not the new oil. The thinking is that while both provide a great seal and help with the filter/gasket releasing from the block when being changed next, the used oil us noticeably better at that due to the soot etc., in the oil.
    As a technical representative in the filter industry for motorized equipment for over 30 years, none of the filter manufacturer support thew used of "used engine oil" on the filter's gasket prior to installation and they suggest using only new engine oil to prevent the gasket sticking to the surface which will render the removal of the oil filter at the next service more difficult. Follow the instructions on the side of the filter for the installation - eg. Wipe the mounting filter mounting surface on the engine, lube the gasket with new engine oil, thread the filter on the mounting post until the gasket makes contact with the mounting surface, tighten an additional "X" turn (this will vary per manufacturer and application, 3/4 - 1 turn being most popular), fill the engine with oil and start the engine and check for leaks. Do not use grease on the gasket as it has been manufactured to withstand engine oil and their additives. Some of the common greases in the market place can degrade the gasket to the point that it will crack and leak.

    This procedure will always result in a sealed filter gasket to the mounting surface.

    Robert Charron
    2016 K1600GT Cosmic Blue , ABS, ASC, ESAII, TPMS & Alarm, Radio, Sat, GPS Nav V
    Skene IQ150-TS front and IQ 160-TS rear

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